FD3.0-1000-10 Wind generator

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Type: 3 Blade Upwind Rotor Diameter: 3.0m Start-up Wind Speed: 2.5m/s (5.6 mph) Cut-in Wind Speed: 3 m/s (6.7 mph) Rated Wind Speed: 9m/s (20.1 mph) Rated Power: 1000 Watts Maximum Power: ~ 1300Watts Furling Wind Speed: 12 m/s (27 mph) Overspeed Protection: AutoFurl Temperature Range: -40 to +60 Deg. C (-40 to +140 Deg. F) Generator: Permanent Magnet Alternator Output Form:48 VDC Nominal
Work principle and features
Working principle: Wind energy is used as the motive power to provide low speed rotation of a permanent magnet generator to produce alternating current which is then converted to direct current by a controlled constant voltage rectification system, the resulting voltage being stored in a battery, or batteries. The direct current from the battery, (batteries), is then converted to alternating current by an inverter, the resulting controlled and stabilised alternating current being used to power the load, this is the general principle for battery storage type systems. Grid connect systems take the alternating current produced by the turbine directly to an inverter which controls and stabilises the alternating current and also provides numerous control elements for direct connection to the electricity grid. Features : The products combine unique and innovative design with high reliability. The innovative design has been awarded both Invention and Practical new patents by the State Intellectual Property Department and thereby has totally independent property rights in China, resulting in the market leading position in wind to electrical energy conversion, technical design and efficiency. Key design features such as very low rotation speed result in increased efficiency in comparison to other small turbine systems.
Applications and installations
The products are used in areas that benefit from good wind regimes but have little or no electrical grid connection such as; islands, desert and low inhabitation areas, frontier defence posts, microwave and telephone communication stations, forest observation posts, oil pipeline delivery stations, highway lighting etc. Rural and urban applications include, community squares and recreational areas, parks, landscape and scenic locations, resorts, and other ecological areas, applications also include on or off grid national electrified fencing systems.The utilisation of wind energy at no on-going cost significantly reduces the environmental impact of fossil fuel usage whilst saving vital energy resources.

Q:I am trying to install a additional parts to my car. when i remove the bare PCB with lcd from the head unit. i accidentally grounded the circuit board to the Metal plate, it create a little spark. now the LCD doesn't work. my question are1. is the circuit board fried?2. could it be just a blown fuse?3. after ground the board, could it be just burn resistor?: concorde develop into only grounded till the subject develop into fastened. in certainty the accident only exceeded off because of the fact a bite of metallic had fallen from yet another airplane. The burst tire hit the gasoline tank, yet that's no longer what brought about the crash. the burst brought about a marvel-wave, and located a weak spot, which develop into yet another place in the gasoline bit. yet yet that wasn't the subject. flames have been considered in the back of the concorde, what set this off? it develop into in certainty slightly the tire excellent the cable of the landing kit. this explains why the landing kit would desire to no longer be raised. the only clarification is the the loose cable striked the gasoline with the sparks, and brought about a hearth. The NTSB cautioned some transformations, and till then all concorde flights have been grounded. the advancements have been thicker rubber on the tires, strengthened landing kit cables, and a bulletproof furl tank. those style of have been easily fastened, yet concorde desperate to stop their corporation, as they have been given much less salary than for it to run. that's a very distinctive count to the 777, in certainty there is not any particular issue with the actually airplane, its hassle-free errors made by utilising the floor team and the flight engineers. i say they might desire to acquire greater coaching.

