screened control cables,plastic insulated,copper cores

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Product Description:

Specifications

1.unshielded control cable
2.IEC BS DIM Standard
3.ISO,BCC,VDE,IQAC,CCC certification
4.Factory direct

1.U0/U :300/500V,450/750v

2.Standard: IEC60227, BS6500, VDE0250, GB/T9330 .

3.Max.working temperature:70°C, can be 90°C and 110°C as per requirement

4.Cores:2,3,4,5,7,8,10,12,14,16,19,24,27,30,37,44,48,52 and 61

5.Cross section area:0.50~10mm2  

6.Color:black or as per requirement

7.Certification:ISO9001, ISO14001,OHSMS18001,CCC,etc.

8.OEM can be available

Application:

The products are suitable for the wiring of electrical controlling equipments and instrument,monitoring and controlling return circuit,electrical protection and measurement in power distribution unit under the circumstance that the rated voltage is up to 450/750V AC.

 

The long-time working temperature of conductor of PVC insulated cable is 70°C

The long-time working temperature of conductor of XLPE insulated cable is 90oC

The temperature for laying the cables can not be lower than 0°C .Permissible bending radius(r):unarmoured cable:r≥6D;(D: outer diameter of the cable);armoured or copper-tape screened cable:r≥12D;shielded flexible cable:r≥6D

examples:

PVC insulated control cable

PVC insulated and sheathed control cable

PVC insulated and sheathed braid shield control cable

PVC insulated and sheathed Cu tape armored shield control cable

PVC insulated and sheathed aluminum tape armored shield control cable

PVC insulated and sheathed steel tape armored control cable

PVC insulated and sheathed Cu tape armored shield control steel tape armored control cable

PVC insulated and sheathed steel wire braid control cable

PVC insulated and sheathed soft control cable

PVC insulated and sheathed braid shield soft control cable

 XLPE insulated control cable

XLPE insulated PVC sheathed control cable

XLPE insulated PVC sheathed braid shield control cable

XLPE insulated PVC sheathed Cu tape armored shield control cable

XLPE insulated PVC sheathed aluminum tape armored shield control cable

XLPE insulated PVC sheathed steel tape armored control cable

XLPE insulated PVC sheathed Cu tape armored shield control steel tape armored control cable

XLPE insulated PVC sheathed steel wire braid control cable

 

Flame-retardant control cable

PVC insulated and sheathed flame-retardent A(B\C\D) control cable

PVC insulated and sheathed braid shield flame-retardent A(B\C\D)control cable

 

Fire-safe property control cable

PVC insulated and sheathed fire-safe A(B\C\D) control cable

PVC insulated and sheathed braid shield fire-safe A(B\C\D) control cable

 

Low-smoke halogenfree polyolefin control cable

XLPE/ Low-smoke halogenfree polyolefin insulated Low-smoke halogenfree polyolefin sheathed flame­-retardant A(B\C\D) control cable

XLPE/ Low-smoke halogenfree polyolefin insulated braid shield Low-smoke halogenfree polyolefin sheathed flame­-retardant A(B\C\D)control cable

Fluoroplastics insulated heat-resistance control cable

F46 insulated and sheathed heat-resistance control cable

F46 insulated and sheathed heat-resistance soft control cable

Silican rubber insulated heat-resistance control cable

Silican rubber insulated and sheathed heat-resistance control cable

Silican rubber insulated and sheathed heat-resistance soft control cable

Intrinsically safe circuit control cable

PVC insulated and sheathed intrinsically safe (soft) control cable

PVC insulated and sheathed braid shield intrinsically  safe (soft) control cable

PVC insulated and sheathed Cu tape-armored shield intrinsically  safe


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Q:6-pin PCI Express supplementary power connector?
The 6 pin power cable will not come from the motherboard. It will come from the power supply unit into the card. Check your PSU has one before you buy the card. You may need to buy a new PSU but most of them do have it.
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You have a TV that draws 9 amps from a 117 v.a.c. power line? That's roughly a kilowatt. You could run three 55-inch LED sets for that, with power to spare. Or does your TV operate from a 12-volt d.c. source, like for a boat or RV? That would make more sense, 108 watts total. In that case, using the wrong power cable could be at least a theoretical hazard. I'd wait for the proper cable. If you'll update your post with the make and model of your TV and what you're powering it from, you might get a better answer. Your location would also help, at least which country due to different a.c. power systems. ----------------------- Followup, per your added details: now I get it--you have a power cord that's rated at 7 or 9 amps, not a TV that draws that much. That's entirely different. Your TV/DVD combo will use a maximum of about 150 watts, which means it will draw just a little over one amp. So any power cord you can find that fits properly and is rated at something like 3 amps or more will be fine.
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You can go out and find a splitter or remove your floppy drive and get an usb floppy drive if uyou really need it
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in addition to what ed said. if you drill through a firewall or bulkhead install a grommet or use a piece of rubber tubing [hose] to protect the wire. also make sure that where you drill,nothing is behind it. ruining your evaporator or heater core normally means that the dash will have to come out for repairs on most cars ,nothing cheap here.and pinching cable around a hinge or other movable part is begging for a fire. i see this sort of crap all the time and i wonder how these owners get up and down the road without hurting someone or themselves. take your time and don't cheap the job out, most cases another twenty minutes and 5.00 dollars of parts would have resulted in a solid installation instead of a burned out hulk.
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Check first for any factory made holes that are not in use or have extra space to be used. If you are explorer is anything like my Taurus I would say somewhere near where your steering wheel connects to the firewall. But it will be kinda risky around that area since you would have to be careful for your power steering.
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Well... if they're the big white plastic plugs, then you aim the clip for the notch and you're good to go. If they're the smaller plugs that look amazingly like jumpers... then your motherboard should have come with a diagram to show how to plug them in. If not, look on the motherboard and see if you see metal pins with text closeby that says things like PWR SW or RST or HDD LED or PWR LED, or something similar. Generally, the text will point in the direction that the plug needs to go. Also, you generally want to make sure that the open metal part of the plug faces towards the inside of the two rows of metal pins (should be a row of 4 and a row of 5). Hope that helps.
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