Sucker Rod Abrasion-proof Coupling Using in Oil Well

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1. Structure of Sucker Rod Abrasion-proof Coupling Description

Sucker rod abrasion-proof couplings are class supporting tools of pumping well, it applied to eccentric wear oil pump, especially the oil pump and directional deflecting well in which the eccentric wear is above the neutral point. If the eccentric wear is below the neutral point, it can be used together with the nylon centralizer to get a better eccentric wear prevention result.

The core technology is to coat AOC-160 alloy powder on the surface of sucker rod coupling. The coating which is thicker than 0.25mm is wear resistant, corrosion resistant and low friction. Wear resistance is 10 times of normal coupling and it reduces 3 times of abrasion.

2. Main Features of Sucker Rod Abrasion-proof Coupling

  • Simple structure

  • Convenient operation

  • Long service life

  • Low cost

3. Sucker Rod Abrasion-proof Coupling Images

4. Sucker Rod Abrasion-proof Coupling Specification

Now our Sucker rod abrasion-proof couplings have 3/4", 7/8" and 1" series of specification.

5. FAQ of Sucker Rod Abrasion-proof Coupling

We have organized several common questions for our clients,may help you sincerely:

①How about your company?

One of the leading manufacturers and suppliers specializing in steel pipe products in China, mainly offering four series steel pipes including welded steel pipe (ERW, SSAW, LSAW and square and rectangle pipe), seamless steel pipe, hot dipped galvanized steel pipe and steel pipe with 3 layer polythene coating. We can provide customers different specification standards e.g. ASTM A53, ASTM A106, BS1387, API 5L, API 5CT, ISO3183 and etc. Our scope of supplying covers from 1/2" to 48" for the outside diameter of welded pipes, and 1/8" to 20" for the seamless pipes. 

Other than steel pipes we are also capable of supplying a wide variety of pipeline accessories, steel pipe fittings; valves etc. consists of our one-stop sales. The integrated sales & service ensures customers with various demands an easier access for purchasing management.

②How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management system,every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test;We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

③How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible.

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Q:Is the trachea connected directly to the inside and outside threads? I remember a sealing ring
This problem is too abstract. There are several cases: 1:, if the pipe thread (G, NPT, BSP), only need to use raw tape or liquid TEFLON coated, tighten can be. 2: some joints are sealed by the cone. Sealed by a cone (of a ferrule); some have O rings, others are straight. You can find it on PARKER's product samples. 3: some joints are screwed with M thread. Seal by type O ring or copper gasket. Go to the FESTO, SMC site and find the M connector. 4: there are other types of fast joints. There are too many kinds.
Q:there is a fire hydrant in my front lawn and thepaint on it looks very bad it alsmost makes my lawn look?
Greetings from the northern plains, with not the least bit of amusement over your suffering what we've always dealt with. First, to get it out of the way, do not call this guy back again, as he is ripping you off. I believe it's called profiteering, like the bastards that would spike the price of plywood to $100 a sheet before, or after, a tornado or hurricane. (I would perhaps make this a hobby to go after the guy, his reputation, and his business, as he is one low-life dude, and I can be nasty.) Nuff. Drain cleaning chemicals are intended to dissolve, or at least loosen, clogs such as grease, hair, soap, etc., but not ice. Yes, ice can form in drain lines, especially if not nicely sloped (where there's a sag in a straight run), or at a fitting. Once started, it can accumulate - that's how icicles are formed, a little a time. If the drain pipe leaving the kitchen (likely 1 1/2 pipe) is enclosed above the garage, I'd open up the garage ceiling (if finished), or perhaps the chase it's boxed in with, and warm the pipe with hot air, to get things going. Once done with that, get some insulation under the pipe (in effect getting the pipe into the envelope of the house, not below it). I agree that the yellowish leak may well be the drain cleaner, but the leak also betrays - a leak. Any and all fittings should be inspected. Worst case is actually a cracked drain pipe from the ice, and steel drain pipe (very not likely). PVC or ABS plastic drain pipe is quick and economical to cut out and repair, so buck up. (Personally, I would also exit with an access panel for the next time, not just sealing up with a drywall repair.) In the coldest climates, some might use pipe heating tape as a preventative measure, but I suspect you aren't in one, just caught in this nasty weather. The tape, however is not a good solution to an already-frozen line - it's too slow.
Q:Macbook issues with my "Control" button?
Yeah, either with a credit card or with a paper clip.
Q:What is the best heat setting to cook meatballs?
Whose owns the smoke detectors? Where are you? If you OWN the residence, you are probably not even required to HAVE smoke detectors. In that case, you can do anything you want tot them. If you rent an apartment, or the detectors are not in your residence, you could be guilty of destruction of property ans potential liable for any injuries resulting from the detectors not working.
Q:waking up to an alarm clock?
Make sure you get the pipe fittings glued on well, especially if this is a crawlspace or somesuch where you might not detect a new leak quickly. Next time you cut the pipe, glue in a clean-out fitting. You would still need to own, rent or borrow a snake, but having clean-outs every 50 or 100 ft will make that a lot easier.
Q:Why do some swimming pools prohibit wearing a life jacket or goggles on the diving board?
what sharts around, sharts around, well that didnt make any bukkin sense - no shart shields if you feel bad, hand them some T.P.
There could be a number of things wrong here.The Valve it self could be leaking.One of the PVC pipe fittings could be leaking.Or there is a broken pipe. To shut the water off at the Valve.This can only be done if the Valve has a flow control.If it has a flow control handle,you will see a handle on the top of the Valve. Or you could just turn the water off to the entire Irrigation System.If you are on city water there is what is called a Back Flow Preventer.This is code in most all city water systems.They generally are about 12 inches above the ground,and have one to two Gate or Ball Valves on them.
Q:Why do women's sunglasses seem to be getting bigger and bigger and bigger?
First off, how is this related to Cars Transportation Car Makes GMC, or any part thereof? Second, nobody here can possibly answer this. We have no idea what type of valve, lines and fittings are there already. Without knowing what you're working with, nobody can even begin to help you.
Q:How to open a car door with a phone?
EDIT: There are systems that can install an epoxy liner in an existing sewer lateral. One of many is linked below. They will come into your house with a camera system and run it down the main sewer and find out where the break(s) occur. From there they will install an inflatable pipe within the system that will extrude the new epoxy liner. It may take a few hours, and it will cost about 40% of what a new pipe would cost, but there is little or no digging, and certainly nothing under your house. Ask around in your ara or search No Dig Sewer Repair or similar words. END EDIT. Clay sewer pipe of that vintage used mostly a mortar mix for the sealant - and some very few used rubber gaskets in addition to the mortar. Between settling and normal aging, the joints tend to move a little. And then between heating and cooling, hot water from a bath followed by cold water from a toilet flush, even more stress is put on the joints. Do this for 30 - 40 years and the joints get loose. An air-blaster system will blow the mortar right out of the joints, possibly split the pipes themselves and possibly even move the pipes themselves. It is absolutely the worst possible thing to do with a vitreous-pipe system. Keep in mind that the pipe itself tends to be pretty impervious to wear and tear - it is usually joint failure, movement and roots (causing joint failure and movement) that causes problems. Good luck with it. When/if you have to replace the pipes, consider Schedule 80 PVC if permitted by code. It is much stronger than Schedule 40, and should last at least 100 years, probably much more, if installed correctly. Use 304-stainless no-hub mechanical fittings rated for underground use, *NOT* solvent fittings. Or go straight to ductile iron and similar fittings.
Q:proxy for myspace that can bypass web senses?
Probably because it's been ages since a Face debuted,

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