Fiberglass Bathroom Ceiling Panels - Soundproof Fiberglass Tiles & Panels
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 4000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 20000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
You Might Also Like
Specifications:
Main Material: Fiberglass wool
Density: Standard 100kgs/m3
Thickness: 15mm,20mm, 25mm and etc.
Size: 600*600mm,600*1200mm and etc.
Textures: White painted, Mix Acoustic, White Spray, BlackSpray
Edge: Square, Tegular for 15/24 grids, Concealed
Black spray White spray
Mix Acoustic White painted
Fiberglass acoustic ceiling tiles decoration material
Quick Detail:
Non-combustible;
No sagging, warpping or delaminating;
Green building material;
Excellent sound absorption;
With different pattern available;
Applications:
Halls, Classrooms, Offices, Shopping centers, etc.
Competitive Advantages:
Fire-resistant;
Thermal-insulation;
Humidity-resistant;
Cleanability;
Environmental;
Elegant;
Safety and Convenience;
- Q: We had a plaster ceiling that was cracking. We put new drywall up over the ceiling and finished the seams. We have finished drywall before, but only on wall. Apparently ceilings are alot harder. We have a tetured wall and really do not want a texture on the ceiling (we would never be able to match the textures anyway). We have primed and painted the ceiling with flat paint and can see the seams. We do not have alot of light in the room either. Does anyone have any suggestions to hide the seams? Thanks
- One problem I can see is that your joints may not be flush which makes the problem worst. If they are level with each other, apply your tape and then apply an 8 wide coat over that feathering the edges. Let dry and lightly sand rough spots. Go back over with a 10, resand to where it looks smooth but don't worry about divits or small blemishes. Finally Go over it with 12 knife with a tight coat. Your basically putting it on and taking it off with more pressure just to fill in any blemishes. Then lightly sand. Make sure to use lightweight joint compound for finishing. If it is uneven, you must do a coat on each side of the joint, sometimes 3 or 4 rows of mud to get it to where you cannot feel a ridge running your hand over it. Remember the wider that you feather it out, the smoother it will look. As for texturing, you can leave it smooth if you want. But texture will hide small blemishes. You can use knockdown, popcorn (acoustic) or stomp the ceilings with a pattern. Use flat paint afterwords.
- Q: What equipment they need to build a studio, there is no detailed list and price. Mainly recording the kind of studio studio.
- As the production of the program, the sound effect is higher, so the indoor wall or the construction of sandwich wall approach to solve, if conditions, in the sandwich put some soundproof glass fiber and other effects better. The choice of doors and windows can be used acoustic doors, double windows, and in the doors and windows plus nail insulation materials. The overall noise rating of NG is generally 25-30 (based on architectural design). The size of the suction volume should be based on the need. The sound volume is small, the whole sound reverberation time is long, it sounds like a rich and plump. The sound volume is large, the whole sound reverberation time is short, it sounds very clear. In order to make the size of the suction volume can be suitable for the needs of indoor ceilings and walls can be used with the corresponding sound-absorbing materials such as porous sound-absorbing material, or the shape of the wall structure; perforated plate resonant sound absorption structure;
- Q: I have a 120 year old house w/ a flat roof, no attic and no insulation. I have a dropped ceiling on the top floor - drop is about 5". Ceiling tiles are not insulated. I plan on getting insulation and having it rest on top of the ceiling tiles.I live in Pittsburgh, PA where we get hot summers and cold winters. What would be a better insulation - traditional fiberglass or radiant? Radiant appeals to me since installation is easier, but if it won't be as effective, I won't do it. Thanks!
- get cellulose. fiberglass will melt in you have a fire, then your house will burn. cellulose while it is paper, will not burn. it has borax and other fire retardant things in it.
- Q: We have an area in our ceiling that had water damage a few years ago and we repaired it ourselves for a quick fix. We never got around to actually getting it professionally repaired, but had never had any issues so it wasn't something we were worried about. About 3 days ago we noticed that there was a hole, about an inch long, I'm the crease of the ceiling where it meets the wall in the same place we had repaired. We don't know if maybe there is a mouse in the wall chewing a hole, if the house finally settled to the point where it cracked our repair job, or if there is another answer. It appears that the holes are only in the drywall tape and not in the drywall itself. Does anyone have any suggestions on what could be going on our who we could call in to inspect this?
- I would suspect mold - esp. since moisture was a problem.
- Q: between 12 inches and 24 inches thick hallowblocks ceiling
- For ceiling the 24 inch thick is slightly better, but not for roof as more afternoon heat is stored in the increased mass of the 24 inch blocks. If the ceiling hollows are filled with fiberglass or rockwool, a 2% reduction in electric consumption is possible as the convection currents are reduced for both 12 inch and 24 inch hollow blocks. Neil
- Q: Is there any decoration material that can replace the glass on the sliding door?
