QB Series Peripheral Pumps with Brass Impeller

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$65.00 - 150.00 / unit
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TT or LC
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1 unit
Supply Capability:
500 unit/month

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Product Description:

1. Application of QB Series Peripheral Pumps:

1>  Clean Water without abrasive particles, non-aggressive liquid.

2>  Domestic use.

3>  In particular for delivering water in combination with small pressure sets and for irrigation.

4>  Installed in enclosed places, or at least protected against inclement weather.

2.  Operating conditions for QB Series Peripheral Pumps:

1> Suction lift up to 8m.

2> Liquid temperature up to +40℃

3> Ambient temperature up to +40℃。

4> Max. working pressure: 6bar.

3.  Motor description of QB Series Peripheral Pumps:

1> 2-pole induction motor: 50Hz.

2> Insulation: Class B.

3> Protection:  IP44.

4> With capacitor and thermal overload protection.

4.  Material of QB Series Peripheral Pumps:

1> Pump body: Cast Iron.

2> Motor bracket: Aluminum.

3> Impeller: Brass.

4> Shaft with rotor: Stainless steel or CS45#

5> Mechanical seal: Ceramic-Graphite.

6> Copper Winding.

5. Detailed specification for QB Series Peripheral Pumps:

QB Series Peripheral Pumps with Brass Impeller

6. FAQ

1). Can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

2). Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

3). How long is your warranty?

Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.

QB Series Peripheral Pumps with Brass Impeller

QB Series Peripheral Pumps with Brass Impeller


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Q:why is my water pump keep going on and off only when i use it?
Sounds like the thermal is cycling. Check it and clean out debris. (overheating)
Q:Water well pump, always on??
In the first place the pump should be able to run constantly without a problem, they're made to do this. In the second place go check your tank, see what the pressure is. You must have a water logged tank First: unplug the electric to the pump and then drain the tank completely. Once this is done make sure the tank is drained, plug it back in, wait and see where it stops at, the pressure. It should be about 55 to 65 pounds. When it stops have someone flush the toilet, it should slowly go down, it may settle without turning on, some do. If so, flush it again. Watch it again. When it starts up, keep your eye on it, it should go back to where it was to start with. If it doesn't then the volume control on the end of the tank, with the small tubing coming from it to the switch is out and should be replaced. You have to turn it all off again, drain the tank and replace the volume control. If the switch doesn't stop but, it comes to the end and doesn't open to stop and keeps running, then your switch control is shot and you'll have to replace that. If you have a bladder tank, it should say on the side, then you should empty the tank, as in the upper questions and then using an air pump put in about 38 pounds or whatever the tank says to put in the bladder, then fill it with water again. See if that's the problem.
Q:How to measure the temperature of pump body?
Pump body temperature in general, with the hands feel good, and when the hand arrived, can not accept, the pump will have a problem. Specific by their touch cooked.
Q:To Get At The Timing Belt On a Toyota 3.4L V6, Does The Water Pump Need To Be Removed?
does the water pump first need to be removed? no. but is exposed during the procedure. ----- If so, is there a way to tell how worn a water pump with 85,000 miles is? Like a loose bearing feel, etc? you can check for pulley noise, pulley wobble and coolant condition as a precursor to it's failure, but even if it passes that inspection, it may fail in 1000 miles (example). that's the nature of consumable components. ------ since it costs 300-400 in labor to do those individually, it behooves one to put them both on the same maint schedule. replace both at same time. needed or not. every 90,000 miles. and this is a non interference type engine. no engine damage will occur as a result of belt failure alone. FYI, since it's not an interference engine, if this be an autotrans, you could go longer between belt changes as autotrans have smoother torque apps. purdy much constant torque. my V6 has over 200,000 miles on the belt. water pump too. and i have pristine coolant and no pulley noise. and i'm pushing my luck. i run the risk of a towing bill.
Q:Would a Timing Belt break a Water Pump?
As far as I know, Neon's do not have interference engines. A bad water pump can cause the belt to snap, not usually the other way around.
Q:High temperature water pump to boost pressure?
Well, you have to have a mixer valve if your temps are over 140F If I understand you correctly, you could put your mixer valve on the gravity fed hot water and then the output of the mixer valve goes to the inlet of a pump that can handle 140F. Then you don't need a mixer on the hot water tank in the house. And finding a pump that can handle that temp will be a lot easier. Also, storing high temp water is very inefficient. The higher the delta Temp is from the water to the ambient surroundings, then the lower the efficiency. You could save just as much energy in the water by increasing your water tank size and lowering your temp. For instance a 100 gallons of water close to boiling has the same stored energy as 150 gallons of 140F water. And you don't need a mixer at that point and you don't need a special pump either. I'm assuming you are using storage on the roof with a thermosyphon? Can you add more water storage next to that one?
Q:What is the reason that the centrifugal pump outlet pressure decreases and the operating current increases?
The outlet pressure decreases, indicating a decrease in speed. The increase of the current shows that the load has increased. Generally speaking, the resistance of rotating parts increases. Check that the bearings of the pump and motor are damaged as soon as possible. As soon as you replace it, you will be able to return to normal. If this is done for a long time, the motor is likely to burn out
Q:how can you tell if your water pump in your car is going bad?
Prior to the cars coolant getting hot, remove the radiator cap and start the engine. Let it run for 5 minutes or so. Look into the radiator and see if the coolant is moving like a jacuzzi. If the coolant is swishing around strongly, the pump is good, if not, wait another 5 minutes for the thermostat to open. If after waiting, the coolant still has no movement, I would say the thermostat may be stuck closed. Unless there is a leak or noise coming from the water pump, don;t worry about it. They tell you when a problem is present. Noises or leaks will be the sign of a bad pump. If you see none of these signs, don't worry and enjoy your trip. Good Luck...
Q:problem with calpump pw1200 water pump?
CLR soak. Remove the calcium and lime from the tap water use. I would use a 50/50 solution in the inlet and give it 30 min then plug it back in with the in and out in a bucket with the 50/50 mix until it runs like new.
Q:how to replace water pump in a 96 F150?
1. drain coolant 2. remove engine fan and clutch assembly 3. remove radiator hose connection at water pump 4. remove water pump 5. clean water pump to engine mating surfaces 6. install water pump with water pump gasket 7. rest of installationin reverse order of removal

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