• Galvanized U Type Wire System 1
  • Galvanized U Type Wire System 2
  • Galvanized U Type Wire System 3
Galvanized U Type Wire

Galvanized U Type Wire

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
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Supply Capability:
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Quick Details

Steel Grade:
steel
Standard:
AISI,ASTM,BS,DIN,GB,JIS
Wire Gauge:
0.70mm -1.20mm
Place of Origin:
China (Mainland)
Type:
Galvanized
Application:
Construction
Alloy Or Not:
Non-alloy
Special Use:
Free Cutting Steel
Model Number:
AB063
Shape:
U type


Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:Packing: in bundles, several bundles in a carton, then on pallet.
Delivery Detail:10-40 days

Specifications

1) Material: black annealed wire, galvanized wire,etc.
2) ISO Certified
3) More than 10 years experience

Tensile strengthLow carbon 300-550N/mm2
Materialcarbon steel or stainless steel
Application

normally for binding wire in construction

Type

black or galvanized or PVC coated


Q: Basically I have a 3000watt amp, and I need to buy the right wires. Would I still manage to get the full power out of the amplifier with 1000w speaker wiring kit or do I need to buy a 3000w speaker wiring kit?If so, where is the difference with the higher wattage wiring kits.Thanks
Wire okorder with free shipping Goodluck
Q: I am doing wiring in my shed on preexisting light fixtures and outlets. the wiring that was disconnect from that carried the electricity to it. What I am trying to do is have all the light fixtures work of an extension cord. I have another extension wire connected to that with the +, - and 0 showing. The fixtures have 3 wires coming out of them what I think to be the power in, power out, and switch. On the fixture on the end I connected my extension cord thing and it work, BUT only that one. The rest of the fixtures did not work, I do see anything wrong. What I thought was that I was connecting to the switch wire so I changed it and it just buzzed with blue light. What is going on?
the rest of your light fixtures maybe wired through a switch. you would have to hook your extension cord to the switch but you also need to connect the common neutrals and grounds to the cord as well.
Q: I need a wiring diagram for a 1983 honda rebel, its a 250cc parallel twin, i really need the ignition wiring diagram but i can't seem to find one. If anyone knows the letters (xx250,xx125) then that would help to. Thank you in advance.
1983 Honda Rebel
Q: I'm faced with a dilemma...I'm wiring my basement right now and all is fine, except for my living room. I want to have a 3-way switch setup, but with four light fixtures. I've already ran 3+ground wires in this order...Breaker box - Switch A - Fixture 1 - Fix. 2 - Fix. 3 - Fix. 4 - Switch B. I have done regular 3-way switches in the past, without much trouble, but I have no idea how to wire this, so well-explained instructions would be perfect.Thanks so much!
i hope i can give you good instructions. you have 2 switches you want to operate the lights. first. pull a feed or wire that will be hot probarly from your panel box to the easiest switch to get to. this wire should have 1 black 1 white and one bare copper or green. second pull a three wire from one switch to the other. this wire should have one black one white one bare copper or green and one red wire in it. now there are 2 different ways to go from here. one way. pull a wire from the switch opposite of the switch with the feed in it. this wire would be called a 2 wire it should have 1 black 1 white 1 bare copper or green, to the first light you want to operate. then you can pull a 2 wire from that light to any other light you want to operate from the switches. you do not need to pull any more wires from the lights to the switches. in the first switch with the feed take the white wire from the feed and tie it to the white wire from the 3 wire going to the other switch. take your grounds and tie them together. leave a wire from your grounds so you can tie it to the switch. put you white wires back into the box. you should have 2 blacks 1 red and 1 ground wire sticking out. when you install your switch a three-way switch has 4 screws on it. the ground goes to the green screw. now you have one black screw and 2 gold screws. the black wire from your feed wire ties to the black screw. the red and black wire from your 3 wire ties to the gold screw. one wire to on screw the other wire to the other screw. does not matter which. the opposite switch hooks up the same. the 2 white tie together and go into box. the grounds tie together and then tie to the green screw. the black wire going to your lights ties to the black screw and the red and black wires from the 3 wire go to the gold screws. remember if you are using 14 wire you can only put 12 amps on it that would be about 1400 watts. 12 wire you can put 16 amps on it which is 1900 watts.
