• Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series CS60N/60F System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series CS60N/60F System 2
  • Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series CS60N/60F System 3
Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series CS60N/60F

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series CS60N/60F

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series CS60N/60F is one of the most popular color of Glazed Porcelain Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.


Product Features

 

  Glazed Porcelain Tile,

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series CS60N/60F

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series CS60N/60F

 


FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2. Why choose our Floor Tile?

——Less investment and shorter lead time because we ship tiles directly from Factory.

 

3. What exhibition we joined?

——Canton Fair (every year)



Q:Do I start in the middle like normal tile? What happens if I don‘t start in the middle due to the uneven wall?
You need to measure your room like any other tile and start in the center. Even if your walls are uneven you would still want it to start in the center otherwise it would look strange anyway once you got to the other side of the room...
Q:Such as the brand, from which aspects to identify the quality of tiles and so on.
Vuitton Fort tile quality and cheap you can refer to
Q:I have granite tiles I want to put on a kitchen countertop. I removed the laminate and underneath is about 1.5 thick of a particle board of some sort. The countertop is very sturdy and the board is in great shape. I know if this stuff get wet, you can have problems, but otherwise it seems to be very sturdy stuff. I know most people will say you need to put down a sheet of hardibacker, but I don‘t see the point. With a top grade thinset, these tiles will definitely adhere to the board extremely well. Grount lines will be extremely tiny and I‘m going to double seal everything with a really good sealer. I don‘t see anyway water is going to penetrate these tiles and thinset and get to the particle board. That‘s really the whole issue, right?
You can do that no problem. Particle board is a very stable material as long as it doesn't get and stay wet a long time. Make sure you seal the edges of the particle board (if you're not covering them with tile). That's the area that's most vulnerable to water damage because of water that drips off of the top of the counter. But I have to say....tile as a counter is outdated and tacky. Get with the program. Use solid granite or solid surfacing. Tiled counter tops are embarrassing.
Q:I know granite is one, but what other less expensive kinds of tile are durable enough for countertops? Just bought the house so money is tight and granite,or even granite tile, is out of the question.
If your budget is too tight to allow for a granite slab or tiles, you might have to go with ceramic tiles for now, and perhaps just get a slab of marble for part of the counter if you do a lot of pastry baking. (Marble stays nice and cool, to help keep the butter from melting out of your pie crust or puff pastry while you work it.) The cost of a granite slab may be no more than it would be for tiles, once you account for a tilesetter's labour to install the tiles properly. You might also consult with the kitchen design folks at Lowe's or Home Depot. They may have other suggestions not given here.
Q:Ok we are remodeling our kitchen and have the area between the counter tops and the bottom of the upper cabinets that is currently some ugly green tiles. Very small ones at that. We do not want the hassle to remove these and try to replace with something more attractive. We are looking for solutions to just cover the tiles with something d-i-y and not too expensive. I have seen a lot of peel and stick stuff but don't know if it can be used on tiles. Please give suggestions!
I okorder /
Q:Just moved into a house with tile floors, I have fiber mopped, stick-vac‘d, wet mopped them and they still feel gritty on my bare feet. Anyone have any suggestions or will they always feel dirty?
have you checked the grouting, it may be disingrating - and need sealing or replacement.
Q:Figure, I was in the indoor shoot, only two lights 600W1200w, brick surface is not bright matt antique tiles, moved to remove the two sides still have, I do not want to shoot good-looking, is to accurately accurate design printing of. Is there any way? Do you have to be back? Polar mirror ok? By the way, what kind of high-reflective polished tiles to shoot?
Light source to astigmatism 2. Add polarizer 3. Avoid the light source angle ? High reflective to shoot the texture, make a soft box, just like the eyes of light as the film, if the contrast is too large to use the high dynamic to reduce the contrast
Q:we have an outside toilet which has been removed and we are wanting to change the room in to a washing room. it is a brick out building and the brick has been painted, how easy is it to tile over this and how could it be done?
Tile Over Brick Fireplace
Q:tiles...for construction or what?
construction
Q:I want to remove my carpet in the bedroom. I know about pulling it up and all that but what I don‘t know is what the next step is after it‘s totally up. I want to put down tile I‘m not sure if I want to put down ceramic or just the plain old sticky tile. my question is can i put tile down directly on the floor boards. I don‘t think that there is hardwood underneath i just see like plywood or whatever that board is called. Is there anything specific that needs to be done to the floor before tiling?
While the peel and stick will stick to the floor, I'd still recommend an underlayment. Underlayment properly put down will even out the rough spots on the floor. The subfloor, directly over the joists, is probably structurewood or commonly called OSB. You could use plywood or fiberrock. Stagger the seams of the underlayment with the seams of the subfloor. For example, if the first sheet of underlayment will land on the seam, cut it in half so the remainder of the seams will stagger, hopefully that makes sense. If you go with ceramic tile, there is one method that go directly on top of structurewood. It requires a special prep, adhesive and grout. And it is definitely not for the novice. It is uses TEC's 1step mortar. It may not even be available in your market. Google TEC 1 step But for the novice, no offense, I recommend using either backerboard or Duro-Rock. You spread, thinset mortar, doesn't need to be latex modified for underlayment, set the board, nail with roofing nails or screw. The instructions are available on line. But nail or screw every 4 along the edges and 8 in the middle. Use the fiberglass tape before you set tile. This should latex modified. There are different ways people like to do this. Some say as you tile, some just stick the tape down and skim the top. What I like is to skim a thin layer over the seams, put the tape down, then make sure there are no ridges. Let sit over night. That way the next day, I can pop lines, and set tile. As far as setting tile, it easy to do when you know what you are doing. It also easy to screw it up when don't know what you are doing. I've seen novices screw it up pretty bad. If you know someone that has tiled before, I hope you get some help. With perhaps a thousand dollars of material on the line, it will be well worth a free lunch and a couple beers at the end of the day.

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