• CDCK8 AC contactor System 1
CDCK8 AC contactor

CDCK8 AC contactor

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Applicable Range

CDCK8 AC contactor (hereinafter called contactor) is designed for circuit of AC 50Hz or 60Hz, rated operating voltage 220V,rated operating current 30A, used to make and break the circuit in motor of refrigeration compressor.


Applicable standard

National Standard : GB 14048.4 GB 17885
International Standard: IEC 60947-4-1 IEC 1095


Normal usage and mounting conditions

1. Ambient temperature: it works within -18℃~+50℃, and the average temperature no more than +35℃ in 24hours.
2.Altitude no more than 2000m.
3.Class of pollution: Class 3.
4.Installation condition: Class III.
5.The inclined angle between the mounting surface and the vertical surface no more than ±5℃.
6.Where there is no shake, compact and vibration.
7.Location without rain or snow.


Technical Parameters
Construction Features

1. Contactor is stereo and double breakpoint. Contact adopts silver base alloy, magnetic system adopts E type iron core, armature iron adopts electric and blunt iron.
2. Main circuit of contactor designed for two types: insertion connection and screw connection while coil adopts insertion connection with convenience and reliability.
3. Main circuit has 2NO or 1NO and 1NC.
4. Characteristic is compact, low power consumption, durable, convenient and reliable.