Q: my light stopped working ( a chandalier ). It has brown wires, blue wires, red wires, beige wires, and white wires.
If you have an Ohmmeter you can trace the chandelier wiring out. Each socket in the chandelier has two connections, the threaded part of the base and the very bottom of the base. The safest way to wire it is to run the hot to the bottom of the base and the neutral to the threaded part of the socket. Anyway you should be able to ohm each wire out to see where they go, then hook all the wires going to the bottom together and to the black wire in the junction box, then all the wired going to the threaded connection together and to the white wire in the junction box.
Q: Is it possible for a wire to arc with a nail? The u-nail that hangs the wire to a wooden support beam looks like it was hammered in too far and may have cut through the insulation around the wire. Is this a fire hazard or can I leave it as is?
If you're talking about Romex cable, and a staple of the type commonly used to anchor it, some shock or fire hazard might exist. It's hard to tell without seeing the case. The cable consists of two or three insulated wires and a bare copper ground covered by an outer plastic jacket. If only the outer jacket of the cable is crushed or pinched, the danger is minimal. If the inner insulation of the wire is compromised there might be trouble. If you think this is so, show it to a 'Pro'. No-one can responsibly advise you without 'eyeballing` the situation.
Q: The house was built in the 50's. Two wires are coming up from the switch and two wires are coming down from the top of the wall. I do not see a third wire. I attached the wall light wires left wires to left wires and right wires to right wires and light stayed on, when I moved the switch it threw the breaker. So I used may combination and the switch would not make the light work. It appears one wire may be white and one black. Help please!
The wire coming down from the wall is probably the power line. The wire going to the switch is meant to switch the hot lead lead only. Check the wires on the switch. There is probably a black and white on the switch. You will want to hook the white wire coming from above to the white wire on the light. Hook the black wire coming from above to the black wire going to the switch. Hook the white wire coming from the switch to the black wire on the light. While you are at it take black electrical tape and tape both ends of the white wire that runs to the switch. This will indicate that it is a hot lead.
Q: What are the types of Barbed wires?
Barbed wire is barbed wire as far as I am concerned. Otherwise google barbed wire manufacturers and see what they can supply.
Q: Hello! I'm going to re-wire my speakers and eventually get an amp to power them. For normal quot;door speakerswhat wire size would you recomend to run to them from an amp? Also, is 3ft far enough away to run my speaker wires from the amp power wire? Thanks in advance!
I would use 16 gauge. you can go a little bigger, or smaller. The biggest issue you will have ( vehicle depending ) is getting that wire thru your accordion boot and molex ( the rubber thingy that protects your wires, shaped like an S, and goes from the chassis to the door) <~ that's not talking down to you, but if other people read this, they will know exactly what it means also :D Unless your running a ton of power to your doors, you really don't need thick wires. As to the other part, It's not the speaker wire you need to keep away from your power wire, it's your RCA cables.. The rule is power wire goes down the battery side of the vehicle, and the rca's and remote turn on, go down the opposite side, if possible. That way you don't get alternator whine( when you accelerate, a high pitched whine will play thru your system, and make you Bat-S#it crazy :) Good Luck!
Q: 2.4) A wire has a resistance of 19.2 . It is melted down, and from the same volume of metal a new wire is made that is 5 times longer than the original wire. What is the resistance of the new wire?
the quantity of twine ought to stay the comparable that's A L, so once you double L you decrease A in 0.5. Resistance = Rho L/A, so the recent twine has 4 cases the resistance or 20 ohms.

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