HUINENG ZHIZUN Series Biomass Boiler

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Introduction:

China's first disc cyclone biomass boiler Brand: HUINENG ZHIZUN

Applied fuel: Biomass and wood pellets (including few coking pellets)

Technical description:

1. Base on the 2012 patent cyclone combustion technology, we develop disc cyclone further combustion technology, which increase the temperature in the hearth to accelerate the process of pyrolysis gasification and makes more complete combustion. The heat transferring system prevent the tar attachment and tube block.The heat efficiency of boiler won't decrease after long-time use.

2. Natural anti-back fire design for feeding system

3. Variable frequency speed control system makes feeding system more stable.

4. The adoption of high-efficiency energy-saving tube makes heat efficiency of our boiler exceed national requirement.

5. Full-time cyclone technology prolongs the maintenance cycle.

6. Monitor system for bunkers, it will warn clients when there is no fuels. One-button control system makes automatic running and safe operation

7. Bevel design of bunkers reduces the feeding height greatly, makes fuel feeding easily, also enlarge the capacity.

8. Zincification-and-galvanize for appearance makes boiler exquisite and durable.

9. Internal equipped with dust catcher technology, which makes more environmental-protection emission, less than natural gas emission.

Product specification: cover from 10*104Kcal~180*104Kcal ( part of specifications for reference)

Item		Unit	CLHS0.12	CHLS0.24	CLHS0.35	CHLS0.48	CLHS0.60	CLHS0.73
Rated head		Kcal	10*104	20*104	30*104	40*104	50*104	60*104
Rated discharge pressure		Mpa	0（Normal pressure）
Rated temperature of output water		℃	85
Rated temperature of return water		℃	60
Heat efficiency		%	92
Water inlet		MM	40	50	50	65	65	80
Water outlet		MM	40	50	50	65	65	80
Drain hole		MM	40	50	50	65	65	80
Smoke vent		MM	40	50	50	65	65	80
Electricity		KW	1.3	1.8	2.2	2.6	3.2	3.8
Size	length	MM	1930	2230	2438	2770	3020	3110
	width	MM	610	810	910	1010	1130	1270
	heigth	MM	1760	1960	1960	1960	1960	1960

Q: residential 4 zone just want something to tell me whats running or not: A combi's output temperature is set by a temperature control on the boiler ... As a comparison to all this, I can run a good bath in one and a quarter .... Note that I have assumed a simple basic combi boiler; a simple hot ... No need for any cold water in loft (unless kept for emergency supply).

Q: I live in Scotland. I know it's summer but I am still cold. My heating is not working. I want to have a bath and there is no hot water. My boiler is pretty new and was working fine yesterday. What is the deal?: Check the fuse/breaker. Is it on a timer? If it is gas, is the pilot lit or is it self igniting?

Q: I was wondering if Combination Boilers have a return because if the water was just left in 'dead legs' obviously the water would eventually get stagnant, is their any sort of re-circulation pump or return valve ? Or does it just stay in the pipes until next use ?Also does the cold water mains go straight from the mains to the Kitchen Sink, then to the other appliances, or does it go from the combination boiler and then to the rest of the appliances ?: There has to be a flowing loop, so there is a return.

Q: The water pressure in my Potterton combi-boiler seems to fluctuate wildly. In the morning when it is cold, the pressure is usually around 0.2 bar. I open the valve to manually increase the pressure above 0.5 bar (recommended minimum). When the boiler fires up and the water temperature increases, the pressure slowly rises to around 3 bar (recommended maximum 2.5 bar). I initially assumed it was down to the expansion of trapped air, but I have bled every radiator and they all seem to be fine.I'm guessing the safety valve is opening when the pressure gets too high, which is why it is low again the next morning, but I have no idea why there would be such a big difference in pressure between when it is hot and when it is cold.Any ideas gratefully received.: Peter W is spot on,the expansion vessel on the boiler will either be burst or more likely be needing recharged with air.

Q: indirect firing boiler?: You okorder

Q: We are looking to replace our existing Worcester combi boiler (about 10 years old) with a newer condenser model. Two of the quotes that we received mentioned that the diameter of our gas pipework may not be sufficient.So my question is: is this correct? Our flat is fairly small (5 radiators) and the existing combi boiler works fine with this pipework, leading me to think that this may be a bit of a con. It wasn't mentioned by any of the other plumbers who quoted us, either.It would be a royal pain to change the pipework, as it is a listed building, and the pipework itself can be no more than 12 years old, as this was when the building was converted to residential dwellings.Thanks,JP: Decide what boiler u want then check gas inlet to it All boilers will show that info. on the owners manual if not on it.(Name plate)

Q: Yesterday i went for a shower and the water would not heat up, and it fails to do so in the kitchen now. However the boiler is heating the flat/radiators perfectly well, just not my water. Does any one have any idea of what is wrong and how to fix it?I would call an engineer but i want to have an idea of what is going on.Thanks to all that answer, as ever!: First of all you must establish is your system a combi or system boiler. For system boilers ensure the air vent near the hot water tank has been bled of air, if that's OK I would suspect the diverter valve which is usually fitted next to the hot tank. Try this by moving the lever on the valve across until it locks in position, now fire up the boiler and wait to see if you get hot water in the tap. If yes, then its the motor in the didiverter valve, you can buy a new valve ?70 or a new motor ?20. If the boiler is a combi, again it is probably the diverter valve in the boiler, but first check the water pressure shown on the gauge, top it up to around 2 bar, the red line. Try the boiler, if no luck call a plumber as combi boilers are very cramped to work in.

Q: the marathon is a free standing boiler which is very old. any answers would be great thank you: an okorder .they are very helpful on this site and will point you in the right direction

Q: in the midwest US?: Pretty okorder /

Q: I just had a new boiler installed known as: The Prestige Excellence Series combined with a High Efficiency Condensing Stainless Steel Wall Mounted Gas Boiler with a built-in “Tank-in-Tank Indirect Fired Water Heater. 3 honeywell zone valves were used with the installation. Everytime the heat kicks on, I get a rumble from the pipes and a loud bang. Certain rooms I can hear the water flushing through until it warms up. I strapped down every pipe including the baseboards and it still hasn't helped. When the unit kicks on and I'm standing in front of the boiler, it sounds like a fast surge of water and then I hear the rumble in another portion of the house. I have turned the circulator pump down to the lowest performance and this has not helped. My plumber has bled the lines twice and it still happens.I was told by an hvac guy that my boiler is oversized... uld this be the problem? Any responses would be greatly appreciated.: Your need to purge the air from the lines. Consider having and automatic purging system installed

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