• Polished Porcelain Tile Wooden Line Stone  Serie CMAXWL004 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Wooden Line Stone  Serie CMAXWL004 System 2
Polished Porcelain Tile Wooden Line Stone  Serie CMAXWL004

Polished Porcelain Tile Wooden Line Stone Serie CMAXWL004

Ref Price:
$4.55 - 4.65 / m² get latest price
Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Wooden Line Stone  Serie CMAXWL004 is one of the most popular color in the present market. Due to its simple design, this model has been exported to many countries in Middle East and Africa, and is also widely used in China domestic market. The wooden vein could create a clean special decoration effect.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Soluble Salt

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, EN 14411

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 500x500mm, 7pcs/Ctn, 890 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1512m2/20’Fcl

 

 

Production Line & Package 

 

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Wooden Line Stone  Serie CMAXWL004

Polished Porcelain Tile Wooden Line Stone  Serie CMAXWL004

 

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 60*60 available?

—— Yes. For some series, the size 80*80, 100*100 and 60*120 are also available.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

 

Q:We bought the tile. Our wall has new drywall behind (unpainted and clean). We are putting the tile from above the backsplash to under the wall cabinets. Can you please answer my questions:1) Do you prep the walls with anything? We bought this tub of stuff called Thinset... Is this the actual adhesive or is there something else used to put on afterward?2) We are doing our longest wall with counter and sink/window then corner and over to counter and stove then counter. Where would the starting point be? Corner or one wall?3) The wall cabinet on the open end is about 1/2 inch in then the base cabinet right below. If we start the tile from the bottom, when you get to the top, the tile will hang out from the wall cabinet by the 1/2 in. Do we use a straight line from the wall cabinet or base cabinet and it be off either way? 4) The tile is not coated or shiny. Once they are applied to the wall and then grouted and wiped clean, do you apply any coating?
This is a long question. First it is not good to lay tile on drywall your best bet is to get the rock board for tile it is not that expensive. Take out the drywall where the tile is to go and replace it with hardibacker board. Just pick a side but it is best to start at the bottom when you lay the tile. Make your corner is square or your tile is going to be off. I am not sure about question 3 but you will have to cut the tile to fit. Use a level and try to cut to fit as you go. There is a little room to that you can play with but try to keep things close. Unless your tile is rough or there are a lot of holes in it, there is no need to seal the tile. The grout needs to be sealed. In the kitchen bacteria will grow in the cracks so put a coat of sealer on. Take your time and it will work out
Q:I have granite tiles I want to put on a kitchen countertop. I removed the laminate and underneath is about 1.5 thick of a particle board of some sort. The countertop is very sturdy and the board is in great shape. I know if this stuff get wet, you can have problems, but otherwise it seems to be very sturdy stuff. I know most people will say you need to put down a sheet of hardibacker, but I don‘t see the point. With a top grade thinset, these tiles will definitely adhere to the board extremely well. Grount lines will be extremely tiny and I‘m going to double seal everything with a really good sealer. I don‘t see anyway water is going to penetrate these tiles and thinset and get to the particle board. That‘s really the whole issue, right?
You can do that no problem. Particle board is a very stable material as long as it doesn't get and stay wet a long time. Make sure you seal the edges of the particle board (if you're not covering them with tile). That's the area that's most vulnerable to water damage because of water that drips off of the top of the counter. But I have to say....tile as a counter is outdated and tacky. Get with the program. Use solid granite or solid surfacing. Tiled counter tops are embarrassing.
Q:Dongpeng tiles and Europe Shennuo which cost-effective
Industry Top Brand: First, the aesthetic ceramic (with two brands): 1, "Marco Polo" aesthetic group's first brand to antique brick-based, industry's first brand antique brick. 2, "beautiful LD ceramic" is the beautiful group launched in 2003 high-end brand, the Italian registered international brands, the top of the design concept, the tattoo brick in the industry unique, are difficult, high standards of production technology, no one imitation success, Now mainly to high-definition stone, supporting wood tiles, polished tiles, small size tiles and flowers, is a stylish, avant-garde brand. Second, Bode tiles: focus on high-end market, mainly to microcrystalline stone, is the first microcrystalline stone brand in the industry have considerable visibility, but now many companies are producing microcrystalline stone, the status of decline, The Third, the "Italian bee" "Mango": small size tiles, suitable for pastoral, American, British, Mediterranean, and other styles.
