• Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN 15 mm high-performance System 1
  • Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN 15 mm high-performance System 2
  • Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN 15 mm high-performance System 3
  • Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN 15 mm high-performance System 4
  • Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN 15 mm high-performance System 5
Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN 15 mm high-performance

Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN 15 mm high-performance

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 pc
Supply Capability:
1000 pc/month

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Ball Valve For Heating Supply

Product Description of Ball valve for heating supply:

Technical introduction

The ball valve is designed as fully welded structure,which can prevent the leakage of medium.
The valve seat is floating and spring-loade.The seal is made of soft seal materials of PTFE+20%C and Viton B.The seat is tightly abutted against the ball surface by the pressure of a spring,so that even if the media is in low pressure,a reliable sealing can be assured for the ball valve.Double piston effect and double seal(two-seal seat)are adopted in specially designed valve seat to realize double sealing,which makes the tightness of the ball valve more advantageous and the operation easier.
A floating ball is adopted for DN15-DN200,and a stem and trunnion ball is adopted for DN200 and above,which can ensure the accurate position of different size ball.In other words,the sealing performance,low torque valve and operability can be guaranteed.
The sealing of the stem is fulfilled by two replaceable O-rings and packing consisting of PTEE+20%C or flexible graphite,as the packing seal material,is fire proof effect,and is specially suitable for fuel gas systems.
The materials used for the valve body and pipelines are the same(carbon steel or SS steel),valve body and stem adopt SS steel and the packing adopts PTEE+20%C which is corrosion-resistance or flexible graphite.

                                             

Design Features  of Ball valve for heating supply:

Features and Applications

Raymond's fully welded ball valve for heating supplyand Fuel Gas systemare used to control the flow at fully open or closed position,not regulate the flow.Only special types of ball valves can realize the flow regulation.Therefore,our welded ball valves can satisfy the requirements of heating systems,e.g:
Main pipelines of heating equipment
Cross channels of heating pipes
Heat exchanger station and any long distance operating station,e.g:
For the transmission of hot water and two kinds of mixed media(water,air or natural gas),limited to Max.4.0MPa and 200°C.
For the transmission of natural gas and one medium,from -30°C to 60°C,and even up to 150°C using specially designed ball valves.
Coal gas pipelines,trunk and the branch supply lines.

 

Standard of Ball valve for heating supply:

Actuator

 Gear  Handwheel customize 

Connection

 Flange  SW  Weld customize 

Medium

 Gas  Natural   gas  Water customize 

Medium Temperature

 <200< span=""> customize 

Application Fields

 Electricity  Medical  Petrochemical customize   

Connection Standard

 EN 1092-1  EN 12627  ISO   7-1 customize 

FAQ of Ball valve for heating supply:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.

 

Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

  Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001ISO 14001API 6AAPI 6DTS CEAPI607/6FA/BS6755.

 

Q3:How can I place an order?

  The only one thing you should do is to tell us the sepecification about type quantity and  mode of transportation, then we will send you quotation within 24 hours.


