Submersible Deep Well Pumps 5 Inch Hot Sales

Submersible Deep Well Pumps 5 Inch Hot Sales

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 2100 unit/month

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Basic Info.

Model NO.:5SR15

Performance:Drainage Pump

Start Up:Electric Pump

Media:Water Pump

Application:Submersible Pump, Clarified Water Pump

Type:Blade Pump

Material:Stainless Steel

Power:Electric

Structure:Multistage Pump

Theory:Centrifugal Pump

Assembly:Liquid Pumps

Industry:Household & Agricultural Pump

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Packing:Export Carton

Standard:CE

Production Capacity:10000PCS/Year

Product Description

5 Inch Submersible deep well pump

-Applications
For water supply from wells or reservoirs. For domestic use, for civil and industrial applications. For garden use and irrigation.

-Operating Conditions
Maximum fluid temperature up to +35º C
Maximum sand content: 0.3%
Maximum immersion: 190m
Minimum well diameter: 5 inch

-Motor and Pump
Rewindable motor
Three-phase: 380V-415V, Single-phase: 220V-240
Equip with special start-up control box.
Adopted the NEMA standard
Insulation class: B
Protection grade: IP 68
Intermal diameter of outlet : 2" 2½ "

-Warranty
1 year (according to our general sales conditions)

5 Inch Submersible Deep Well Pumps

Q: I have never had to deal with this and I am probably worrying about nothing but every time I run water, even for a second, the pump starts clicking on and off. Is it supposed to do it with every little thing? Every time the toilet flushes, or the water gets turned on to wash hands it goes off and keeps constantly going off until the water is shut off. Is this what it's supposed to do?: It sounds like your pressure tank has gone bad. Your pump in (short cycling). The blue or silver tank that you have with the pump may or may not have a bladder inside. That bladder is to keep pressure in the line so the pump does not start so often. There is water on one side and air on the other. Sometimes there may not be enough air pressure on the air side. This usually means that the bladder has failed. It also could be that the pressure switch has gone bad or that the low pressure point setting(pump on) and the high pressure point setting (pump off) are set to close together. You will need to have a plumber check this out as soon as possible. If the pump continues to short cycle it will burn the pump out. Good luck.

Q: my water pump has gone south on me and I want to repair it myself any ideas on how to will be greatly appreciated, do to space between the water pump of the engine and the chasi or body of the van that makes working on thi vehicle kind of difficult any knoledgeable instruction will be welcome. thanks for the help. I am in California,the name is Elmer: Here's okorder /

Q: I recently changed the lower unit, and am having no water out the top 2 ports just below the powerhead, also the engine is getting heated up. any other pumps other than in the lower unit?any advice is appreciated.: well on my mercury i have a water impellor/you have that 2 thermostats/dont know if you have them and a popit valve those 3 things check them

Q: So I purchased this car last week. It ran great for three days until it started leaking water so much that it caused it to over heat. My uncle checked it out for me and said it was either the seal or the water pump. Yesterday we replaced the seal and still leaking water. So we now know it is the water pump. My uncle and every mechanic I know has turned down the job saying it is too much work. I even called two small shops yesterday and got turned down saying it was too much work. It is Sunday so most mechanics are closed. Can anyone give me an estimate on how much this will cost. The problem is everyone is saying that the pump is located inside the timing belt which is hard to put back after replacing the pump. Anyone ever have this repair done before or know a price range. I am a college student and need this car running asap and only got about $500 i can put into it. It is a V6 engine.Thanks: 91 Plymouth Acclaim

Q: Hoping that someone may read this.Broke down yesterday after re-filling coolant when car re-heated and mechanic who rescued us advised that the water pump is leaking and requires replacement.Our local garage have advised that to change the water pump also requires a new camber (?) kit and including both and 3.5 hours labour their total quote is ?315.08.This sounds crazy for changing a water pump - can anyone shed any light and reckon that they may be taking the mickey?Am not technical so wouldn't attempt to do work myself, however if we go back to garage, or to others, I'd like to know exactly what work needs doing.Thanks!: When the necessary water-pump is replaced 90% of the parts will be removed anyway to access replacement of the timing belt. In other words, the mechanic will have already removed the water-pump and just a few more parts will need to be removed to change the timing belt. If you haven't had the timing belt changed in the past 50,000 -75,000 KM it's wise to have it done now rather than later when the water-pump will have to be removed to change only the belt. If the belt happens to break somewhere down the road it *could raise hell with the valve train and pistons costing more pounds and kilos of money to repair. I only offer this advice as a wise preventative maintenance measure!

Q: 97 izusu rodeo has constant squeal after timing belt, water pump and all belts being replaced what could be the cause. It sounds pretty bad.: If the timing belt is slipping the car wouldn't run. Chances are it's either the one that drives the AC or power steering unit. Make sure there's no oil on them they're the right size and properly tensioned.

Q: Motor has over 200k miles. Water pump took a dump. Gear is very wobbly! primary timing chain tensioner off the right bank hasn't any tension on chain at all! Crank turns but doesn't turn the chain. So motor is way out of time for sure now.Found small piece of aluminum and 2 -1/2pieces of appears to be a spring pin. Am I correct to assume these pieces are from the water pump? A new chain and water pump I can see doing on this old motor! But? Any suggestions on what to do next before I waste my money? What kind of compression reading can I get with all the plugs out and manually turning the crank? Short answers of scrap it not welcomed! I'll determine that after I'm satisfied it's truly bad! Thanks!: I also own a 2001 Intrepid and recently had a water pump go bad which also broke my timing chain. The pieces of aluminum you found are probably valves or valve springs from the head. Mine broke every vavle and spring on one head when my engine jumped time and a few more on the other head that is probably what your seeing. Also you don't want to check for compression by turning the crank manually. It is an expensive job to fix but the cars are great but I wouldn't spend too much on them because they only go for about $3000-3700 in great condition nowadays. Good Luck

Q: I have a 1995 Honda Civic LX 1.5L that needs the water pump and timing belt replaced. What all part do I need to order to replace all of that?: You need timming belt water pump and water pump silicon the tools for the jobs also. it is not a easy job to do just so you know. Make sure you have a chilton book for the info you need to make sure timming belt is put on right with the cam lined up.

Q: After the pump has the control box, but also the power distribution box, the control box and the distribution box is not the same box?: This look at the specific situation, the water pump circuit is divided into power, power and control signal two parts,They can be placed in a larger cabinet, which is convenient for future inspection and repair.There is power and signal is separated from the general distribution box and put some air contactors, frequency converter etc.,There are some buttons, lights, etc. in the control box.

Q: The dealership wants nearly $500. to replace the water pump in our 2002 Tahoe (5.3) it's leaking from the weep hole. I'm somewhat mechanically declined, what precautions will I need to know and any special tools to do the job myself? I've done a few water pumps back in the 1980's that didn't leak Thank you: Not much different than changing the water pump on a 1980 chevy 350. Actually i personally would say its easier. Main thing you will need is a special wrench to remove the fan clutch you can usually rent one from a discount auto parts store. Pump is about 120 bucks, i would put in a thermostat while your down there it bolts on to the inlet of the water pump.

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