- In general, now pay attention to environmental protection Environmental materials are more rest assured that the general home decoration materials can be divided into wall materials, ground materials, decorative lines, the top materials and fasteners, connectors and adhesives and other five categories
- Q: We have removed our rough sawn cedar from our cathedral ceiling in our 80's home. We found fiberglass insulation and 2x6 joists (the roof is directly above). The first electrician came out before we removed the ceiling and assumed there was no insulation and said we needed to get spray insulation because of the condensation can lights can cause. The other electrician we called out came after we removed the ceiling and did not say anything about condensation. Neither said anything about ice dams. I am seeing all this pretty scary stuff when doing my research, and am thinking we shouldn't put in recessed lighting now! We live in Wyoming where the climate can be pretty cold, but is usually very dry.So, if we use LED lamps and IC airtight housings, will the heat transfer really be bad enough to cause condensation and/or ice dams? Would it help to put some foam board between the shallow housings and the roofing substrate (if it fits)? We are only planning on putting up 6 6" lights in a 10x20 room...
- I highly recommend you beef up the structure of your ceiling rafters and that will solve multiple issues I see in this project. That will give you plenty of clearance for lighting fixtures and it will also allow for more insulation along with proper ventilation. If it were my ceiling I would sister a minimum of 2 x 10 lumber to the sides of the existing 2 x 6 rafters you now have. Those 2 x 6 rafters are way under size for heavy snow loads and the current space in no way allows for enough insulation. I have done this exact kind of thing in my home when I used excess attic space to build a large multipurpose room. I nailed and used construction adhesive to attach or sister beefy 2 x 10's to the sides of each of my existing roof rafters. Then I could properly insulate the ceiling of the new room along with making the structure much stronger. The extra thickness of the space won't be noticeable at all when the ceiling is put back in but you'll have a much safer and sturdier roof and ceiling. If you're doing this project with a building permit then what I've described above will be required by the building inspector for sure. You will have to meet the building code for the R value of the insulation etc etc. But, even if you're doing this without involving the building dept, it will be in your best interest to beef up the lumber and add the additional insulation anyway. It will be a very small additional cost to pay considering the savings you'll recoup in energy bill not to mention the overall safety factor. Do a search on sistering roof rafters and you can find a good bit of info online if what I've said doesn't make sense to you. If I can give you additional advice or help you find more info online please get in touch. Good luck and I hope this helps!
- Q: What would be a good cheap insulation for a basement ceiling or wall?
- put fiber glass insulation between joists and then seal with stapled plastic sheeting before drywalling ceiling. The plastic sheeting itself may do quite a bit.
- Q: My studio apartment doesn't have an attic. A lot of the installation videos and articles I read online are about installing foil insulation a couple inches below the roof and above the room's ceiling. Does it matter if I install it under the ceiling (that is, the foil barrier is visible to me when inside the apartment)?Aesthetics isn't an issue. I don't mind seeing the foil. I just want to know if I can still achieve the same results whether or not I install above the ceiling. Thanks!
- The foil would only radiate visible light back toward you, and fiberglass insulation ( or rigid polyisocyanurate panels covered with drywall) would create a barrier to keep the heat in your room. If just foil worked, you would assume no one would bother with installing 10 thick fiberglass to achieve an R-38 rating and spend thousands of dollars if a couple hundred of foil would do it.
- Q: What are the active lime use?
- First, the preparation of lime mortar and lime milk coating Lime mortar from lime paste and sand, water mixed together, can be used as the wall, the ceiling of the plaster. Lime milk is made from lime cream and is often used as a paint for interior and ceiling. Second, the preparation of lime and triad soil Lime: lime + clay. Triad: lime + clay + sand, stone or slag and other fillers. Can be widely used as the basis of the building, the road or the ground cushion. Third, the production of carbonized lime board The calcined lime board is a lightweight sheet made of ground lime, fibrous filler (such as glass fiber) or lightweight aggregate (such as slag), and then made by artificial carbonization. It is suitable for non-load bearing inner wall panel , Ceiling and so on. Fourth, the production of silicate products Grinding of lime or lime powder and sand or granulated blast furnace slag, slag, fly ash and other siliceous materials by ingredients, mixing, molding, and then pressure or high pressure steam curing, can be made of dense or porous silicate products The Such as lime sand bricks, fly ash bricks and blocks, aerated concrete blocks and so on. Fifth, the preparation of clinker-free cement Will have a certain activity of the material (such as granulated blast furnace slag, fly ash, coal gangue ash and other industrial waste), according to the appropriate proportion of lime with the common grinding, can be obtained with hydraulic cementing material, that is No clinker cement.
Send your message to us
Fiberglass Bathroom Ceiling Panels - Soundproof Fiberglass Tiles & Panels
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 4000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 20000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
Similar products
Hot products
Hot Searches
Related keywords
