• Hot Dipped Galvanized Steel Wire--0.40mm High Quality System 1
  • Hot Dipped Galvanized Steel Wire--0.40mm High Quality System 2
  • Hot Dipped Galvanized Steel Wire--0.40mm High Quality System 3
Hot Dipped Galvanized Steel Wire--0.40mm High Quality

Hot Dipped Galvanized Steel Wire--0.40mm High Quality

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
5 m.t.
Supply Capability:
10000 m.t./month

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Item specifice

Material:
Galvanized Iron Wire,Galvanized Steel Wire,Iron Wire
Cross Sectional Shape:
Round
Application:
Construction Wire Mesh,Protectiong Mesh,Fence Mesh,Decorative Mesh,Gabion Mesh,Window Curtain,Barbecue Wire Mesh,Cages
Type:
Galvanized
Wild in Width:
1.1M
Surface Treatment:
Black
Status:
Hard State
Thickness:
Metal Thick Wire
Galvanized Technique:
Electro Galvanized,Hot Dipped Galvanized

Galvanized wire can be divided into two categories: Electro galvanized wire and hot dipped galvanized
Though wire drawing, annealing, acid cleaning and galvanizing processes
With the features of being economical, soft, clean, easy to bind

Galvanized wire technical data
Wire diameter: Bwg8~ Bwg22
Zinc coating: 8-250g/mm2
Material: : Q195, Q235, SAE1006/1008 SAE1050/1065
Tensile strength: 350-680N/mm2

Galvanized wire Packing way
Package: Roll/reel
1Package: Inner plastic, outer weave
2Inner plastic, outer hessian cloth
Roll/reel Weight: 1kg--1000kg
Specific packaging requests are also accommodated

Galvanized wire Introduction: 
Its solid and durable. Widely used in industry, agriculture and stock raising. We mainly produce the galvanized wire ( 16#--22#) in architecture. In addition, the galvanized wire is also can used as binding wire
The daily capacity is 200 tons. 
We can customize U type and other type according to your requirement

Hot Dipped Galvanized Steel Wire--0.40mm High Quality

Galvanized  Wire
Wire  GaugeSWG(mm)BWG(mm)Metric(mm)
84.054.194.00
93.663.764.00
103.253.403.50
112.953.053.00
122.642.772.80
132.342.412.50
142.032.112.50
151.831.831.80
161.631.651.65
171.421.471.40
181.221.251.20
191.021.071.00
200.910.840.90
210.810.810.80
220.710.710.70


