Pink Panther Insulation

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FAQ

Foam and the new building technolodgy's are coming to New Orleans. The rebuilding is causing New Orleans to be the "Greenest City in America". Energy Efficiency and the proper buiilding techniques tak hold.

And the question is??

What can i do to add more insulation in a addition in my house?The Roof is flat on this addition (no attic room for insulation there).Looks like it's only 4 or 5 inches thick, starts from the inside with 1/2 inch drywall and the rest is plywood, and then that black sheeting on the outside.IS THERE ANYTHING MORE THAT CAN BE DONE TO ADD MORE INSULATION ON THE OUTSIDE?, (i can't do anything on the inside since the ceiling is already low) SINCE IN THIS ROOM IS VERY HOT, even touching the celing feels warm, PLEASE HELP!

You could build a pitched roof on top of the flat roof.

I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like "crawl in") attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.

The reason you do not put insulation directly on the underside of your roof is all about moisture and mold. You need an air gap between the roof and the insulation and allow it to breath. This prevents moisture from condensation that can cause big problems. You could install a radiant barrier that reflects the heat. Do a google search to learn more about it. You could install and attic fan to suck the hot air out in the summer. Most important is to make sure the insulation on the attic floor is the proper thickness.

My home is shaped like a square box. The four corners of the upper level have the roof pitch from the gables protruding into the rooms. The attic has no insulation and I need to insulate it. There is access from the attic to look down into the wall/ceiling that protrudes into the room. I can insulate the attic myself but the surface area of these protrusions is rather large. What would be the best way to get insulation down in there? Shoot the insulation in and poke it with a stick to make sure there is good coverage down in the wall space? The opening is about 6 inches high.Thanks.

You need to have an air space between the roof and your insulation to prevent moisture build up on the inside and ice damming on the exterior. So you want to insulate the ceiling of the room, not the roof. For the angled protruding parts they make inserts that go between the joists to give 1-2" of air space under the roof and you can put insulation under that against the wall of the room. Remember that it's trapped air that insulates so don't overstuff when you push it in there. It sounds like you don't have access behind the vertical walls. You may need to break through the plaster between the studs to get in there and put insulation on the wall of the room and on top of the ceiling below. Then get some sheetrock and spackle to repair the hole you had to make, or you can make an insulated removable panel and use that area for storage. But don't store anything in there that can't take heat/cold.

what action should a plumber take?????

struggling to understand your question! are you talking about a storage tank? what is the problem with the insulation? if it is in the way move it but insulation under a tank is not a problem the tank will need to be insulated any way!

I already have fiberglass in the attic, but would like to add more.

Your best angle is to go with blow in fiberglass. ownes corning and Johns mansville both make good blow in fiberglass. Menards and Home depot in our area will lend you a blow in machine for free but make sure you have 2 people to run it and that you have a TIGHT sealed face mask for the guy in the attic along with safety goggles. No way around it either that guy in the attic is gonna get itchy, so expect that now. I put blow in cellulose over my attic fiberglass bats to bring it up to R-50 but i regret it now. I should have stuck with fiberglass. I did some research after the fact and there is some flammability issues with the cellulose i used and on top of that it is seriously dusty so i cant store anything in the attic space anymore. Cellulose was cheaper and the "green" choice but if i could reverse time I would have gone fiberglass blow in.

the roof of my mouth hurts bad.i worked all day with sawdust and insulation yesterday.is this the problem.?

No it may not be like any type of respiratory disease ,normally this type of soe type of allergy ,if you have any doubt you can consult a doctor but are you suffering from asthma before or any person of your family belongs to this category.

on a traditional pitched roof construction,where is heat insulation usually provided?

Generally, the insulation is blown in loose fiberglass to around 14 inches -- R 38, between the ceiling joists. Radiant barrier roof decking is often used in conjunction with this method, along with excellent attic ventilation to allow heat to escape. Sometimes, with foam insulation in new construction, the foam is installed between rafters, to create air conditioned attic. This is much more expensive, but if done right, can result in greatly lowered energy consumption. This method requires outside air having a way to get into the home, requires special AC and heat equipment, and if the wall insulation and window package aren't up to snuff, much of the effect is lost, resulting in wasted money -- tens of thousands of dollars, literally.