Q:Any help greatly appreciated. So I drive a 2005 Chrysler 300. 3.5l v6. I have strange headlight and tail light issues. Mind you there are what I believe aftermarket LED halo style headlights in the front. Tail lights are from 300c hemiFirst of all my #8 fuse [15 amp] is repeatedly blowing for no appearant reason. A Working fuse gives me the fancy blue halos, orange lamps, 3 small LED's and my normal beams. As well as proper running tail lights for the back and a responsive light switch to turn them off and on. . When the fuse blows I'm left with no lights other than my normal beams up front. No tail lights. Yet when the fuse IS blown I press the break and all my tail lights come on [all reds, and yellow blinker lights both constant. Yellow lights don't blink] and a glitchy light switch. NOW aside from all of that. My bottom left fog light does not work. The bulb looks un damaged. Any help greatly appreciated: The fuse protects an individual circuit. The lights which work when the fuse is blown is on another fuse circuit. They could not work if they were on the same circuit as the #8 fuse. It sounds like you may have too many lights on the #8 circuit. If the lighting load is greater than 15 amps it will blow the fuse when you turn on enough lights to exceed the 15 amps. Disconnect a few of the lights to bring the load below the 15 amp limit, and see if it resolves the fuse problem. You could increase the fuse size to 20 amps, but this is not usually advisable as the fuse is sized to protect the circuit components. If its not a result of having too much lighting on the circuit, then I would look for a bare wire which may be contacting the car chassis. The battery is grounded to the car frame, so any power source which touches the chassis will result in a dead ground, which will cause the fuse to blow. I would suggest getting a multimeter to check to see if you are getting power to the left fog light. If you are getting power, then the problem is with the bulb or light fixture. If you are not getting power, then I'd look for a blown fuse or faulty switch.

Q:I have a 9-5 SE 2000 that I just bought a little over a month ago and last Friday around 8pm my car alarm triggered for no reason. When I went outside to shut the alarm off with my remote key chain nothing happened, it kept going, rather loud I might add. It didn't matter how many times I locked or unlocked the car the siren kept wailing. When I put the key in the ignition she started but the alarm would stop. Again, I tried multiple times to shut it off with the electronic remote key chain to no avail. Finally after about five minutes later it randomly shut off. Since then I located the fuse for the alarm under the hood and removed it. I think this has solved the problem of alarm going off but it's also shut down the anti-theft system completely. I'm wondering if removing this fuse does any harm to the other electrical components and whether it shuts off the engine immobiliser in addition to the alarm? Now each time I start the car the SID display sends the CHECK THEFT SYSTEM. Advice?: you may not beleive this, but, your alarm systen, is radio controled. The little goody on your key ring is a tiny transmitter.It is on the same band as microwave ovens and cell phones. Some one in your neighborhood, may have been useing their cell fone, and it tripped your alarm. Don't worry about taking the fuse out. It will not hurt any thing. You may want to install a toggle switch under the dash, that will disable the alarm, in case it does it againreplace the flat battery in your key ring controler too.

Q:I got infinity kappa 6.5 Components and infinity 6x9 kappa both are 2 ohm speakers, dual 7 inch touch screen tv radio has a 15 amp fuse, mtx jack hammer 4 channel amp which is rated at 400 watts rms x 4 @ 2 ohms birth sheet states 480 rms @ 2 ohms x 4, 800 max birth sheet states 895 max @ 2 ohms x 4 and has 2 35 amp fuse, and rockford fosgate tweeters ran of the radio 22 rms. just bought a die hard platinum battery and upgraded my ground and power cables under the hood with 4 awg cable. two 4 awg cables to the alternator and 2 to the ground and engine block one to the fuse box all 4 awg. my lights dim as the bass hits in idle should i get a capacitor or high output alternator?????????: Get an alternator b/c your battery is being drained faster than it should. If u can upgrade to 140-160 amps that should do it. A small cap just to the bass amps might be a benefit as well.

Q:I have a component cable with an end for a ps3, xbox 360 and wii. If I plug a xbox 360 and ps3 into it and then plug it into my tv will something bad happen if I have both my xbox and ps3 on? Or will this even work at all.: Not sure if you can connect them both. The adapter piece is probably too short to connect both. The power adapters will create too wide of a separation to connect them. If you did manage to connect them you're either going to get nothing or you're going to blow up your house and every house within a 5 mile radius.

