• API Cast Steel Check Valve Flange RTJ in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 1
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve Flange RTJ in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 2
  • API Cast Steel Check Valve Flange RTJ in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237 System 3
API Cast Steel Check Valve Flange RTJ in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

API Cast Steel Check Valve Flange RTJ in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
500 pc/month

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The features of check valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.                                                                                                         

Body-To-Bonnet Joint

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check valves ,and welded on seat can be also optional if being requested by the customer.Welded on seat is used for NPS>12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.


Standard Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API customize   

Pressure Rating

 150   Class  300 Class  600 Class  900   Class  1500 Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve Size

 50   mm  65 mm  80 mm  100 mm  125   mm  150 mm  200 mm  250 mm 300   mm  350 mm  400 mm  450 mm  500   mm  600 mm  650 mm  700 mm 750 mm




 2   inch  2.5 inch  3 inch  4 inch  5   inch  6 inch  8 inch  10 inch  12   inch 14 inch  16 inch  18 inch  20   inch  24 inch  26 inch  28 inch  30   inch customize 

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

1-Body Material

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M customize 

2-Seat ring

 A105+13Cr  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8  A105+Tool   Steel customize 

3-Disc

 13Cr+A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  Tool Steel+A216   WCB customize 

4-Arm

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

5-Nut

 A194-8  A194   2H  A194 8M customize 

6-Arm pin

 A182-F316  A182-F6a  A182-F304 customize   

7-Yoke

 A351-CF8M  A216   WCB  A351-CF8 customize 

8-Bonnet nut

 A194 2H  A194   8M  A194-8 customize 

9-Bonnet bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B8M  A193-B7 customize   

10-Bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B7  A193-B8M customize   

11-Gasket

 graphite+304  316+graphite customize   

12-Bonnet

 A351-CF8  A216   WCB  A351-CF8M customize 

13-Eye bolt

 A181 customize 

Design Standard

 API 6D  BS   1868 customize 

Connection Standard

 API 605  ASME B   16.25-2007  ASME B 16.47A  ASME B 16.47B  ASME   B 16.5  MSS SP-44 customize 

