Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series CS60K/60F

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series CS60K/60F is one of the most popular color of Glazed Porcelain Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.


Product Features

 

  Glazed Porcelain Tile,

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series CS60K/60F

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series CS60K/60F

 


FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. 

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. 

 

4. Why choose our Floor Tile?

1). Less investment and shorter lead time because we ship tiles directly from Factory.

 

5. What exhibition we joined?

1). Canton Fair (every year)

 


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Q:How do I repair this broken tile?
Sockies, this is actually an easy repair. The first responder suggested liquid nails. Don't even consider that. If you have a matching tile available, use that in lieu of trying to clean off the tile. First off, it looks like the tile came loose based the non-continuous thinset on the bottom of the tile. If that is the case (which is probably the cause), you want to fill in under the tile with thinset, so the entire area where the tile sets is filled solid from the sub-floor to approx. 1/8 below the bottom of the surrounding tiles. You should remove the existing thinset where the tile will set. You can do this with a brick or masonry chisel. If a little remains at the perimeter, that will be fine. Trying to remove all of it flush with the surrounding tiles may result in loosening additional tiles. You don't want that. Allow about 5-6 hours for that to set (harden) enough to set the tile. You don't make it flush because you will spread additional thinset on the underside of the tile to set it. Use a 3/8 notched trowel to spread the thinset on the entire surface of the bottom of the tile. Place the tile keeping an even spacing from the tile to the surrounding tiles You want the grout joints to be the same size all around. Press down over the entire surface of the tile to ensure it embeds completely and is flush with the surrounding tiles. Allow it to set overnight and remove any thinset that will impede the grout from obtaining 1/4 depth. It's not necessary to make the grout the full depth of the tile. It's imperative to remove any loose grout prior to grouting. That's it. I suggest buying thinset that comes in the bag that you mix with water. Don't make it too soupy when you mix it. The thinset and grout need to (what's called) slake during the mixing process. It simply means you mix it, allow it to set 5 minutes and remix it, and it's ready to use. The bag will have those instructions on the back.
Q:→ tile background wall is good tiles background wall renderings
Tiles are not suitable for the back of the wall, the grade is not high, reflective 1, pavement trouble, technical parameters difficult to control: tile pavement commonly used wet and wet two methods, because the tile manufacturing accuracy is not high, Tile specifications are generally too large, pavement is not homogeneous patchwork, high and low gap. Dry shop is easy to cause the tiles off, wet shop easy to increase the gap. 2, slippery: tile surface treatment process so that it used in the process of friction is very small, so very slippery; if the tiles after the oil is more slippery. 3, cold: every pavement of the units and the family are all deeply appreciate the cool tiles in the winter! So suffering from rheumatism, arthritis, but also a lot of people, not to mention the original suffering from rheumatoid arthritis in the cold and long winter how hard brains.
Q:Tiling over greenboard?
I think number 3 is your best option although cement board is not a moister barrier.You need to put a water proof membrane behind it. You can use 1/4 inch cement board and replace the green board with thinner green board.or you can use a paper barrier with 1/2 inch cement board
Q:My Kitchen floor is covered w/ vinyl sheets and it is wood underneath. can i put tiles on wood instead?
vinyl tiles? or ceramic tiles. The answer is yes. You would have to prepare the floor and buy the materials.It can be done. Get a professional to do it. The sides and edges can get iffy and you need a special saw for the tiles, it is not easy but the pros can do it really fast and even,as it is pretty hard to just get the floor prepared. Tile looking floor panels are faster to put in than ceramic tiles..
Q:Tiles or hardwood (Tasmanian Oak) Floorboards?
Hardwoods are classic. You can never go wrong with hardwood floors as far as resell value. I renovated two years ago. We have a 1500 sq/ft home. We did tile in the bath and hardwoods everywhere else. My husband wanted to tile the kitchen as well but we were talked out of it due to labor costs. Cleaning tile grout is troublesome, sealing it is ineffective if you have food stains or mud or something. My tile floors are very pretty but I regret it. Be sure to get real hardwood with NO laminate at all. Some hardwood floors are real wood on the surface but laminated onto a synthetic bottom. Be careful that way. Things to ask before choosing: How many times can they be refinished? Are they glued or nailed? (Glued are crappy, nailing is much more effective.) How do I clean them? (I use a steamer, no chemicals.) Will my subfloor support the hardwood? (we had to install a new subfloor). Oak and Hickory are the best HARD woods to choose from.
Q:How long are ordinary white strip tiles?
There are four general specifications: 8 × 40 12 × 45 40 × 60 Commonly known as kicked tiles.
Q:Cleaning groutingon tiled floor?
There is fairly new cleaning technology out that uses peroxide based cleaners, which do an excellent job if used on a regular basis. I have only seen it in the commercial sector so far, but it replaces alot of the cleaning supplies used for numerous tasks. Hopefully it will soon come out for residential use. The biggest upside? It is 100% environmentally safe. Go to a custodial supply distributor to see if they carry some. Spartan Chemical has a product called Clean by Peroxy.
Q:Help plezz? a 15ft by 18ft floor...How many green tiles and how many white tiles will be needed?
Draw a picture and use practical thinking plus arithmetic. Then just add up the area of the sections of tile.
Q:What kind of tile is good for baking?
Quarry tiles are genreally considered safe to bake on. The concern is with glazed tiles which may contain and may release lead in your oven - not a good thing! Unglazed quarry tiles are thick and are made of fired clay, basically as it comes from the ground. Thus it has other things in it besides clay. Ceramic tiles are generally thinner and but stronger. This is because they are made from refined clay in a powdered form. The end result is a more uniform tile, thus it is stronger.
Q:Porcelain tile over ceramic tile?
To go over tile I ve used both Flex Bond and VesaBond thinset made by Custom Building products, Both are usually sold at Home Depot.. One suggestion when tiling over tile, allow a few extra days drying time before any foot traffic on the new tile . Moisture has no where to go when doing this and extra drying time IS required. Do NOT add a latex additive if you use a polymer type thin set, only a latexed based thin set.. No sanding is generally needed, just a clean , oil and grease free tile. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

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