• Brick Ceramic Tile/Homogeneous Tile System 1
Brick Ceramic Tile/Homogeneous Tile

Brick Ceramic Tile/Homogeneous Tile

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
200 Square Meters m²
Supply Capability:
20000 Square Meters per Day m²/month

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1. ceramics tiles 600x600MM.

 

2. Best Quality with best price.

 

brick ceramic tile,homogeneous tile

 

1.many size:

 

wall Tiles: 200x300MM,250x400mm,300x300mm,150x150mm,200x200,300x450mm, 300X600mm                      

 

Floor Tiles: 200x200, 300x300, 400x400, 450x450, 500x500, 600x600mm,800*800MM,1000*1000MM

 

Border tile sizes: 200x70/80, 250x60/70/80, 300x60/70/80/90/100, 450x60/70/80/90/100mm

 

2.produce tiles 30 years

 

3.Delivery Time: Within 10-30 days after receive deposit.

 

4.different sizes,same design and color---OK

 

5.same size,different design and color----OK  

 

6. Glossy/shinny, matt, rustic and water proof , polished porcelain are ok

 

7. Standard Carton or Foam box; Need wooden pallet or not as you.

 

if your are interested in this product ,pls contact us.Also we can arrange production according to customer's sample.

 

Our mainly market is Mid-East, South-America, Asia, Africa and so on. We already win a good reputation around the world.

 

Sincerely looking forward to cooperate with you. Thanks! 