Test Standard

 API 598  API   6D customize 

Face to Face

 ASME B 16.10 customize 

Pressure-temperature ratings

 ASME B   16.34-2004 customize 

Wall thickness dimension

 API 600  BS   1868 customize 


Q:I have a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2L V8 I posted a question on here before and many thanks, What I had was a bent rod well I took off the head and removed all the valve springs and found that where the bent rod was the valve stems are bent too. What else do I need to do? or can I clean the head up make sure no valve holes are bent, replace the rods and valves and be good to go. I want my jeep running again!!! Thanks
I'd say the timing chain either broke or the cam gear is worn off,cam gears used to be made of fiber rather than steel on older engines. When the cam stops turning the valves stop working and when the piston comes up it then hits any valves that are open bending the valve or push rod or both. If this particular engine is run by a belt and the belt breaks you get the same result. To check this you can take the timing cover loose on the front of the engine and check the condition of the chain and gear.
Q:Is there a devise to reverse the flow to a cylinder. Not the pump. But a inline flow deverter that would shift the flow from one side of the cylinder to the other at the end of the stroke automatically without a person interjecting.ie it extends fully then the flow reverses retracting it fully. Then the flow reverses, and it extends fully and so on.Preferably, with as little lag as possible during the transition.I want the pump to run constantly(not reversing) and the cylinder to run constantly. Do not worry about the heat generated.Would love something that ran off the main cylinder(like a secondary piston or valve that would opendivert flow at the end of the stroke) through linkage. But, I am open to electronics if need be. Further more want the return to be metered so that the push and pull forces will be the same(metered through a smaller opening to adjust for the rod).Thankyou
Electrically operated hydraulic changeover valve would be simplest. Then all you need is switches to operate first 1 solenoid, then the other, reversing flow. These could be as simple as microswitches operating latching relays to control the valve. An accumulator should be fitted to reduce hydraulic shock from a sudden direction change.
Q:I was diagnosed with a VSD and a Biscuspid Aortic Valve and my doctor has started hinting towards sugery. I found out that the only reason i haven't had surgery yet is that it is stable enough to wait until technology improves so i am not left with a large scar. i was just wondering what this surgery would entail and if anyone has had it. I am 19 years old and kind of worried about it...
My daughter was diagnosed with this same thing when she was 10 days old. It has been a miracle that she has not needed any medication or surgery. She meets with the cardiologist 1 time a year. They told me if she stays as stable as she is she will not need surgery. Maybe if your condition stays as stable as it is now, you will never need surgery. I know that when they repair a VSD they do open heart surgery and put a patch over the hole that is in your heart. Sometimes these patches fail and they do surgery 2 or 3 times and it is common. I know that Bicuspid Aortic Valve is an inherited abnormality and that it becomes more sever in your 30's and 40's. Most patients with bicuspid aortic valve whose valve becomes dysfunctional will need careful follow-up and potentially valve replacement in their third or fourth decade of life. Patients with bicuspid aortic valve should be followed by cardiologist or cardiac surgeon with specific interest in this valve pathology. Average lifespan is similar to that of those without the anomaly. In many cases, the condition will cause no problems. However, especially in later life, a bicuspid aortic valve may become calcified, which may lead to varying degrees of severity of aortic stenosis and aortic regurgitation, which will manifest as murmurs. If these become severe enough, they may require heart surgery. I hope this helps and good luck with everything.
Q:What exactly is a flow valve for an ice maker on a refrigerator? Any idea what it would cost to replace it? Is it easy to replace?
Hi, Yeah. The site I found (source) has some pretty good information. Find the model number on the refrigerator and call repair services. You may need to replace a part. If there is no water flow, maybe something is clogging the line and it can be cleaned. With today's economy prices are difficult to predict. PJ
Q:Okay I know lots of people wonder what is better presta or schrader...well I realy don't. My bike was made for presta and thats what I have a question about. So I just got my bike back after is being stored away for a few years, so yeah it was neglected. Question is now that I am doing a tuneup on it I found out the valve came out of the tube. I don't know if that is normal and if I am able to put it back in. It looks like there made for the valve not to come out but I just want to make sure before I go out and buy a new tube. Hope you can help. Thanks. -Sarge
Get a new tube. It is likely that the rubber has rotted away on your current tube. The last one I bought was about $3. I replace tubes about every 2 years even if I haven't had a flat with them. HTH
Q:I replaced the valve cover seal and I wanted to know the torque specs for the valve cover bolts and the sequence it should go
Valve covers require minimal torque and usually, it's best to err on the side of less torque, rather than more on valve covers. Best to consult a service manual for your car (year, make, model and engine size) to find the exact torque requirement. You could also google the torque value for your car per the above specs to find the correct value. In any case, I wouldn't go over about 8-10 ft pounds without verifying the actual value required. Hint: Use a 1/4 drive ratchet and LIGHTLY snug them up until you can find the correct torque value.
Q:Im trying to replace the egr valve on a 97 lincoln continental. I need to find out what size wrench I need, to get the nut off. Do you know?
I am assuming you want to replace the EGR valve because you are getting an insufficient EGR flow trouble code. Before you replace a perfectly good valve with an inferior aftermarket part that will likely fix nothing, a little more diagnosis is in order. If you have access to a scan tool and a vacuum gauge, perform a KOER (key on engine running) test on the engine with the vacuum gauge connected to the hose to the EGR valve. When self-test reaches the EGR test, look for the vacuum guage to move during the self test. If it moves, the vacuum source and EGR solenoid are good. If not, trace the vacuum harness for leaks. Without the scanner and vacuum gauge, find a length of hose and suck on the hose, or connect to other vacuum source to test the valve. You are looking for an RPM drop at idle when you open the valve in this way. I suspect your problem is a passageway clogged with carbon. Remove the valve and throttle body to access the clogged areas and manually decarbonize. This is the most common reason for an insufficient EGR flow on a Lincoln, along with a faulty DPFE sensor or related hoses. My money is on the clogged passages or the bad DPFE sensor.
Q:2004 R6. Runs really well... never had a problem. Has 24K miles on it. Yamaha calls for them to get readjusted at the 26,600 mile mark. So I have a few thousand more and then I'm gunna have them adjusted.I can already hear them tick especially at idle because when riding, my exhaust is so loud and all you can hear is that and the wind. Anyway, this time will come up before I know it.Just curious... what happens if the valves remain loose? Will it affect performance? How do you they become loose and is it ok to ride a bike with them like that... atleast until the specific mileage when they are supposed to be adjustd?
could cause excessive crank case pressure if the duration is way off, i know from experience. Short valve duration=blow by because exhaust gasses have less time to escape the cylinder. Could potentially cause leaks due to blow by gasses
Q:I got a new gas stove, but I can't find a shut off valve to take the old one out and put the new one in. There isnt one behind the stove on the line, and i went under the house and followed the gasline and didnt find one down there either. Can any one give me ideas where else to look?
Well, make sure to re-check the line. Usually and normally, all gas line have a shut off valve. Many new lines have a handle shut off type of valve, others you may need a pair of pliers to shut off. If you re-check and can't find one. Well your only choice is to shut gas at meter, which is very easy. You can use pair pliers or go to your local hardware and purchase a shut off tool. Oh.....and don't forget to change the line. Most corrugated type of line don't meet new standards. Usually, old lines being replaced with epoxy type of lines. Good luck.
Q:What is the functional difference between the following:1. Blow Off Valve2. Dump Valve3. Bypass Valve4. Diverter Valve
My Dive save gave me the prospect to aim on the I3 interior the pool. Any sturdy dive save could. that's high priced kit which you will have for an prolonged time. It needs to in good condition authentic and paintings for you. besides, cooperative dive shops benefit a lot greater in a satisfied customer than they lose by applying letting you are trying on the BCD. I for you may t walk right into a dive save with out popping out with greater kit. LOL

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