I. CEMENT STANDARD
1.Vietnam standard (TCVN)
- Quality of Cement as per TCVN 6260 - 2009
2.European standard (EN)
- Certificate I -EN 197-1.2000- CEM II 42,5 R
- Certificate II - En 197-1.2000 CEM II 42,5N
- Certificate III - EN 197-1.2000 CEM I 42,5R
3.American standard (ASTM)
- ASTM C150 TYPE-1
- ASTM C1157 TYPE- GU
- ASTM C1157 TYPE- HE
II. SPECIFICATIONS FOR ORIDINARY PORTLAND CEMENT AS PER EN 197-1:2000/CEM II 42.5
Loss on Ignition, (LOI)
Physical and Mechanical Properties
- Retained content on sieve 75mm
Time of setting
- Initial set
- Final set
- Q:Why is my Portland Cement gray?
- If you didn't use a concrete primer before doing your patch work, you will not have to worry about the color, because it will disappear.
- Q:Was the gulf oil leak sealed with cement as stated, or was it concrete?
- In the oil industry it is known as cement. Granted, there are non-cement constituents, but there is no aggregate as the concrete that we're most familiar with has. The cement has to flow through small gaps and can't have rock chunks in it. The cement used in the oilfield also has a number of other additives to control such things as setting time and flow characteristics (called rheology).
- Q:Cement and its early uses and terms?
- The word cement traces to the Romans, who used the term 'opus caementicium' to describe masonry resembling modern concrete that was made from crushed rock with burnt lime as binder. Cement comes from Latin caementum 'chips of stone'; cement is an ingredient of concrete. With this background information, and sicce your book has a medieval-ish setting, I would suggest using the term caementum when you describe the cellar flooring.
- Q:How is cement made and what is in it?
- Let's work backwards... CONCRETE is Cement, water, sand and aggregate (gravel or rock). When the water is added to the cement, sand and rock, it forms a chemical bond that turns it into concrete. It does not dry but rather cures. You can pour concrete under water. Mortar is cement, sand and water. No rock. It is used to bind brick together. So, Cement is the common item. Cement (also called Portland Cement - that name comes from it being similar to stone that comes from the Isle of Portland, in Dorset, England ) is made by heating LIMESTONE in a kiln, the result - called KLINKER - is then ground into a fine powder and some Gypsum is added. That is than bagged as Cement.
- Q:Can you tape drywall and cement board together and install tile over it in the shower?
- Cement Board Vs Drywall
- Q:in what ratio should i mix cement and water?
- If you are trying to make concrete you also need to add sand. Portland cement + sand + water = mortar Portland cement + rock + water = concrete Mix dry first then add the water. Add water slowly then mix up add more water a little at a time. If you get it too wet it is not as strong. If you get the mix a little to runny, add more portland cement.
- Q:Is contact cement flammable when dry?
- Contact cement is a mixture of the actual bonding agent (the cement) and a solvent. The cement itself has a flammability rating similar to wood. It will burn as will wood but it is not a fire hazard like a low molecular weight solvent. The solvent is mixed w the cement to enable the installer to spread a thin film of the cement on the items to be cemented together. The solvent evaporates leaving the sticky cement which provides the adhesion. The solvent is flammable, in about the same range as is paint thinner or gasoline. However, once it has been evaporated and the vapors diluted the fire issue is gone. It is much like painting with a solvent borne paint; the solvent (often called paint thinner) is flammable. Once the solvent has evaporated away and diluted, the flammable issue is gone. You probably note that the directions tell you to have adequate ventilation. This is designed to dilute the solvent fumes and get them outside where they dilute further and decompose. This is critical.
- Q:cement block weight..how many in back of a PT cruiser weight wise?
- ABOUT 800 lbs. per load !
- Q:advisable storage method of cement?
- Not sure I understand the question - Is it a ready mix powder, already mixed and you want to keep it so it can be applied later, or hardened cement that you want to dispose of? if A) Ready mix powder can be stored in any water tight container (bag, box or barrel). B) Mixed powder must be applied before the curing sets in. From the moment you add the water, the curing starts. Curing in cement is aided by water, not by oxygen. So unless you can freeze the mixture, it will be very difficult to slow, much less stop the curing process. So, for all practical purposes, you cannot store cement. Think of curing like a bucket of chain links - at first all the links are separate and you can easily stir the bucket (well, OK - lets assume these are small chain links...). But as the curing proceeds, the chain links connect with each other. So no imagine that you try to stir the bucket of linked chain. Even if the links are only 50% linked (meaning there are still 50% of the links with not even their first link completed) the bucket becomes progressivelyy hard to stir, until eventually you just have a bucket of metal links all attached to each other - You would be able to stir or re-shape it anymore. C) Lastly if you want to dispose of cured cement (say after your done working) it can be disposed of in the regular trash, but many cities like you to bring it to the dump vs having your plastic trash bin suffer the effects of a heavy, sharp-edged object being tossed around in it as well as the safety issue it poses to the trash collection worker.
- Q:how is cement prepaed? what are the uses and different types of cement?
- I've been in exactly the same situation. We live on the edge of nowhere and can't get delivered concrete. We poured our greenhouse floor, using Portland premix cement and a mixer. Our mixer is slightly smaller than yours. We used extra water in the mix so it would stay workable longer. Bad idea! The floor did fine until the first winter. It then split, chipped cracked and, well, you get the picture. We ended up redoing it. The second time we divided the floor into three sections. Each section had its own small 3/8 rebar web placed 2 above ground in a 4 floor. We supported the web by driving 10 pieces of 3/8 rebar into the ground and wire to hold the web to them. Lastly, on the sides where the adjoining sections would go, we used 1 x 6 pieces of redwood. We drilled them and ran rebar through to the web – leaving 2' sticking out for attaching the new sections. That piece sticking out was attached to the next section's rebar web. It has been there for several years now, and has no cracks at all. Our temperatures range from 105°F in summer to -40°F in winter. I put a link in to show how to determine how many cubic yards of concrete you'll need. Good luck!
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