Porcelain Tiles, Full polished porcelain tiles

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China main port
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1324 m²
Supply Capability:
132400 m²/month

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Key Specifications of Porcelain Tiles, Full polished porcelain tiles

Full Polished porcelain tiles

Great natural stone image and high glossy degree

Both silk printing and ink-jetting product available

Suitable for homes flooring tiles, high grade office buildings, high-grade hotel flooring tiles, government and corporate projects flooring tiles, deluxe clubs flooring and wall tiles

Water absorption:<0.3%

Sizes:600*600mm  800 x 800mm and 1200 x 600mm

Product features: resistance to fading, staining and discoloration, easy to clean

Package: carton + strong wooden pallet

Transportation: by sea

Advantages of  Porcelain Tiles, Full polished porcelain tiles:

The porcelain polished floor tiles are non-slip and easy clean and with natural veins.

The porcelain polished tiles are hardness, which are resistant to acid and alkali, waterproof, wear resistance, dirt resistacne.

Good for indoor wall and floor decorations. Elegance, promote your decorate style.

The porcelain polished tiles with high quality are ideal for creating a beautiful feel in Hotel, House, Supermarket, Shopping Mall, etc

The porcelain polished tiles ,water absorption rate :<0.1%.< span="">

Many colors can be chosen.

The porceline tiles have 600*600,800*800 sizes, special sizes available according to request.

CE: GB/T19001-2008¬¬—ISO9001:2008

This is the best tile for hotel lobby flooring, airport, big project etc..

We have many different color and different design in this series. Please kindly check our website.

It's good for house flooring, super market, shopping mall, warehouse flooring, etc..

Our price is very competitive, and very good quality.

We have many certificates of our tiles

Main Export Markets Porcelain Tiles, Full polished porcelain tiles:


Central/South America

Eastern Europe

Mid East/Africa

North America

Western Europe

Product Pictures Porcelain Tiles, Full polished porcelain tiles:

Porcelain Tiles, Full polished porcelain tiles


Porcelain Tiles, Full polished porcelain tiles

Porcelain Tiles, Full polished porcelain tiles

Porcelain Tiles, Full polished porcelain tiles

Porcelain Tiles, Full polished porcelain tiles

Porcelain Tiles, Full polished porcelain tiles

Porcelain Tiles, Full polished porcelain tiles

Porcelain Tiles, Full polished porcelain tiles




1. What is the production period?

    Within one month.

2. What is the payment term?

    Both T/T and L/C are OK.

3. Could you please provide the samples?

   Yes, we can provide you the free samples.

4. What is the package?

   4pcs/carton, 40carton/pallet, 960carton/container

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Q:What is the white powder on the back of the floor tiles?
Is the end of the powder, the production process must have some raw materials Does not affect the combination of tiles and cement Can ignore its existence
Q:How to remove 70s mosaic floor tile?
A lot depends on just how its layed and the substrate that it s over. I ve seen tiles done over a thin plywood, in which case you use a hammer, bust it up and remove the ply wood and all and start new. The tile could be on a mud bed in which you can either use a hammer and wide masonry chisel and go along and chisel then off . Then you can decide to remove the mud bed or go over top and reuse that substrate. Pull the stool or an in floor heat vent , if you have one, and you can determine what is under the tile. What looks like hardwood in the hall ( I can t tell for sure), and if the tile is semi flush with that, chances are its a mud bed. I m don t think its a cement board since you say it was done in the 70s and cement board wasn t invented untill the mid 70s. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:My house to decorate, who knows how the Villets tile ah?
Never heard this brand, is a new brand, but definitely not one of the top ten brands
Q:tile dilema - too difficult to remove?
You may be able to do it as the last guy answered, but I would never guarantee the results in the long run. The proper way is to chip up all the old tile and start from scratch.
Q:Laying tile?
you have to take into consideration the underlayment such as Durock Cement board. it is 1/2 or 5/8. then add 1/4 inch for the Thinset and then add the depth of your tile.
Q:to TILE or NOT to tile....?
I prefer having tile to not having tile for the wow factor. But generally it is more expensive than people realize to have it done right. But I don't see what you talking about for practicality issues. Tiling doesn't waterproof a surface. If you apply tile over OSB, you will have toxic mold in one month. If you apply cement board directly over studs and then tile, you will have toxic levels of mold on the studs within a year. If you want waterproofing you have to install it into your tile setup.
Q:Do I need a vapor barrier when installing ceramic floor tile?
YIKES!! Even in the High Desert of California, there is moisture underground. But, getting to your question: a) If your pad was poured over a vapor barrier (visqueen, typically), you do not need to add anything new *as a vapor barrier*. b) It cannot hurt to install a sealer on top of the concrete before you install new tile in any case. That will reduce the dusting in any case. c) But I am thinking that the felt paper you found was installed as a strain-relief rather than a vapor-barrier. It allows the tile to move differently than the concrete slab. This becomes important if there are extreme changes in outside temperature - which penetrates the edges of the slab and varies with the time-of-day - with relatively constant temperature inside. If the tile is bonded directly to the concrete as those temperature changes take place it will begin to spall and separate - not good as even a few fractions of an inch of difference will be enough to break the bond between the tile and the concrete. Were it up to me, I would install a strain-relief (AKA underlayment) with the new tile. There are liquid applications (Laticrete) and sheet goods (Durock) which come to mind and are very effective as a bond-breaker yet give a solid, reliable surface to hold the tile. These are only two of many and are linked below.
Q:ceramic tile vs. vinyl tile?
vinyl tile would be a lot cheaper..off the top of my head and if the place is empty and the floor that the vinyl tile is going over is in good shape,you are probably looking at around 800 dollars........ceramic maybe 3 to 4 thousand......these figures are far from exact but the vinyl tiles could probably be finished in a day,whereas, the ceramic could take 4 to 5 days in all.........
Q:Installing mesh mounted glass tiles?
--->> Tips---> https://trimurl.im/f87/installing-mesh-mounted-glass-tiles
Q:Can you successfully paint ceramic tile?
Can you successfully paint ceramic tile with a conventional latex paint? No. It is too hard and too slick. Is the tile subject to direct contact with water? Is the bathroom vented well or is there a lot of humidity during showers? Where there is moisture or high humidity you will especially need to do it right or it will not last, it will blister and eventually those blisters will break and flake off. I would have it done professionally if I were you. Do a search for a competent bathtub re-finisher. The same process should work for the the ceramic tile. If memory serves me correctly it will involve cleaning, acid etching, re-cleaning, priming with a two part epoxy, and finishing with a two part urethane - or something similar to this procedure. Although not a one step process, it still should be cheaper than tearing out the old tile and re-installing new. Be sure the re-finisher offers a warranty on his work - I have seen professionally refinished tubs blister and peel particularly where water collects or where soaps and shampoos are left on the surface for extended lengths of time. One note about the two part expoxies and urethanes - they stink very badly. You will want to be able to open windows and ventilate the house well if they are used.

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