Fiberglass Acoustic Ceiling Density 100K

Ref Price:
Loading Port:
Payment Terms:
Min Order Qty:
3000 m²
Supply Capability:
50000 m²/month

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product

Order On-line Tracking

Timely Delivery

OKorder Service Pledge

Credit Rating

Credit Services

Credit Purchasing

Share to:

Product Description:


The tiles are manufactured from high density fiberglass wool.The visible face has a decorative fiberglass tissue and the back of the tile is covered with normal tissue.The four edges of the tile are sealed and have grooves. It can be jointed together without suspended system. The tiles will cover the suspension system after installation. They are are suitable for loe flap ceiling space and concrete-made, wooded-made or gymsum ceiling.


Installation method:

Use screw to fix the smooth roof. The tiles can be connected after making grooves on each two jointed edges.

Tiles are easy to trim and install

Both inches and metric grids are available


Main Characteristic:


No sagging,wrapping or delaminating

Green building material

Excellent sound absorption



Halls,classrooms,offices,shopping centers.etc.

Acoustic fiberglass ceiling contains a better perfomance in tension strong, light weight, so it is easy to trim and install for interior decoration, with T-grids for suspension system or glue, nail or good material could come with fiberglass ceiling baord. Thus an excellent artical work need a high quality acoustic ceiling board, also high quality.

Energysaving is a trend for our 21' era, new product like fiberglass ceiling tile could in place of traditional products one day. Which depends on functional characters: little deflection of geometry dimention, no radiocative property, specific activity of 226Ra: Ira ≤1.0 and specific activity of 226 Ra 232 Th, 40 K: Ir ≤ 1.3. Both products and packages can be recycled.

Send a message to us:

