FD 2.7-500-10 Wind Generator with High Quality

FD 2.7-500-10 Wind Generator with High Quality

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1. Product Description:

The products are used in areas that benefit from good wind regimes but have little or no electrical grid connection such as; islands, desert and low inhabitation areas, frontier defense posts, microwave and telephone communication stations, forest observation posts, oil pipeline delivery stations, highway lighting etc. Rural and urban applications include, community squares and recreational areas, parks, landscape and scenic locations, resorts, and other ecological areas, applications also include on or off grid national electrified fencing systems. The utilization of wind energy at no on-going cost significantly reduces the environmental impact of fossil fuel usage whilst saving vital energy resources.

2. Product Characteristic:

The products combine unique and innovative design with high reliability. The innovative design has been awarded both Invention and Practical new patents by the State Intellectual Property Department and thereby has totally independent property rights in China, resulting in the market leading position in wind to electrical energy conversion, technical design and efficiency. Key design features such as very low rotation speed result in increased efficiency in comparison to other small turbine systems.

3.Specification：

Type: 3 Blade Upwind

Rotor Diameter: 2.7 m

Start-up Wind Speed: 2.5 m/s (5.6mph)

Cut-in Wind Speed: 3 m/s (6.7 mph)

Rated Wind Speed: 8 m/s (17.9 mph)

Rated Power: 500 Watts

Maximum Power: ~ 700Watts

Furling Wind Speed: 13 m/s (27 mph)

Overspeed Protection: Auto Furl

Temperature Range: -40 to +60 Deg. C (-40 to +140 Deg. F)

Generator: Permanent Magnet Alternator

Output Form: 36 VDC/24VDC Nominal

4. Reference Picture:

FD2.7-500-10Wind generator

Q:have issue with couple of thing on a ford galaxy 1999 2.3 ghia w/airconis there a relay box in it as checked all fuses for the issuse i have and i lost even with the propper manual, rear passenger door wont open or window wont work, air con not workin and the blower that you can switch on to let air at ya face for cold or hot not working. now i havew done loads to the car and so far ive done well but this is bugging - can anyone help. what things have i missed.: Jay the controls for the windows and door are likely a problem in the drivers side control switches as this works as the main switch for all doors. I have seem this often when someone installed door speakers and unhooked the wires from the way they were tied down. the window came down and pulled them damaging the the wires. The A/C system and heater are hard to call over the computer but I can tell you the fan portion is not connected directly to either. it is a rheostat. a dimmer of sorts. The actual fan motor is built with a power and ground connection and is like all other electric 2 wire motors, a positive and a negative. If the motor isn't frozen inside the motor will spin even if the two wires are switched around as this is only changing it's polarity. what will happen though is your fan will draw air out of the cabin instead of pushing air in. It uses a connection screwed into the air box to control the various speeds. the power enters this device and then used power reducing components internally to slow the motor down or speed it up. your switch on the dash for fan speed feeds this controller. If you are saying you are getting no air to your face but the fan is blowing, I think you will find its blowing on the dash board. maybe the feet as well. This is a factory installed default for a problem in the heater or A/C directing system. It was determined that the most critical thing a driver needs when driving is a clear windshield in the cold of winter. You must be able to see ahead and can bundle up with clothes to keep warm. If the system looses the vacuum needed to run the directional doors to send air to your face etc springs will close the doors and direct the air to the windshield over every other place.

Q:I have a 2000 Grand Am GT (3.4l V6), and my power steering has been messing up. I have replaced my rack and pinion, and I have replaced the power steering pump, and it's still not working. I made sure there was no air in the res, when I put the new pump on, and it's still not steering right. The car has an electrical steering assist, and I was wondering, where would the fuse be for that, if there is one?: If it won't steer to the right, you have a broken/loose rack and pinion steering mount or hold down bracket. Have someone turn the wheel as you watch from under the car and you should see it moving around.

