High Performance WCB Safety Valve For Steam Service

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A pressure relief valve (PRV) is a safety device that relieves overpressure in a vessel or system. When the pressure of vessel or system increased beyond the specified design pressure or maximum allowable working pressure, PRV will be opened automaticly to relief the overpressure for proteding the vessel or system. The PRV will be closed if the pressure reached specified design pressure so that to ensure the normal operation and protect the vessel or system.

Our Pressure Relief Valve has been designed and manuractured according to following Standard:

♦ ISO 4123-1 Safety Devices for Portection Against Excessve Pressure
♦ API STD 526 Flanged Steel Pressure Relief Valves
♦ API STD 527 Seat Tightness of Pressure Relief Valves

♦ ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code Section VIII Division 1, Rules for Construction of Pressure Vessels

♦ Type: Conventional, Bellows

♦ Size:1" D 2"- 8" T 10"
♦ Class:150lb~2500lb
♦ Temperature:-268~+538°C

♦ Fluid: Gas, Steam, and Liquid
♦ Material: Carbon steel, Stainless steel, Alloy steel
♦ The allowable tolerance of the set pressure: ≤±3%
♦ Overpressure: ≤10%(gas)/≤20%(liquid)
♦ Blowdown: ≤10%(gas)/≤20%(liquid)

♦ Tightness: conforms to API STD 527


♦The solid nozzle is screwed into the body, which makes the maintenance easy.
♦ The shape of the disc holder has been designed to enhance the effect of the fluid thrust for an instant lift of the disc.
♦ Blowdown control is provided with adjustable nuzzle ring only.
♦ The adequate terials and clearance between disc holder and guide , spindle and adjusting screw assures disc to lift successfully.

♦ The surface of both the disc and the nozzle seat are deposited with Stellite. Excellent flatness and surface finish of the seating surfaces by precision machining and lapping assure pressure relief valve to have high degree of seat tightness and long using life.

♦ The bellows of balanced bellows pressure relief valves can not only avoid and effect of variable back pressure in the system , but also protect spring and other trim components from corrosive media.

♦ Materials are chosen carefully , and the manufacture of the spring and the bellows has strict technological process. Each of them is tested and checked strictly.

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The water hammer is due to the sudden closure of the control valve. They don't turn off slowly. The sudden shutoff of the valve causes the inertia of the water to slam against the end of the sprinkler pipe. You can device from a well stocked hardware store to place in you water line to reduce or eliminate the hammer. As for the leaking problem, I disassembled the control valve and found the diaphragm out of position. On mine, there is a very, very small key on the diaphragm that aligns it with the case. Also check for debris in the solenoid valve seat and anywhere else in the valve. I can't address commercial vs residential valves other than if the valves are brass, they are more durable.
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Charlie, I know it is hard to transfer a sound into a word. but valves don't knock, they clack. So if it isn't a clack it isn't a valve issue. Sadly you haven't helped us to diagnose the issue by giving the make and model of your bike. That would really be a help. I would like to help you further so if you hit my avatar you will find my email address for direct contact so I can help you further if you can't find out more help form the other guys.
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Valvar insufficiency/regurgitation that is a result of surgical repair of a congenital defect does not self-resolve. It's not clear what your initial diagnosis was, however I would guess that you were born with aortic stenosis. Balloon enlargement and/or surgery to repair a stenotic valve almost always results in some degree of insufficiency/regurgitation. A small amount of insufficiency/regurgitation is much better tolerated than stenosis. It is a tradeoff we accept for improved patient outcomes. Really, the answer to your question is dependent on a multitude of factors, the most important of which is the degree of insufficiency/regurgitation you have (i.e. trivial, mild, moderate, or severe). This is really a great question and you deserve a full explanation. However, I cannot give you a factual answer without more information. You may also have a bicuspid aortic valve, which opens up a whole other set of variables. One thing I am sure of, however, is that you will require the care of a cardiologist for the rest of your life. It's possible that later on you may only have to follow-up ever 1-3 years, however, it will forever be necessary to properly monitor your valve and its effect on your heart, not to mention any associated problems you may not be aware of that become a risk with age. Good luck.
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That other one is the crankcase breather, it goes to the air cleaner with a small clear plastic filter by the main air filter. It's not a valve so changing the breather filter is all that need be done with it.
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Buy a new valve at an appliance parts outlet. Make sure it's the right one. Many times they will come with instructions. Unplug the unit. Shut off the water and remove the hoses. Remove the back panel to access the valve. Remove the old broke valve and replace it with the new one. Replace the panel. Attach the hoses and turn on the water. Check for leaks. Plug in the unit and give it a test. Try all the temperature settings. Congratulations. You are now a professional..
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Put the correct valve in the valve case. (There is usually a notch that guides the placement, but it is not always accurate enough.) Blow gently into the trumpet, (you don't need to play, just blow as you do to clear the spit valves). If you feel a resistance, rotate the valve until the resistance is gone. When there is no resistance with the valve up, depress the valve and blow again. There should be no resistance there either. Repeat with each valve.
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Wow, okorder.com/... Good luck to you and your son and I am very sorry you are having to go through this difficult decision.
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