Q:Home in the decoration, weigh the room after the decision to put a large tile, in the end to choose high light or matte? Saw several of the matt are yellow and gray, not a little white, I would like to ask you what is the brand? Which? How much is the price?
2, to see the side of the granules of granules are fine and even, the granules are large, rough, then the brick body density crisp, the use of the process will certainly be a problem, give a simple example: you get the house is usually the embryo room, wall The surface is very rough cement surface, when you use the putty powder after the wall is relatively smooth, delicate, and you use such a standard to see just fine. 3, the brick stand up, hand tapping the brick body, the more crisp the sound to prove that the higher the density of brick, the better the quality, the more dull the tones to prove that the worse the density of tiles, tiles, anti-fouling, 4, if it is to buy polished tiles (600 specifications above the tiles), hand touch the brick body surface (hand back touch), start to feel the more smooth proof of the brick surface of the pinhole less, the higher the anti-fouling ability, as long as Do not worry about non-slip problems in the bathroom or in the kitchen. 5, the same color to see the surface of the brick surface gloss, the general floor tiles are placed on the ramp on the ramp, there will be above the spotlights or fluorescent lamps, you want to see these bulbs in the brick surface of the shadow (like a mirror The more clear the shadow of the brick to prove the higher the gloss, the greater the hardness of the brick body, the higher the durability, contrary to the more blurred the bubble shadow to prove the lower the hardness of the brick. Note: here I am referring to the polished tiles Oh, and then compare the time must be the same color, you can not use yellow tiles and white brick to compare, that is wrong.
Q:Any ideas on which model tile cutter is good? and any tips on how to cut around corners and diagnally?
Most tile saws have accersories for differant cuts ,but I would rent a tile saw unless you are going to take a long time on the job. Dewalt makes a good tile saw the D24000S.
Q:We‘re putting in new porcelain tile floors in the kitchen and bathroom. Should the tile go under the refrigerator? Should tiles go in before or after the new vanities in the bathroom? Any other general tips for a first-time tiler?
You need to tile under the refrigerator because if dont the fridge will be uneven or see the edge and be hard to pull out. vanity should be taken out because it makes it alot easier and gives you the choice to replace the vanity in the future with out worrying about it not covering the tile. But you dont have too
Q:I live in a split level 3 story house, the outside of my house is concrete, the walls inside are concrete and the floor is tile. Several weeks ago the tile in our laundry room cracked, as if something was pushing up from underneath. This morning the exact same thing happened in our top story living room. We had tilers come out to re-tile and they said that this happens all the time, but the concrete underneath the tile was untouched and un-warped in any way. Please help? What can we do to fix this from ever happening again?
your house has settled. Nothing can remain level if the foundation is shifting underneath it. tile men are wasting your money. Permanent fix? Ramjack, maybe.
Q:How to do the wall tiles off
Remedy strategy: 1, buy a piece of the same tile. 2, to the construction site to the master to a little cement, not more than two two is enough, looks almost two large meat bag size, a little bit of white cement; 3, to the tool shop to buy a tile with the mud shovel (of course, a little bit of the special folding tile tiles better); 4, home, find a pot of tiles with blisters; 5, to find a small basin, the cement poured into, add water, with a mud shovel and paste paste, sticky and easy to shape;
Q:MyMy bathroom. which is about 75 square feet has a carpet and I want to change it to tile. The only utility is a toilet.How do I handle the toilet? If I use ceramic tile, does the toilet sit on the ceramic tile and does that cause a problem with breaking the tile?What do you recommend that is practical, easy to install, and still functional?
Yes you ll have to pull the stool up and depending on what you sub flooring is now will depend how you treat the stool and wax ring and flange later. There isn t a stock answer with the info you gave. Some times the flange is raised enough to accommodate raising the floor with tile and a 1/2 cement board( if needed). If the flooring is on a slab them the tile will go right up to the flange and stool set atop with a normal or extra thick ring. In 20+ years I ve never had a tile crack under a stool. As long as there is the correct amount of thin set under the tile and any subflooring you add is properly put down,it ll be fine. Stools don t have to be tight tight bolted down just firmly snugged up . Almost ( almost ) any tile will work in a bathroom situation , but get a slip resistant type, one with at least a class III rating is my recommendation Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:My family began to paste tiles, the budget has been bought more than 2 square, and buy back the tile is now posted enough and also a lot worse, would like to ask the forum friends, the normal paste tile loss is how much? Thank you first!
If a large area paved the loss of about 2%. Home kitchen tiles will be around 8%.
Q:I just installed a backsplash in my kitchen. It is glass mosaics with slate - 1x1. Today I began grouting and after it sat for 2 hours ( as instructed) I began wiping it down with a wet sponge. After scrubbing it for about an hour there is still a considerable amount of grout on the tiles - especially the slate. I used non sanded grout which is recommended for my tiles, but it will not come off! What can I do to remove the grout off of these tiles without scratching them? Please help. Thankyou
I don t know who told you 2 hrs but that's totally wrong.He/ she should be shot or fired for telling you that. I d suggest a sanded grout for a slate, even a small 1x1 but with the glass tiles, you have to be careful not to scratch them. Did you seal the slate prior to setting or at least grouting?The grout my be clinging to the unsealed slate as well. At this point vinegar and water will not touch it. Start by scrapping off excess with a pc of wood or a plastic scraper.Don t use any thing metal. Once the excess is off, get a cleaner specifically for grout clean up.Hydroment makes a product called Remove but you can find other products were tile products are sold. Any other questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:How easy is it to tile a kitchen floor. Plus would you lay the tiles directly onto the concrete sub floor or lay concrete boards or chipboards underneath. I would also like to continue this to the hallway and under stairs. Thanks.
Depending on the age of the cement subfloor, it would be my first choice, even if I had to prep it first to insure a good bond. Definitely not cement board, it's not designed or engineered to be walked on, the results downstream would be disastrous. There is a grade of board specifically called underlayment, and it would be my second choice. It needs to be nailed down to cement subfloor about every 6 inches in both directions, very tedious. Not so bad on wood, can be screwed down.This is not hard job, just hard work. Hands and knees, get up to cut a piece, back down to hands and knees. Spread mortar or adhesive, set tile, check for level, spread - set - level, over and over. And level in both directions, North - South, and East - West, and level from tile to tile as well. Really good tile setters make very good money. Very important for you to know: floor tile is thicker than wall tile. It should be 3/8 inch minimum, or 9 mm. Wall tile is generally thinner, and will crack under the stress of weight on it.
Q:i have ceramic tiles that are loose hollow underneath
Yes Rob...I would suggest you pull up a piece of tile. If the tile has thinset on it, Then there is no bond to the substrait (the floor/plywood, cementitious backerboard or dry packed mortar). If there is no thinset on the tile, Then the thinset may have set-up before the the tile was put down. Stand where the tile is coming up and roll up on to your toes, with some force! bang down with the heals of your feet. If you feel the floor move/bounce, Then the substrait is faulty. In any event the floor must be taken up. TCNA (Tile Council of North America) Suggests a 19/32 tongue and groove plywood subfloor over joists 16 on center and a underlayment plywood floor of 19/32 with an 1/8 cap between sheets. I know its a lot to take in but if you have another installer redo the floor you should get the TCNA handbook and make sure its done right. It only costs about $9.00 Look up TCNA on line. Also make sure the installer uses a super modified thinset!
With a mission of "quality-centered, depending on innovation of techniques, and focus on developing high quality sanitary ware", we now have many category products including bathroom faucets, kitchen faucets, automatic faucets, shower sets, sliding bar sets, hand showers & showerheads, bathroom accessories, kitchen sinks, flush valves, angle valves, Fast on taps, PTFE tapes, basin drains, floor drains, bathroom cabinets, toilets, urinals and bathroom sinks. For OEM processing and production, we have widely been cooperating with the manufacturers of internationally famous brands and globally famous building material chained supermarkets.

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