Q:I have a problem. I have an outlet that has a computer with a 500w psu, stereo, printer, two monitors, and a external hdd. The problem is that the outlet fuse keeps blowing and I cant figure out why. Im pretty sure im not exceeding the maximum power usage and I have already replaced the outlet. Im worried that one of my components may be shorting and leaking current but I dont know how to check. I do know however that it has nothing to do with the electrical infrastructure of my house because my father is using the exact same outlet now for his computer and hes not experieced the outlet blow yet.How can i find out which component is cause the problem?: Each component that you plug into the outlet should have an ID plate stating the watts (power) or the VA (volt-amps) [same thing]. The total should not exceed 1500 Watts. I would guess that the outlet (receptacle) is a standard two slot outlet (handles two plugs only). If it has the 2 straight flat blade (vertical) one shorter than the other, it is rated for 1500 watts (15amps of current). If both of these flat blade slots have a horizontal slot (notch) in the middle of each blade, it is for 2000 watts or 20 Amps of currant. It sounds like you are using a power strip of some sort (most are switched with a red pilot light and maybe even a 15 amp breaker as protection). Of course the wiring to that outlet should be 12/2 AWG wire and the fuse or breaker should be 20 Amps. Again the maximum load should be no more than 2000 watts total. (About the same as a space heater). If you total up the ID plates of each electrical appliance you have connected you will find that over a long period of time if you are running pretty close to that limit and the fuse or breaker gets tired. Heat is the culprit. You total up the watts of the hdd, two monitors and maybe the stereo (PA). I don't think your printer or external hard drive draw that much. Also you should have room around your equipment for ventilation. Good Luck - I hope this helps.

Q:i just upgraded from a p200-2 to a t500.1 they are rockford amps. i had the p200 powering two alpine type r's. abc warehouse told me i was severely underpowering them and continuing to do so would ruin them. they hooked up 4 gauge wiring but kept my fuse and fuse holder. i plan on buying the bigger fuse holder and the 200 watt or voltage (idk how they measure them) fuse for the amp but i was wondering if i could use it for a couple weeks until i have the time and 40 bucks to buy and install these parts. they also told me that my jvc cd player doesnt have the right input for subs even tho ive been there 3 times with that same cd player and they never told me this. heres a list of my stuff. 2 alpine type r 12 inch subs in a q-logic ported box. a jvc cd player ( i payed round 150) a rockford t500.1 amp, 4 gauge power and ground wires, 8 guage rcas, and remote wire, a fuse holder that came with a 8 gauge amp wiring kit and a 80 watt fuse. what would you do next if you were in my situation?: The guy above me is rightexcept for one part Surprisingly, too little power can also damage your subwoofer — in fact, it's actually more common than damage caused by overpowering. Too little power WILL NOT DAMAGE ANY SPEAKER!!!!! And it is in no way more common than damage by underpowering. It is true that underpowering subs will damage them is a myth. It most likely got started when a couple of know nothings got together and started tinkering with the settings on their amp. Theory goes like this. They probably had too small of an amp and were messing with the gain. Gain is not to be used as a volume control, but as a way to match the RMS being produced by the source to the input of the amp. So, that being said, the know nothings had an amp that was too small for their particular setup, which would be perfectly fine if the gain was set right. But, their amp wasn't producing enough watts to provide sufficient volume for them, so they crank up the gain to max, which is what caused the subs to blow. Whenever you crank up the gain on an amp that is too small for a particular setup, you're basically telling the amp to produce more power than it is able to. As a result the amp clips the audio signal and it becomes distorted. The distortion for the clipped audio signal that was achieved by improper gain settings of an amp that was to small is what caused the subs to blow. Not underpowering.

Q:I have dont have a fuel injected bike.Its a suzuki rf600does the wiring fry that easily ? ( if thats the case?): Will any lights come on? OR Will the starter motor spin when you press the starter button? If either of those are no, could be a bad ignition switch. To check - test for power at the fuse terminals (don't just look at the fuse). Without any more details, the next possible problem would be a fry-ed ECM (carbureted models use them). An ECM is the equivalent of a CDI box.

Q:I own a 1999 Chevy Malibu with a v6 engine. I had a problem before where the car had trouble maintaing stability and dropped way below .5 on the RPM. I fixed the problem but that presented another problem. The Air conditioning and windows won't start at most times. I checked the heat gage and found that whenever it reached past halfway on the heat meter, the problem presented itself again. this led me to believe that it is an electrical problem. the thing is, if the cooling fans aren't working at the same time the A/C and/or the windows, then what is the source of the problem? my question is what is a(n) component(s) that is linked to the windows, A/C, and the cooling fans besides the battery? Please help! THX!: fuse box and relays and power source not battery but wires to the battery, switch's and or sensors, but they are odd things not work at the same time

Q:3amp fuse keeps blowing: defective ignition module

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