Outline and Installation Dimensions


Q:can somebody please explain the parts marked in red on the following image
The item marked 200mA is a fuse. The 4- 47000 ohm resistors are forming voltage dividers, each pair providing a voltage of 2.5V to the 2 centre pins of that plug. The 2.5 V on each is positive with respect to the lowest plug's pin. There is unlikely to be any load on the 2.5V., it is just providing a voltage.
Q:I have a Rover 420 GSI with an electrical problem. Battery drains over about 40 hours. Replaced it with a new battery. The alternator has also been tested. There is a 4A current being drawn all the time from the battery, when the car is turned off (overnight). I have tried removing all the fueses I can find but nothing makes it drop. I am no great electrical expert. owever, Ive tried removing the Alternator and fan out of line. As it wears down the battery the battery light starts indicating on the dashboard. I am guessing there is a relay or something held open. Is there some easy way of testing them? Thanks.
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Q:I need help figuring out why my off road lights are not working. They were working about a week ago and now they don't work. I have the power wire connected to the battery to a toggle switch. The power wire has a fuse on it but if the fuse was blown the light wouldn't go on on the toggle switch right? Then I have the toggle switch grounded. Then I have the white wire going to the off road lights which are LED and have all of the lights grounded and have regrounded them twice since the first time they were not working that was the problem. I even tried a different toggle switch but that didn't fix the problem. The only thing I can think of is the fuse is blown on the power wire but like I said the light on the toggle switch wouldn't light up right? Please help me figure this out!!!
Assuming that the fuse is between the battery and the switch then I would say the switch is burned out. The switch could still light because different contacts in the switch are used for it. Try by-passing the switch and see if they work.
Q:I asked how to fix it, but was just told the same thing everyone else said, go to a mechanic and let them do it. I would like everyone to know write now that is my car, and I intend on learning everything I can about it, secondly I'm broke, and thirdly, i am a very poor grammarist.lol but seriously I would really like to know what this is.
Some components have an internal, non-replaceable fuse that melts open at a set temperature. The reason that temperature is used is that when an electrical component starts to wear out, More energy is required to keep it going. More energymore heat through the wires, and the wires are protected by fuses that melt when the power draw of the component exceeds their thermal rating, usually expressed in amps. The most common part that blows an internal thermal fuse that comes to mind is a Ford Airbag control module, and just replacing the module usually results in another blown internal thermal fuse. There ARE components out there that have a resettable internal thermal fuse called a circuit breaker. When the component draws too much power, the circuit breaker trips open due to excessive heat , then, when it cools down, it will reset itself. The most common component that utilizes a non-replaceable circuit breaker is a GM power window motor. usually it will go up a little ways, then stop and not work for a minute or so, then will go up a little more, then stop.This is the circuit breaker cooling down and resetting. Hope this helps.
Q:Cells of a plant? Or an animal, etc. What makes them stick together?
In plant cells it is the plasmodesmata that hold the cells togetherthere are small rigid openings on the cells that allow the cells to by connected together (like their cytoplasms literally go through one another) which allows for adhesion of cells together and cellular communication. In animal cells it is that Adherens Junctions between cells that allow for the adhesion of cells together.
Q:I just asked a question about my 2006 trailblazer with 48,000 miles. The service engine light does not come on when I turn the key over, neither does the seat belt light. What worries me is that I see a scuff in the dash where the screw is to remove the dash. The car hasn't given me trouble and I took it to chevrolet to have a work up done on it, and it was hooked up to a computer and no warnings came up, but WHY would that light not work? I am guessing somebody has probably tampered with it, and trying to screw me over, but its actually been a marvelous car so far. Chevrolet told me that the light is tamper proof, but I don't see how. Couldn't they just pull it out, or color it with a marker or something? I hate having the wool pulled over my eyes and it pisses me off to think someone would do that.
should come on with key in the on position/have it plugged into obd and check/also go out and while its running take off the electric conn to air flow meter/that should lite it immediately
Q:During the battle of Gettysburg, the gunfire was so intense that several bullets collided in mid-air and fused together. Assume a 4.91 g Union musket ball was moving to the right at a speed of 248 m/s, 20.3° above the horizontal, and that a 2.96 g Confederate ball was moving to the left at a speed of 282 m/s, 16.0° above the horizontal. Immediately after they fuse together, what is their velocity?
For this problem, you'll have to use conservation of momentum in both x and y direction. For x direction - m1v1 (x) +m2v2(x) (m1+m2) V(x) 4.91*248*cos(20.3) -2.96*282*cos(16) (4.91+2.96)*V(x) solve for V(x) here. V(x) would be the x component of the vector (as asked in the question format). Similarly conserve momentum in y direction, and solve the problem.
Q:I need the wiring diagram for a 1999 Saab 9-5 SE. It is for the front fog lights, I have looked everywhere and cannot find a site that has them for free.
generally there is a light(s) a switch, a fuse, and a relay for the components. If you are looking for the schematic, they are the same components for every car so I would recommend going to your local auto parts store, look on the shelf of fog lights, and on the back of the box has the schematic drawn out. you can copy it or just draw them on a piece of paper, because there are not a lot of wires. I hope this helps ~Joe
Q:I have a 240 watt car amp and every time i put my ground wire in the fuse blows and the only other thing i have hooked up is my power no speakers or remote just the ground and power can someone please help me?
You either have a short somewhere, or you're pushing too much juice through. Make sure that you aren't causing a ground loop somewhere in your wiring, and that all of your wiring contact points are clean and secure. Also, I hope you're disconnecting the battery anytime you're working on any electrical wiring in your car? Doesn't matter if the car is off, the battery still contains an electrical charge, ready to blow whatever component you try to hotwire into a live wire; remember, this is (DC) direct current. I'm assuming the fuse blows as soon as you reconnect the battery after running and terminating the wiring down. If this is not the case, next time disconnect the battery, complete the amp power/ground connections, replace the fuse, and then re-connect the battery. If it still blows you have a short somewhere, most likely being a bad grounding point, or a grounding loop.
Q:I have a 2000 Chevy Tahoe 5.3L. The front AC works fine, it blows nice cold air. The rear AC does not work. When I turn either of the overhead ac control swicth on, I can hear a click in the rear passenger pannel but no air comes out at all. I checked the fuse box under the hood and the HVAC fuse was blown (30A). I replaced that and turned the rear ac back on. Again, I hear a click in the rear panel. I can hear that everytime I turn either switch on each controller on and off. Went to check the fuse and was blown again, but I can still hear the clicking sound in the rear even with the fuse blown. I believe there are 3 components in the rear ac system. 1) Hot/Cold Actuator 2) Floor/Ceiling Actuator and 3) Control Module. Now, is one of these bad? Where is my problem? I don't want to start replacing parts without knowing what is really bad on my vehicle.Please help. Thanks
Should be in the blower itself, not the actuators. What you can do is get a short finder so you dont have to keep replacing 30A fuses, but unplug the relay in the back for the blower motor see if the short is before the rear HVac or inside the rear HVAC. If it doesnt blow then insert the relay unplug the blower itself see if it is the problem. Maybe it or a short in the wiring somewhere

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