Q:I have a 24' sylvania color tv that suddenly stopped working. I discovered that the fuse had blown out but when I replaced it with another one it immediately blew again why would that happen? There were no other components plugged in at the time, just the tv alone.: Because theres something else down the line that made the fuse blow, something shorted. Dont worry most people who replace the fuse happens to them to. Recycle it. or Get it repaired.

Q:Every time I buy a little figurine or annual ornament, I am amazed at how crystal clear the glue is that holds the crystal together.Anyone know what kind of glue that is or what kind you think it might be?: As a bead artist, I don't know what they use in manufacturing their pieces, but I do know they advise the use of epoxy if you're planning on creating pieces using their components! A two-part epoxy, as they suggest, will give you an incredible bond that can withstand most anything, and it does dry clear! I hope this helps!

Q:As stated, I'm going to add an extra CL in my fuse box for an accessory. Would it hurt anything to just add it to the lower gold bolt that already has a ground attached? I'd consider the empty one but I can't get my hand behind it and don't want to not be able to tighten in back up. Thanks for any advice, sorry for the novice question, I'm fairly new to working in my car.: Be careful, a cigarette lighter is a very high amperage draw device. The single existing fuse is only designed for one lighter, so you should consider running a dedicated line from the battery, fuse protected, to your new lighter. However, if you only plan on using the lighter socket for small current draw purposes, like a cell phone charger, then you could be okay tapping into an existing line. As for ground, any existing ground should be okay, as well as adding a new ground to a metal frame or body component.

Q:I was told to replace the distributor and check the fuses. Also to check the wiring from the distributor to the alrenator. Where is all this stuff at and how do I check it The car just stopped and sounds like it is going to start but won't. Thanks: First okorder

Q:could it be something other than the whole component.A friend of mine who is an auto detailer thought it could be a loose wire or fuse or something.Please let me know. It will save me $ 80 more or less: You test wiring by fixing the negative meter wire to a ground, like any unpainted metal attached to the chassis, and then touching the positive to any conductor you want to see if it is hot. For example, the 3rd brake light has a plug. If it has 2 wires, you could just unplug it and put the meter across the 2 terminals. If there is only 1, then use the chassis ground for the meter negative.

Q:I was just wondering what happens when an electrical component or circuit becomes 'shot' as we term it. Now I am studying engineering, and my field has delved slightly into electricity, so I understand electricity to a point. But anyone out their with a good understanding of electricity, what exactly goes wrong? Thanks.: Many things can occur to make a piece of equipment malfunction (you may use the term shot, but others don't). Semiconductors can sometimes grow whiskers, tiny metal fingers that can cause shorts. Semiconductors subjected to thermal cycles can die due to cracks in the die, or leads breaking. You can have bad solder connections on PC boards or connectors that eventually fail. Connectors can wear out from repeated use, or the wires can break in cables. Poorly designed electronics can die early due to voltage or thermal stress, exceeding the ratings of the components. The most common failure mode is around connectors and cables. If I think of the failed electronic devices I have seen in the last 20 years, I can list a PC with a bad memory connector, a PC with a broken key on the keyboards, An electric heater not working on HI, with a faulty overload trip, A scanner with a bad cell. A CRT type TV where the screen brightness slowly faded till it was not usable. And that's about all, the rest are due to obsolescence. .

Q:I lost headlights this morning, replaced bulbs and fuses, nothing. This afternoon my abs and brake lights came on, have brakes just not abs. Definitely a wiring issue, Question Where to start?????: Bulbs fuses okay, then check to see if there's power. If power seems okay, you've got a bad ground somewhere in the front end. A major ground that's bad could also mess with the other two components, if they're grounded at the same point.

Q:Hi guys, I just Blew my guitar amplifer fuse.because it was a unit from the US and Accidentally got the wrong converter here in Shanghai. It so hard looking for a fuse that has the EXACT inscription 2A 250Vall I can find is 2AL 250 Vis this the same type? And do you think the power outage could do some damgae to the amplifier components even after blowing the fuse? I used some emergency fuse to test.so far its working and there are signs of life from this babyany suggestions?perhaps Im jsut being too paranoid and OC?: F2al250v Fuse

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