• Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Natural Stone Serie Pink Color 6401 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Natural Stone Serie Pink Color 6401 System 2
Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Natural Stone Serie Pink Color 6401

Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Natural Stone Serie Pink Color 6401

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1382.4
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Natural Stone Serie Pink Color 6401 is one of the most popular color of Crystal Jade Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Natural Stone Serie Pink Color 6401Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Natural Stone Serie Pink Color 6401

 

 

FAQ  

 

1. Why choose our Floor Tile?

1). Less investment and shorter lead time because we ship tiles directly from Factory.

2). Better ETD and more stable price bacause we keep abundant stock for future needs.
3). Experienced service because we have an experienced team and we could send our experienced engineer for guving useful instruction on your jobsite.
4). Better warranty of products because we enjoy a reputation and we have got varies certificates and awards for our products.

 

2. What exhibition we joined?

1). Canton Fair (every year)

2). Dubai Big 5

3). American Covering

 

3. What's the characteristics about porcelain tiles and glazed tiles? Which one

more slippery, more aesthetically pleasing and easy to clean?

 

Glazed tiles are colorful, the effect is rather diverse, stain-slip, abrasion resistance but worse than the porcelain tiles. Long-term use may wear a large surface; porcelain tiles have the higher degree, long hard wear surface. Good performance and stable cleanup (before playing the best times to use the wax to improve stain resistance). The porcelain tiles are weaker performance in non-slip than glazed tiles. We should take attention on its anti-slip properties, face down in a tiled brick water testing.

Q:Can u burn tiles?
You can but it produces a smelly black smoke so you might check with your local fire dept for local laws and possible burn bans.
Q:Currently the stairs are carpeted. I have heard that if this is not done properly the tiles will crack. How do I ensure that the stairs are level and stable enough for the tiles? Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
I am with Ronk on this one, leave tiling the stairs well alone.
Q:I have water damage on a ceiling tile in my basement. The water damage is on a tile on the perimiter of the room. The water damage is adjacent to the room wall. However when I pulled the tile up I was surprised that I didn‘t find the source to any water above it. There was also no water damage on the tile where the angle bracket held the tile up. The water damage on the tile started in a straight line from the edge of the angle iron. Also there appeared to be a larger brown stain on the finished underside of the tile with a much smaller slightly damp appearance on the unfinished top of the tile. I‘m wondering if this means that my water source is not above the tile but in fact moisture from the room. However all of my other tiles around this one are dry with no damage. Thanks in advance.
Sometimes water leaks start at a different spot and move down to the center and just sits there and builds up. I would change the tile and keep checking it until I can figure out where the leak is, then fix it (the leak).
Q:Okay so i live in an apartment and i cant EVER get mant. out here to fix this... the stuff thats between the tiles is missing and it looks gross and then the white rubber stuff that sits between the tub and the tile is coming off in random places.... what is this stuff called and would i be able to fix this junk myself???The white stuff that connects the tubs looks like that white stuff they use to connect the base boards to the hardwood floor...
The white stuff between the tiles is grout or a substance you can buy in any hardware store and apply yourself. The rubbery stuff around the tub is caulking which also can be bought at a hardware store. Be sure to ask for types of caulking for specific uses, such as tubs. That goes for the grout as well.
Q:We have a fireplace in our lower level that is outdated, dingy old masonry and doesn‘t fit with the rest of our updates down there. I would like to tile over it and have it ready for use before our family comes over for Thanksgiving. What is the best method?
You can attach tile directly to masonry, it has been done all over the world for centuries (Italy, Spain, Middle East all use tile on the exterior of buildings...) I would assume normal thin-set mortar would work, but I believe it would depend on the exact type of masonry- concrete block or clay brick. A thicker adhesive bed will likely be necessary to smooth over the rough surface, but because of the relatively porous surface of most types of masonry your bond should be excellent. My only word of caution would be if you have any cracks in the masonry. Make sure they are not active (widening and narrowing), which may occur with temperature and humidity swings. Either way, you may choose to weld the crack with epoxy to prevent any crack movements that may telegraph through your tile and crack it. HTH, Andrew Kester, PE Structural Engineer Florida (..and a tile afficianado..)
Q:CAN I LAY TILE WITH NO GROUT LINES?
No, it will not stay in place and gather dirt in the gaps. Go by the Home Depot Tiling book, it will answer all your questions.
Q:I only have a couple of tiles in my shower to grout. I bought some pre-mixed tile grout from Home Depot. It says on the back NOT FOR USE IN SHOWER OR UNDERWATER. I called home depot and they said it would work if I were to seal it. As many know sealer is very expensive and I‘m only doing a couple of tiles that will be exposed to water. Do I have to seal this? I understand there exist grout with sealer already inside.....
Sealer, sealer, sealer... It's like the magic solution for everything now. The most important thing about what you are doing is the adhesive for the tile. Make sure it can handle the water. And spread it thick... let the tile squeeze it out and wipe out the excess. You cannot have air bubbles under the tile. The steam will expand the air in that bubble (1,000 times it's cold volume) and pop the tiles. As for grouting between the joints: consider using caulk instead. You can specially order (at the hardware store) tinted and colored caulks. In a shower, there is no better solution. I bought a grout remover tool and took out the grout in my tile shower then installed a light sand colored caulk 15 years ago. I never sealed the glazed tile and it still looks good.
Q:The tiles were installed about 2 1/2 weeks ago, and we decided that we just cant live with the really wide grout lines that ended up gradually becoming huge. So we‘ll have to remove about half of the tile. Is it possible to remove and reuse these tiles? If so, what about the left-over thin set? Will it be stuck on the tiles? And what about the cement board under them? Is it reusable or easier to just replace? Thanks for any answers!
This is going to be messy. Usually the tiles will break when removing them, if they were properly installed in the first place. Some tile may not break but the mastic will stick to either the tile or backer board. The mastic must be scraped off. Over all it would be simpler to just demo the old tile and start over.
Q:I‘m remodeling my kitchen and there is ugly floor to ceiling wall tile. My contractor says can‘t put up drywall without reframing (which would be expensive). So does anyone have suggestion on what to do with this wall?
If the tiles are on a villa board just rip it off the studs and take out any nails or screws so the drywall can just be fixed straight onto the studs. First you have to knock one of the tiles off, since that walls is being redone this won't upset the apple cart. Just be care when taking off the tile, because I was doing the same things years ago and I hit a tile with a hammer and it shattered sending bits of razor sharp tile fly one cutting my arm, wear eye protection and put something like a towel over the tile so it won't fly everywhere. Once you've knock off a tile if there's board behind it you're in luck, just continue doing as you got the first tile off and clear the studs of anything that will get in the way of the sheetrock. If not you'll need to batten the wall out to take the sheetrock as your contractor said Well depending on what you intend to do with the wall, will you re-tile? If you intend to re-tile just use a chisel and carefully knock them off the wall taking as much of the tile mortar off as you can, it doesn't matter if there's a little unevenness, but you can't have high spots all over the wall, because if you re-tile the high spot will cause the tile to ride on ithe high spots making it hard to tile, if it's just a little the tile compound/mortar will even out around it during tiling. I'd take anything higher than 1/8 off using a Scutch Hammer. ...

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