• High Density Fiber Cement Board Prices for Building System 1
  • High Density Fiber Cement Board Prices for Building System 2
  • High Density Fiber Cement Board Prices for Building System 3
High Density Fiber Cement Board Prices for Building

High Density Fiber Cement Board Prices for Building

Ref Price:
$1.50 - 3.00 / m² get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
300000 m²/month

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The raw materials of fiber cement board are cellulose fiber, silicate cement, quartz sand, water and some additives. It's a kind of high-tech product which formed through accurate dosing by computer program, hatschek craft and compressed by 14000tons hydraulic machine and autoclaved under high temperature and pressure.

Product Applications:

1.Indoor ceiling of industrial and resident building.

2.Partition of industrial and resident building.

3.The ceiling and partition of the bathroom and other wet condition building.

4.Indoor ceiling and partition as base board of the decoration for operation room,clean room of hospital or laboratory .

5.The fireproof board of the air passage.

6.Furniture or furniture's accessories.

 

Product Advantages:

1)excellent fire-proof

2)excellent damp-proof

3)Durability and long service life

4)high strength

5)stable dimensions

6)good heat and sound insulation

7)non-asbestos

8)mould resistant

9)no deformation

Main Product Features:

 

1) Elegance and excellent decoration
2) Easy installation and convenient maintenance
3) Best Surface processed with PVC Lamination
4) Heat insulation, thermal insulation, moisture proof, mould proof, sound absorption and noise reduction

5) Incombustibility / Fireproof
6) No dust / no pollution

7) Stucturally strong

8) Over 15 years no transmutation

 

Product Specifications:

 

High Density Fiber Cement Board Prices for Building

 

FAQ:

1. Q:What is the different and most important point from other supplier? 

A:We guarantee No asbestos if it has asbestos density will be more than 1.4g/cm3 what's more 

3.2mm*3000*1220mm can be produced by us other suppliers can not do this size 

2. Q:What are the advantages of your board?

A: outstanding light weight ,heat insulation, waterproof, fireproof, sound insulation, fast construction.

3. Q: Is the board fire resistant? 

A: Yes, fire resistant 4 h , in the heat of 1000℃.actually it is noncombustible Class A1.

4. Q: Do you have any certificate to help us get government's approval?

A:China testing report and our laboratory' s testing by ourselves as your supporting document. 

Because building standards are different in different countries, most of our customers buy the boards for testing and get approval by themselves.

5. Q: If we need samples for customer approval, will it be possible? 

A: Of course we can.

6. Q:How to guarantee the quality? 

A:Laboratory, integral testing process from raw materials to finished product until loading containers will be done by our factory.

 

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High Density Fiber Cement Board Prices for Building

High Density Fiber Cement Board Prices for Building

High Density Fiber Cement Board Prices for Building

High Density Fiber Cement Board Prices for Building

 

Q:I have a porch that is currently covered in green turf carpet. I'd like to rip off the turf, clean the cement and mortar on small stone pavers. I will be placing the stones not only on the top, but the sides, and tread and risers of the stairs as well. Can I mortar directly onto the cement or should I use backer-board? If a backer-board is needed, how do I connect the backer-board onto the concrete? Will I need special screws?
You do not need backer board since it is concrete. Just clean the concrete good with a garage floor cleaner and rinse and let dry. Try to do this when the hot sun is not beating down on the concrete. Use thinset mortar and a notched trowel to put it on. Figure out what kind of pattern you are goint to lay-maybe just regular common end to end? Put thinset on an area about 3' x 3' and push your pavers down into it and wiggle them just a little - after you have set some take a 4' level and a rubber mallet - tap on top of level until all the pavers are setting about the same, then move level to next row repeat. If you have some thinset on and you want to stop or take a break - just scrape it of with putty knife and put back into your mortar bucket. Cover mortar bucket with lid or damp cloth when your not getting into it. Cut pavers with a 4-1/2 grinder with a diamond blade. Watch your bottom step- you may need to cut pavers on this step down or this step may be higher than all the others.
Q:i am having alotta trouble on the cement like i cant get both feet back on the board.any tips?
I must adjust your kick flip on cement because your board will move more compared to grass. Another reason could be mental. You might be sabotaging yourself by over thinking it. I would recommend tightening your wheels so the have less movement while your practicing your kick flip.
Q:I found these in a house I bought and am not sure what they are nor what they would be used for. I'd hate to just throw them out if they could be used.
Backer board instead of drywall in areas with moisture issues such as bathrooms and kitchen back splash area, or as an underlayment for tile.
Q:When I was replacing vanity in small bathroom, I discovered that old vanity was sitting on top of the wooden sub-floor while the rest of the floor (with ceramic tile) is about whole inch above the sub-floor. I'm planning to install tile (never did it before) and I've read that you attach cement backer board to sub-floor and use adhesive to attach tiles. However cement boards are sold in 1/2 thickness. What should I do to make whole sandwich (board, adhesive, tile) to be on the same level as rest of the tile floor? I'd much appreciate any suggestions! :)
Screw down a piece of 1/2 plywood to the subfloor and then screw down the cement board on top of that. If you are still a tad low you can always spread on a layer of thinset mortar to bring it up to the same height as the rest of the floor. Whenever I do a bathroom I always remove the vanity and tile under it just like the rest of the room. That way, everything is level and if you ever want to replace the vanity with a smaller one or a pedestal sink the floor is good to go. What I have found, and you have found too, is that most people are just too damned lazy to bother doing that.
Q:Is a vapor barrier needed behind cement board in a shower?
on an exterior wall you will need vapour barrier
Q:Can tiles be attached to gypsum board?
The use of tiles is generally in the kitchen, bathroom wall, ground, is to moisture. But the gypsum board itself can not be moisture, it is recommended not to use gypsum board tiles to achieve the purpose of waterproof moisture.
Q:Is the cement fiber outer wall plate affected by the blisters?
High density board for external walls. Calcium silicate board is autoclaved, the pressure plate is autoclaved and not autoclaved, autoclaved weather resistance is better, the same pressure, the density of calcium silicate board lower, because the formula has a lighter lime, There is no cement pressure plate.
Q:I have a bare concrete/cement floor. After I installed Travertine on one section, it is almost 1/2 inch above the floor. Now, I want to continue to install the other section of the floor with laminate wood, but the floor is too low compared to the travertine floor. The question are: Can I put down a particle board over the concrete/cement floor, then a foam pad (moisture barrier), then laminate wood?Will the particle board absorb water then swell up?Or do I need to put down the moisture barrier foam first, then particle, then laminate wood?If I am not using the particle board, the laminate wood floor will be about 1/8 lower than the travertine floor. is it ok?
Do NOT use particle board. There is no reason, as the laminate can be laid over the concrete with the proper padding. The particle board may swell and cause you issues down the road. Check the instructions on the flooring. Some require a plastic vapor barrier under them, while others only need the padding. 1/8 is not a big deal. The transition strip will bridge the difference. Be sure to check for peaks and valleys in the concrete, and fill in low spots. This will prevent the tongues on the planks from snapping off, leaving gaps in the floor. Allow the laminate to acclimate to the basement for a week or so before installing. Hope this helps. EDIT: You don't need anything under the flooring except vapor barrier or padding. They are designed to be able to be installed on a concrete base. Good luck.
Q:I need to know if hardibacker board is as good as other cement boards for use behind a tiled shower wall.?
Yup! Hardibacker is what you want for a shower but do NOT use mastic as a tile adhesive. Go for thinset - it's lasts longer and doesn't have the history of cracking like most old shower walls do. They're virtually identical in application and handling but not longevity.

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