Remaining: 4000 characters

- Self introduction

- Required specifications

- Inquire about price/MOQ

Q:How do you mount a car on the ceiling so it looks like it crashed through the roof?
Talk to a junkyard. Buy just the front corner parts (fender, headlight, grill), cut them and screw them to a piece of plywood. Screw the plywood to the ceiling joists. OR: make a paper-mache mold of the front corner of a car, add real headlights and part of the grill. Screw to plywood, just like the other.
Q:Upstairs noise how can we install sound insulation material can have effect?
A method can be taken in the upstairs to do noise insulation layer, this method can effectively reduce the ground crash sound with the air, and now some domestic real estate developers have been in the construction phase of the floor to do the floor noise treatment.
Q:How does the decoration project prevent molds from wet weather?
Use professional moisture-proof ceilings, such as Saint-Gobain. Jieke's moisture-proof gypsum board, or fiberglass ceilings.
Q:Is there any decoration material that can replace the glass on the sliding door?
With ordinary glass can be
Q:How do I tape the wall and ceiling sheetrock?
On a full sheet, the factory edge is dished down for taping. When to factory edges are stacked together, or nailed one along the other, use mesh tape, this is a freebie. Fill it up with a 5-6 knife and wipe off excess with 9 or 12 . On the long side of a full sheet this edge is not tapered and is called the butt end. Two sheets nailed together is the butt ends. This is optional. Mesh is easier, paper tape is better. Corners take paper tape. Spread a coat of mud with either a flat knife to both sides or use a inside corner trowell that does both sides. Crease tape into 90 angle. Lightly slide into corner, hold with left hand, and strech an place lightly with the other. Take your corner trowell and run over paper tape lightly spreading out mud, and tape. If there are any blister areas, you didn't get enough mud on the wall. Lightly lift tape and mush some more mud under the tape. Resmooth out the mess the best you can. On corner bead, nail evenly from center up and center down with opposing nails. Cover these with a coat of mud with a 6 knife and pretend like you know what you're doing and have a little fun.The drywall god's wisdom is this. After the first coat has completely dried(overnight) do not sand. Take you knife and knock off high chuncks and spread another coat. After it has dried completely, knife again and put on your last coat. You should be looking good by now. Then you can lightly sand. Don't bother with a sponge if you want a truely good job, because they follow the contour of what's there. Lightly sand and it should come out puss.
Q:Melamine resin and polypropylene made of plastic bowl is better
There are many types of plastic products, a lot of classification methods.
Q:What is the specific waterproofing of the bathroom?
Polyurethane waterproof coating general approach is as follows: 1, the ground to the direction of the ground to find slope, cement mortar or bean concrete can be, but the surface to be flat. Near the door slope is small, the gap near the slope, according to the specific situation to master. 2, the pipeline to wear the floor of the root, to strengthen the waterproof. Tube root construction seal seal, cement smoothing foot protection, brush waterproof coating when the paste from the wire to strengthen the layer 1 to 2 layers. The same measures around the floor drain. 3, the wall to deal with clean plain light without floating ash, small particles, wall ground junction to wipe the original angle or slope angle. Brush waterproof coating when the glass cloth to strengthen the layer 1 to 2 layers. 4, the total thickness of polyurethane waterproof coating requires more than 1.5 mm. Can not rely on the number of decisions. Root, corner reinforcement layer at the first brush, room temperature 4h dry, and then a large area of ​​brushing, Tu scraping. There is no leakage scraping, bubbling phenomenon. Large area brushing 24h curing after brushing the next layer. 5, first brushing the facade after brushing the plane, the next brushing direction and the vertical again. The last time the film semi-curing, throwing coarse sand particles, easy to combine with the cement mortar in the future. 6, the ground waterproof layer should be painted out of the bathroom door outside the 300 wide. Waterproof surface waterproof layer should be higher than the ground 200, a shower bathroom wall waterproof layer should be higher than the ground 1800 (L8 recommended full wall waterproof).
Q:Insulating basement ceiling-questions?
you need to address the problem at it's source. Installing insulation will be marginal at best as the sound waves will still travel down the joists away from the source of the squeaking. Installing pad and carpet will help upstairs to some degree, but not below. Try to identify the exact, or as close as possible, locations of the squeaking floor boards. Take some long shims ( 12 or so ), coat both sides with adhesive and gently drive them between the flooring and the joists until they are snug. Repeat as necessary. Allow to cure overnight and retest for squeaks. If any areas remain, check to be sure there is not another source of the squeaking such as bridging being loose, straps for plumbing or ductwork being loose or a cracked joist.
Q:Recessed lighting on cathedral ceiling - disaster?
I highly recommend you beef up the structure of your ceiling rafters and that will solve multiple issues I see in this project. That will give you plenty of clearance for lighting fixtures and it will also allow for more insulation along with proper ventilation. If it were my ceiling I would sister a minimum of 2 x 10 lumber to the sides of the existing 2 x 6 rafters you now have. Those 2 x 6 rafters are way under size for heavy snow loads and the current space in no way allows for enough insulation. I have done this exact kind of thing in my home when I used excess attic space to build a large multipurpose room. I nailed and used construction adhesive to attach or sister beefy 2 x 10's to the sides of each of my existing roof rafters. Then I could properly insulate the ceiling of the new room along with making the structure much stronger. The extra thickness of the space won't be noticeable at all when the ceiling is put back in but you'll have a much safer and sturdier roof and ceiling. If you're doing this project with a building permit then what I've described above will be required by the building inspector for sure. You will have to meet the building code for the R value of the insulation etc etc. But, even if you're doing this without involving the building dept, it will be in your best interest to beef up the lumber and add the additional insulation anyway. It will be a very small additional cost to pay considering the savings you'll recoup in energy bill not to mention the overall safety factor. Do a search on sistering roof rafters and you can find a good bit of info online if what I've said doesn't make sense to you. If I can give you additional advice or help you find more info online please get in touch. Good luck and I hope this helps!
Q:What are the commonly used materials for store decoration?
With the sale of something related to your problem is too big, one day endless. You have to buy clothes, it is impossible to install a noodle look out of the way ah

1. Manufacturer Overview

Year Established
Annual Output Value
Main Markets
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name  
Validity Period  

3. Manufacturer Capability

a)Trade Capacity  
Nearest Port
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b)Factory Information  
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range