Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series FSDL60

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series FSDL60 is one of the most popular color of Glazed Porcelain Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Glazed polished tiles are on the basis of the traditional polishing brick surface glazing and polishing products, whole set polished tile and glazed ceramic products archaize brick both advantages in one.

 

Product Features

 

  Glazed Porcelain Tile,

  Only Grade AAA available


Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl


Production Line & Package 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series FSDL60

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series FSDL60

 


FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers.

 

3. How to choose bathroom tiles? Porcelain tiles or glazed tiles?

——Currently used in the bathroom tiles with glazed tiles (mainly from price considerations, some high-end can choose tiles, notice to choose tiles). 

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Q:Can You Re-tile Over An Existing Tile Floor?
If down secure you sure can but there are a few extras you have to do. First the top tile must be clean ,dry and oil free.You must use an extra strong this set, at least stronger than you normally would. Third and very important. You must allow at least 1 extra day for the thin set to dry before any foot traffic. I like to do 2/3 days if possible. If you don t let them dry, they ll seem hard but the thin set bond can break w/o you knowing and he tile will fail at a later date. If you have any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:Tearing up carpet, tile entire house?
You can count on paying $7 to $12 a square foot depending on material. Thats just basic flooring, if you want anything high end, then expect to pay more accordingly
Q:Tiled over electrical outlet what can I do?
I'm guessing you probably put backer board down and forgot to cut the receptacle hole. If you can figure out which tile it's behind you can strike the tile in the center hard enough to break it and then use a hammer and chisel to chisel out the pieces. The backer board will chisel out easily. If you don't know the exact location you may have to remove more than one. That's OK because the mortar is probably still a little soft.The other option would be to use a 4 grinder and cutting wheel to cut the tile and backer board out with. If all that works out then you'll probably need to replace the outlet with a GFCI outlet if it's near a water source. Good luck
Q:Bath Tile Repair?
mastic or glue is usually used in applications where tile is going on to a non cementatious material, like wood etc. If the backing is cement in nature, then the best material is a portland cement based product like superflex thinset mortar. then, you may have some grouting issues around the displaced tile. I dont know what you mean by foundation problems, that sounds to me like a cement foundation. good luck, John
Q:My tile won't get clean!?
Never use any strong acid on tiles.Instead try vinegar.Mix 1tbl spoon of vinegar with 1cup of water.Apply it on your tiles let it get dry.Then scrub wash with detergent water.May be it will take some time repetation of the effort but you will get the result .
Q:Our newly installed tile back splash looks wavy.?
ok,first element you want to do is end moist washing the floor ! Unfortunatly each and every so often the more advantageous you moist wash it the more advantageous powdery residue you'll receive. you should have washed it initially with a Grout Haze remover . Now, in all truthfully the most acceptable you may do is DRY wash it with a terry fabric towel or similar,and vacuum up the dusty residue. you should do this some times and dont be afraid to furnish it a touch elbow grease both. non-stop moist washing will basically agrivate the area. Oh and PLEASE....i urge of you..dont ever use PLEDGE on your ceramic tile. no longer except you want to break your neck walking on it afterwards. Ceramic tile could in no way be sealed or waxed. you could seal your grout,and seal your marble and or different stone tiles. yet no longer ceramic. wish you discover this files functional and robust success Bellzie :)
Q:Is there a street in Anaheim California where a bunch of tile stores are? Whats it called?
imperial highway maybe
Q:Kitchen Backsplash Tiles?
Perfect choice...seal once a year
Q:tile vs. hardwood floors?
Hardwood floors by all means. Especially if you live anywhere but the south or southwest. Wood floors have a bit of give to them so they are better for your feet and legs, particularly if you are on your feet alot. They make sense in an area where you want to make things cool as possible, but wood floors give a warm cozy feeling. In terms of long term value, hardwood floors add to the value of a house and often tile gives it a dated look.
Q:Would it cost less to put a fiberglass shower in or tile it with cheaper 1$ tile?
If you are doing the tile work yourself, it will be cheaper than having one of those fiberglass shower enclosures put in. You are looking at the cost of tile (at $1/sqft.), grout ($10 or less), permabase/durock ($9 per 3x5 sheet), mastic ($30 for high quality), and caulk ($4), to get the job done. On an average size shower, this will bring your total material bill in at right around $200. This is based on entirely ripping out your old shower walls (back to the studs), and building an entirely new shower. A complete rennovation for $200. This is what I do for a living, and I can honestly tell you that you will save tons if you are handy enough to do this yourself. One side note on the pre-fab showers (fiberglass, urethane, etc) - we get a lot of calls to come out and remove mold from these types of enclosures. On most that I've seen there are a lot of corners and small nooks that moisture gathers up and sits in. Just something to watch out for should you go that method. Good luck to you, either way.

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