Q:hello I am having trouble inflating my back wheel tube. so i guess i will just tell you what happened. well i came back from the bike shop with a presta valve adapter and i put it on my tube. it fills up too near full psi but just after a ride around the block it is flat. i have no idea why. please help me! also its a mavic tube 700 x 23, vittoria rubino pro 700 x 23 tire, and a vuelta xrp 17 deep v back wheel. thanks!
OK, okorder /
Q:Why can't i start my valve?
makes no sense try again
Q:I have a 79 ford F-150 and i was wondering where the pcv valve was my truck will start but it wont idle until its reached normal operating temp i was told that it might be my pcv valve is that correct or what else could it be. thanks
Could also be your choke is not working properly. Your pcv valve will not cause an idle problem . But if you need to find it , it`s attached to a hose that is on one of the rocker covers. Hey Mana ! WTF is that crap? Mule
Q:The atrioventricular valves will be open whenA. Atria are in diastole and ventricles are in systole B. Pressure in the ventricles is greater than the pressure in the great arteries C. The ventricles are being passively filled D. The ventricles are in isovolumetric contraction
C. When the ventricles are being passively filled, the valves between the atria and ventricles (atrioventricular valves) will need to open. When pressure in the ventricles is higher than in the arteries, blood will flow into the arteries - there is blood exiting the ventricles, so the ventricles are contracting, so the atrioventricular valves need to be closed to stop backflow of blood into the atria. When atria are in diastole (filling) and ventricles are in systoles (emptying), the situation is the same as I just described for B.
Q:What are the names of the main arteries and valves?????????REALLY NEED ANSWERS TODAY!!!!!!!!!!!
Main arteries: Aorta (oxygenated blood from heart to body), Pulmonary Artery (DEoxygenated blood from heart to lungs). Main Valves: Tricuspid valve (separated right atrium and ventricle to ensure correct flow of blood), Bicuspid Valve( separates left atrium and ventricle), Aortic Valve( ensures blood flow from left ventricle into aorta). hey sorry only saw ur question today:P hope it helps!
Q:I have the correct tools and have done this before. All I want to do is change all three valves that operate the water (hot,diverter,cold). The shower is leaking. I want to change all three valves to stop the leak. I will call a plumber if I can't change the valves or stop the leak. Please tell me what tools I need and I'll begin from there. I have three handles/valves in the shower(cold,diverter,hot).The cold is here # and the diverter is in the center which is here # and the hot is here #. They all line up like this c# diverter# h#. These are how the valves are set up # # #.
There is not three separate valves, it is basically a manifold with two shut off valves and a mixing valve all combined into one unit. Replacing the whole unit would be the easiest most efficient thing to do. What I'm thinking has happened is that the valves started to leak, and you kept tightening the handles in an effort to stop the flow, thereby stripping the handles, not the valves. Get a faucet handle puller, pull the handles, and remove the valve stems by undoing the packing nuts, there is also a seat reamer tool, resurface the seats and install new washers, buy new handles and you may not have to replace the whole diverter assembly. It will take more time but will be cheaper also.
Q:1998 Ford Crown Victoria LX 4.6L Use 89 Octane BP, Shell, Chevron gas. When the engine is under stress(acceleration or going up incline) the engine sounds like the valves are chattering. I can increase the rpm's and the chattering goes away. Had the same problem with 95 Thunderbird 4.6 and have heard other ford cars going down the road with this problem. Air leak? Don't really want to use higher octane due to gas prices and possible engine damage. Also, in the thunderbird, i used a bottle of octane boost and the next day a valve spring broke. Was the octane boost a possible cause?
it is not valve chatter, it is called Pinging, it is a fairly common problem, what it is caused by is hot spots in the engine, or by overly advanced spark timing, i would check your base timing, perhaps even back it off a degree or two, i would also run a bottle of marvel mystery oil, or gm top engine cleaner through a vacuum line to burn out the crud that has built up, the sum total of these repairs: about 15 bucks, the savings: your engine! as for your t-bird, it was the pinging that broke the valve spring, not the tank of hi octane. hope this helps
Q:Can sum1 tell me how i can tell if my valves are in the right place?I notice there are holes in the valves, please explain how those holes are suppose to face to for each of the 3 valves?
Put the correct valve in the valve case. (There is usually a notch that guides the placement, but it is not always accurate enough.) Blow gently into the trumpet, (you don't need to play, just blow as you do to clear the spit valves). If you feel a resistance, rotate the valve until the resistance is gone. When there is no resistance with the valve up, depress the valve and blow again. There should be no resistance there either. Repeat with each valve.
Q:I see a valve that says FNW on it with ( on, off ) but I'm not sure it's the main valve to the water supply. It does go to the water heater so I'm guessing that it's it. Does anyone know anything about the main water supply valve and how to find it?
Main Water Supply Valve
Q:Is what-valve spring. orvalve guide. orvalve cover. orretainer clip
either valve guide or valve seat

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