High-voltage Current Limit Fuse for Engine Protection

High-voltage Current Limit Fuse for Engine Protection

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1. Product Description:

Fuse is a device that causes the melt to fuse with the heat generated when the current exceeds the specified value. Fuse is a current protector, which is based on the current exceeding the specified value for a period of time, so that the heat generated by its own melt, thereby causing the melt to melt. Fuse is widely used in high voltage power distribution systems and control systems and power equipment, as a short circuit and over current protection, is one of the most widely used protection devices.

2. Product Characteristic:

1) Good selectivity. On the lower level Fuse ,Fuse Rated current as long as it meets the current selection ratio of 1.6:1, superior Fuse Rated current is not less than lower the value of 1.6 times, is on the lower level can have selective cutting fault current of GB and IEC standard;；

2) The limiting performance is good, and the breaking capacity is high;

3) The relative size is small;

4) The price is cheaper.

3.Specification：

Model	Rated voltage KV	Rated current A	Rated breaking current KV
XRNP1-10(50-1)	12	0.5,1,2,3.15
XPNP1-10(50-2)	12	2；3.15	50
XRNP1-35	40.5	0.5,1,2,3.15

4. Reference Picture:

High-voltage Current Limit Fuse for Engine Protection

Q:i have replaced this fuse 10x in one day. keeps blowing. it controls the pw mirrors,pw,pwr locks,heated seats, and i think the dashboard lights and radio illumination. they are also not working. does anyone out there know what the prob could be. im hopoing its something simple and i can avoid going to an auto electirc shop and get taken for diagnostics and labor. your help is greatly needed and appreciated. thanks: You gotta be sheet stupid to replace the same fuse 10x in one day. The reason the fuse is blowing is because there is something drawing more than 30A of current on the circuit. Any one of those components can have a short in it. You got some work to do to figure out which one. It ain't gonna be easy to find and when you do, it ain't gonna be cheap to fix.

Q:can somebody please explain the parts marked in red on the following image: The item on the left is a fuse rated at 200mA. The 47k items are 47 k ohm (47000 ohm) resistors. I have no idea what the circuit does, but at the 4 pin connector on the right, provides voltages of, from the bottom pin up, 0, 2.5 volts, 2.5 volts, and 5 volts. .

Q:I accidentally switched-on my computer from US that is set to 115 Volts. Power at home is 220 Volts. What could be the components that were damaged inside the power supply?: The most likely failure point would be the main rectifier diodes, to fail short which should have popped an internal fuse. If the supply was not fused, then the diodes would eventually smoke and fail open saving what might be left of the supply. Also, with no fuse, the shorted diodes would have put AC directly on the main reservoir capacitor and they would be smoked as well. I am assuming it did not remain plugged in this way for more than a few seconds. Continued operation whould have overloaded the regulator circuit eventually smoking it as well. The computers battery would act as a buffer to this catastrophy, so it should have saved the computer chassis itself from damage. Getting a replacement supply will be much smarter than trying to diagnose and repair one that has smoked. Most modern supplies do not have a voltage switch, they are universal in 100-240 volts 50/60 cycle without adjustment.

Q:I also checked the fuses but still no power to the fuel pump and ideas what it might be?: did you check the pump before fitting it, if not get some cable and go from battery to relay and see if the pump runs,if not check by placing temporary wires from pump relay to the pump and trying Again,if still not working temp cable from battery to pump relay then from pump relay to the pump if it works its a short circuit in the cars wiring loom,if it doesn't work then its the relay or pump, if you checked the pump earlier then its the relay at fault,also check the earths (grounding cables) if these are loose of broken then no return means no power,,just to be sure try a fuse that's working another component,of the same rating,in other words just swop the fuses over if they are same rating, and try again,hope this helps and be careful fuel pumps and fuel and sparks can cause fires

Q:I have a 30amp fuse that operates my door locks and power seats. I carry around a box of them because sometimes the fuse will last a couple of weeks, or days or hours. Any ideas of an easy fix?: is there a penny in your cigarette lighter that is known to blow fuses, also just take out the cig lighter and see how long it lasts then.

Q:I made a harness for some fog lights and when i touch it straight to the battery.it sparksis this becuase it needs to go through the relay and fuse to work properly? with no sparks?: You're seeing sparks for one of two reasons: 1) Your fog lites are shorted to ground or the most likely cause, 2) Fog lites are a fairly high-draw item, so a momentary spark when you first touch the battery would be expected. Your assumption about needing a relay is a good idea if your car didn't come with factory fog lites. Using a relay will save you from burning wires that aren't big enough to carry the current, especially the start-up current that fog lites draw. Hope that helps! Mike

Q:I'd like to be able to generate significant voltages of DC for experimentation purposes, but so far am having difficulty in creating/sustaining such high voltages. My hope is that the answer may lie in building a voltage multiplier, but I know very little about such technology. It seems I could potentially build one if I knew what components to get and how to configure them. Any help would be appreciated.: yes, you can use ordinary diodes and caps for this. The difficulty is in adequate separation and insulation between stages. For example, if you start with 120 volts ac, from a simple isolation transformer, you can get 160 volts per stage. You need 400 volt diodes, although I'd get 800 volt ones for extra margin, such as 1N4008, as the price difference is small. For the caps, it depends on the current. I'd get perhaps 20?F caps. You need only 200 volts, but I'd try for 400 volts for extra margin, in case one stage dies. reference has more details. edit: I'd be sure to use lots of fuses, like 1 amp ones. And I'd get some high voltage resistors, so you could build a voltage divider to measure voltages. For example, a 100:1 divider could be a 99 M ohm and 1 M ohm. The 99 M could be 4 - 22 M and 1 - 11M. You may have to adjust the 1 M upwards to compensate for your voltmeter resistance. A thousand to 1 would be a 1 Gohm resistor and a 1 M resistor. You can get the Gohm from places like Victoreen, or build it up from smaller resistors. Note that 1/4 watt resistors usually have a max voltage rating of 450 volts. I have seen web pages that go into detail on how to do this, re epoxy and other techniques to maintain the high voltage. .

Q:Everything has been hooked up in my car for about a year (DLS Components, and Rainbow Sub!) and I decided to sell my subwoofer box. Now my amp was on the box so I took it off. In doing so I unhooked all my wires, power, ground, remote, etc etc. anyways. So I put my amp back into my car. NOTHING WAS HOOKED UP SO PLEASE DONT SAY MY OHM LOAD IS OFF I hooked my power, ground, and remote back up. I did not hook any of my channels on, so i jus decided to start my car. Everything i start it my fuses pop right away. I checked my ground, power, and remote everything is good! where in the world is my short!@!!!!!: blown fuses tell me you have a short circuit

Q:around ignition fuse. 98 dodge ram.: Be sure and check the INTERNAL surfaces of your battery cable terminals. They should be clean and shiny for best electrical conductivity. Clean with a battery brush (available at any auto parts store) and tighten snugly so they can't be moved by hand. If that doesn't solve the problem you may need a starter relay, starter solenoid, or a starter motor. To quickly check your starter, have someone tap on it with a hammer or metal object while you try and crank the truck over. If it starts that's a sign that either the solenoid is bad or the starter motor is bad. Get a jump start and go have your starter tested at any auto parts store.

Q:3amp fuse keeps blowing: You could have a small scratch in the paint inside the microwave oven cavity. The paint is a protective covering to the metal which makes up the microwave and if the paint is chipped, even a tiny one, the microwaves react with the metal to some degree. If the scratch is large enough you will get sparks, but if it is small it may only blow fuses.

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