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We're looking to lay an engineered wood floor as a floating floor in our upstairs living area. I was wondering which brands are of a good quality and easy to install?
Hart-co is a good brand but the padding under the floor is what will make the floor last longest. Always try to use the best padding with a floating floor if he pad is not already attached.
Can someone tell me what is best for a house and why? What are advantages and disadvantages?Thanks
Real wood floors are thick, they can be refinished many times, of course you won't live that long. Engineered wood floors can be refinished a few times, and is all you need. Laminate floors, can not be refinished...When they start looking tacky (8-10 yrs) you replace them or carpet over top. If you are going to keep your house, go for real wood or engineered floors, and before you buy, Ask about the refinishing angle, just to make sure.
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Solid wood need to wax and anti moth, compound do not use. Solid wood with a long time can not help but there will be a lot of small pits, the greater the hardness of composite but also can knock off the skin.
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The wooden floor is made of cork wood (such as pine, fir etc.) and hard wood (such as ash, elm, oak, teak, etc.) the processing is made, can be divided into: solid wood flooring, bamboo flooring, three layers of solid wood flooring, multi-layer parquet, laminated wood floors, wood composite strengthening floor.
Can I put engineered wood in my Florida condo....we are not there in summer months and are on the tenth floor on biscayne bay in Miami
Absolutely, engineered flooring is made to stand up to adverse conditions. You can even lay it directly on a concrete slab! It won't last through repeated soaking, but it stands up well to high humidity and heat and is easy to keep clean. Check with a local flooring company that sells and installs engineered wood for the full spiel.
My husband and I installed an engineered wood floor in our basement a year ago - about 1100 sq. ft. Within a month we noticed 3 spots that give or make a sticking sound when you walk over them. Obviously, the adhesive didn't take or it was partially dried when we laid that portion of the floor (hey, that's what no experience gets you ; ) Water and humidity are not a problem in this basement, concrete sub-floor has cured for 15 years prior to installation and it is level.One suggestion was to drill a small hole and use a hypodermic type needle to inject more adhesive under the floor and then weigh the spot down for it to adhere. Any other suggestions that don't include ripping the floor up? Or any suggestions on where to buy the hypo-glue tool?
Gee everyone makes it seem so easy. It was done years ago so it is solvent based adhesive. Those remover solutions that people are talking about are mostly for spot removels not large areas. Chances are that the glue has sucked into the grain of the wood especially if it's oak. Go to a flooring place and ask them what to use (not a home center,those people know jack sh*t).Better yet ask them what it would cost for them to remove it.
We are looking to put in about 600 sq of engineered hardwood floors in our house. What are some of the better brands out there. We heard Johnson hardwood is pretty good. Any thoughts?
Bruce, Mohawk, Shaw, Bella Woods and Armstrong to name a few to get you started.Now remember each one ( and all ) of these will have a low end and a high end so shop apples to apples. As far as Johnson hard wood, I haven t heard either way with that particular one. GL
Is there a way to protect (seal, wax, etc) engineered hard-wood flooring ?
You can finish unfinished engineered flooring the same way as solid hardwood flooring...stain and choose your finish....this is a big job, and will take you a few days to do it correctly...you might want to talk to a professional to get all the ins and outs or considered having it done by a professional.