Q:is it better to rent a wet saw, or will a tile cutter be less expensive and less messy
Wet saws can be messy. That's what I use. The other tile cutters will sometimes break in the wrong place. I would prefer to use a wet saw, messy or not.
Q:What is the finish height of tile after grout and tile??? For example if I were to lay tile how much would it bring up the floor?? 1half inch???
It depends where you're starting from... you should put a mesh and scratch coat down first... this could add up to 1/4 depending on how thick you lay the mortar in to level out the imperfections in the floor... then the tile should sit on that with a notched trowel application of the set mortar... so another 1/16 or so... then the thickness of the tile on top of that.... the grout isn't higher so... Hope this helps with the calculation...
Q:why is waterproofing done before grouting?why do we need to let the mortar/adhesive dry before grouting?
Should the grout come away it can damage underneath especially in shower areas. You should use green moisture resistant plasterboard but ideally cement board on top as it is waterproof and perfect for tiling. Grout will eventually become discoloured and fall away over time in wet areas. Using correct technique in applying adhesive ( notched trowel or plastic notched spreader ) evenly and working within you capability will give you a good result, many try to do too much in one go....which is Ok for the professional. This way the tile will not come away. When applying tile on adhesive try a slight twisting motion to firm the tile in place, by placing finger on the front of tile....Important allow tile adhesive to dry fully before applying grout it takes 12 hrs approx as manufacturers spec. If tile when tapping makes a different sound (kinda hollow sound) it is loose and will need to be removed. Scrap out old adhesive and redo. Tip: Buy sealer (spray for grout) in excessively wet areas as it will extend the grout life and very good for shower areas. You can but sealer applicators but slow....mask and vent out when using spray as not good to breathe in and smell at first....
Q:I am wanting to put ceramic tile at the top of my shower, where the drywall meets the shower. I have no clue where to start. What will I need? How long should this take?
iam not sure if tile glue will adhere to paint so you may have to strip the paint of the villa board wall (bathrooms are made with a cement based wall sheet called ,villa board/Fibre cement sheet/Fibro. Rest of the house is Drywall). you need - bucket a tile glue mixer ( an atachment that fits onto your drill) make sure to buy a glue that is designed for FC sheeting. a glue spreader ( it has square notches in it) plastic cross spacers and wedge spacers. a tile cutter OR an angle grinder with a mayssonry disk sillicon (ask for bathroom type) a silicon gun grout, Sponge, Grout spreader ( or a peice of rubber size of your hand will do the same) work out how your tiles will look by running some sqaure and straight lines so you can work off, once you get a straight row of tiles the rest will follow that line and you should line up nicely with the walls if you worked it out correctly. mix your glue to a custard type consistancy and smear up the wall with the notches spreading your glue. place first tile by coming at the wall at a 90 dgr angle to the wall then lightly lift and press the tile onto the wall, put in your cross spacers and repeat for the next tile. Make sure not to leave any glue on tiles or souroundings as it is VERY hard to get off.!! And make sure to clean out the gaps between the tiles so grout can get in. once tiles are all in place allow 24hours dry time then you are ready for the grout (gap infil) when you buy the grout ask for a water proof one, all you do is mix it up till its a melted choclate consistancy and just press into the gaps at the same time wiping it up with a moist sponge untill it looks even and just a little bit below the tile surface. last step is to Sillicon up the edges with the wall meets the tiles with the same color as your grout
Q:Can a ceramic wall tile be applied directly to a greenboard surface with mortar or is a cement backer board required?Thanks for your help
Cement backer is required for it's moisture resistant qualities. I studied this in detail before deciding to use a tub surround wall instead of tile.
Q:I have some stick on tile that has come loose in a small hall area at some rental property. can you just lift thme up re-glue them? They are still in great shape.
The stick on back for these tiles is replacable. I believe liquid nails or other quick stick glue works just fine. Usually the replaced glue holds longer than the original.
Q:What is the classification of tiles, what is the difference?
According to use points: outside the wall, the wall, floor tiles, square brick According to the molding points: dry pressure molding brick, extrusion molding brick, plastic molding brick Ingredients: oxidized tiles, reduced tiles According to glazed: glazed tiles, no glazed tiles According to the water absorption points: porcelain tiles, stoneware tiles, fine stoneware brick, stoneware brick, ceramic brick

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