Q:I am doing wiring in my shed on preexisting light fixtures and outlets. the wiring that was disconnect from that carried the electricity to it. What I am trying to do is have all the light fixtures work of an extension cord. I have another extension wire connected to that with the +, - and 0 showing. The fixtures have 3 wires coming out of them what I think to be the power in, power out, and switch. On the fixture on the end I connected my extension cord thing and it work, BUT only that one. The rest of the fixtures did not work, I do see anything wrong. What I thought was that I was connecting to the switch wire so I changed it and it just buzzed with blue light. What is going on?
Oh Abdullah, instead read Alexander Pope's An Essay on Criticism, and read slowly the lines a little learning is a dangerous thing and fools rush in where angels fear to tread, then go find someone a little less hyper and a little less dangerous to help, or else somebody's going to get hurt!
Q:I am currently doing a guitar build and want to do the 21 tone jimmy page wiring style. I have a few questions. I can follow the diagram attached fairly well but am just confused on certain points. 1. for all the wires excluding the pickup wires, so the majority of the black wires, should those be hot wire or ground wire? I bought a wire back that has black ground wire and hot white wire and am confused on what to use when. 2. Specifically with the black wire coming from each pickup, once those go to a terminal on the pot the black wire that comes off of that joint is a connecting wire like in question 1, not a stretch of the pickup wire correct?3. When multiple wires come to a single solder joint should you tin the pot and then add one wire at a time to that spot or solder them all together and then to the pot?
Hello there, 1) Excluding pickups, black wire hot or ground? They use black for both in that diagram. I believe the only ground wires are all marked as ground in the diagram. A ground wire will run from the case of a pot to somewhere. To the ground side of the jack. To the bridge. To another pot. As for what you bought, I have no idea what you are trying to say. There is no difference in the wire itself that is used for ground or hot. You can use any wire (except bare) for either of those. 2) The black wire from the bridge pickup goes to a terminal of the switch on the push/pull bridge volume pot. You may solder the wire and continue the same wire down to the terminal of the switch on the push/pull tone pot. Or you can use another wire to connect those switches. The black wire from the neck pickup go to the middle terminal of the neck volume pot. Again, you may continue the wire from the pickup or solder in another wire to connect to the switch on the push/pull neck tone pot. 3). When I run ground wires to the case of a pot. I used separate solder joints. I do not wrap the wires together and then solder them as a group onto the pot. I have tried that and got bad connection on some of the wires. Best to solder ground wires separately. On a switch terminal where you have two wires coming to the same terminal, I try to solder both wires at the same time to the terminal. 4). All connections are soldered. Also, you should be aware that not all pickups have the same colored wires. You need to check the color code for the brand of pickups you are using. Seymour Duncan makes his diagrams based on using his pickups. If you use some other brand, the color of the pickup wires may be different. Seymour Duncan has a pickup wire color code chart on his web site. Later, Norm
Q:I had my uncle-in-law hook up my American Bass Pro 800 Watt Amp but he used cheap wiring. The wire is fairly small and he told me it doesnt matter how big the wire is. But what i wanna know is, Is the wire giving the amp enough power or does American Bass Pro Amps suck?? Help please
Okay, well the higher the watts the amp pulls the large cable you will need. My system pulls 500 watts (RMS) (1000 peak) and when i had it installed they ran 4 gauge wire from the battery to the amp, then used a separation block (4 gauge input and four 8 gauge outputs) to knock down the 4 gauge to 8 so it could connect to the amp. Usually the gauge wire that is the input size for the amp would be the wire you would want to run from the battery to the amp, unless you are running multiple amps. basically larger the amp=larger the wire needed hope this helps
Q:I need a wiring guide or diagram for the stereo of a 2005 ford taurus. somethig that will show which wires are for front and rear speakers, and the remote start wire
if you are installing a radio you dont need that the wires should match and they have codes to match written on them
Q:can anyone please tell me what does hook-up wire mean and how does it differ from other kinds of wires such as light duty and heavy duty?Also,which one should I use for breadboards?
Hookup wire is a term usually reserved for wire sizes smaller than 16 AWG, usually single strand conductor. It is generally used in applications where current-carrying capacity is not of prime importance. Breadboarding is one of these applications, but usually uses 22AWG or smaller wire.
Q:I have a 98 oldsmobile intrigue. Stock radio was taken out a while ago so all there is are wire hanging out. I don't know what I need, a wire connector or wire harness. Honestly don't know what's what. Also need to know how to use the wire connector/harness.and what goes to what
First off, if there are bare wires, meaning they are all loose and you see copper then you are in for a rough time. If they are still wired into the stock harness and connectors it will be much easier. If you have a stock harness and connectors, you should buy a vehicle harness adaptor that is correct for your car. Just about any stereo shop should be able to get them. This will plug into your stock harness and give you labeled wires to connect to the harness you get with the new head unit. Just splice them together and you should be good. Very straight forward. Just follow the instructions. If you have bare wire then you will need to get a chilton's or haynes manual for your car. There should be a wiring diagram that lists the color codes for the what wire is what. Use that to splice into the deck harness. This is the harder route because you don't have a lot of slack on the stock wires and its a headache to keep it all strait in your mind.
Q:running wire from wall out let to a on and off switch and then to another outlet
What is your problem ? i can be contacted at johnd_82@yahoo
Q:hi i have been wondering what to get Wireless or Wired for my Xbox 360 the xbox is about 30 feet away for the router. the router is a sagem router which sky provide me with and if i am going to go wired i will use a netgear etlernet HUB mainly what i want is a fast internet link hoping for lag free connection my contract with sky has ended and now i can switch what internet supplier sould i switch to
Deffinitely go with the wired. Get an extension, shove it under the carpet if you have to. Even the slightest lag a wireless router can provide is the most irritating thing. Signal cops out sometimes also. If you have a fast modem, wired will never let you down.
Q:Can you swap out a 1984 Porsche 944 wiring harness with a different car's wiring harness? If which car. Thank you.
Sure. You are going to have to make a lot of patches to the other wiring harness to make it work.
Q:Our house ground wire is very long but our live and natural wires are very short. Once there was a surge in our telephone line system and both my Belkin Surge Protectors seemed to have not stopped it. The surge was stopped at my last protector when its sensitive fuse blew (it was a 10 ohm resistor fuse). Is it possible that since the natural wire is shorter than the ground wire the surge wantted to go through my PC and into the natural wire? Or is it just because the 10 ohm resistor fuse was a bit too sensitive or something? (Well it didn't blow up when there was no lightning outside)I'm thinking of making my natural wire longer by extending it so a surge finds the ground wire more attractive, is this advice able?
Your ground wire should go to your breaker box, then to a ground rod or some other good ground point with a large #6 solid wire. I don't understand why your ground wire should be substantially longer than your neutral or hot wires. Making your neutral wire longer would probably have little effect. You could also have a poor connection in your ground wiring. Maybe some corrosion has accumulated somewhere. A surge protector can't operate correctly without a good ground. It sounds like you should have an electrician check your electrical system. This could save you money in the long run.

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