GALVANIZED STEEL STRAND

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GALVANIZED STEEL STRAND

1、 STANDARDS

GB/T 1179
QB/HYT002

YB/T 5004

GB/T 3428

ASTMB802、 ASTMB803、 ASTMA855、 ASTMA925、 ASTMB957

2、 MATERIAL

55#，60#，65#，70#，72A，80#，77B，82B

3、 PACKING

WOOD SPOOL Z2

4、MECHANICAL PROPERTY OF EXTRA-HIGHTENSILE STEEL WIRE

Size (mm)		Tolerance (mm)	Stress at 1% extension min /Mpa	Tensile strength min /Mpa	Elongation min */%	Wrapping test standard core dia. /mm	Torsion test min / number of turns
＞	≤	Tolerance (mm)	Stress at 1% extension min /Mpa	Tensile strength min /Mpa	Elongation min */%	Wrapping test standard core dia. /mm	Torsion test min / number of turns
1.24	2.25	±0.03	1550	1870	2.0	4D	14
2.25	2.75	±0.04	1550	1870	2.0	4D	14
2.75	3.00	±0.05	1550	1870	2.5	5D	12
3.00	3.50	±0.05	1550	1870	2.5	5D	12
3.50	4.25	±0.06	1550	1870	2.5	5D	10
4.25	4.75	±0.06	1510	1870	2.5	5D	10
4.75	5.50	±0.07	1510	1870	2.5	5D	10

* Minimun elongation is based on gauge length l0 = 250mm.

Torsion test is based on a standard length of 100 wire diameters

Q: having a difficult time finding a wire for my remoter starter: The white wire to the coil is the tach wire. If you have the 4.3L,there is a white wire with a black tracer from the ignition control module to the coil. If that doesn't help,on the PCM,in the red connector,terminal 10 is the tach wire from the PCM to the Instrument cluster,this wire is also white.

Q: Hi,I have an issue with wiring in house. This is in Paris, France. I will share a foto so you can have a clearer picture what my question is.: It's not just your oven that makes a difference, but the year your oven was manufactured in AND the country it was manufactured in that makes a difference. It was easy to identify your supply wires as Brown = live wire; Blue = return (neutral) wire; green/yellow = earth ground, and this is single phase wiring. There would be an orange wire for 3 phase... ...but the oven wiring conforms to a different standard of gray - white -red where red is possibly the ground line, while the other two are your live and return wires, with the gray likely to be the return wire....BUT...in some time periods, the red wire was the live wire. Your best bet is to test the oven wiring out with a multi-meter and look at what color of wire is connected to where. The earth ground should be connected to the oven's cabinetry; the live wire would be wired to the oven's internal fuse or circuit breaker, and then wired to the business end of the heater elements, timers, etc. The return wire would be connected to the other side of the elements and timers. Your most reliable way to address this is to consult a professional. That second link I posted has both old and new French wiring standards, and neither match your oven. And if your oven isn't manufactured in France, you have yet another level of wiring code to unscramble.

Q: My friend is buying under-wired bras and what are they and the heavily- wired bra?: They are bras with wires underneath the cups for extra lift and support.

Q: The power supply is at the fixture in this case. I have 2 black wires (1 is the hot, I connected the hot to the other black to continue to the switch. The other wires are 2 white wires, 1 red wire and 2 grounds. At the switch there are multiple wires, including 3 black wires, 1 red, 3 white and 3 ground. One of the black wires I know goes on to other fixtures in another room. My issue now is I cannot get my main fixture I was trying to change the switch on to work and don't know which wire to connect to the switch. Right now I have removed the switch completely so the other rooms lights will work. Here is how I have it set up now. At the fixture black to black, white to white, red capped 2 grounds capped together. At the switch area: Black (hot from the fixture) to 2 blacks, all 3 whites connected, red is capped, and grounds are together. Which wires do I connect to the switch to control the fixture and still allow the other rooms lights to work. HELP!: If you are having trouble wiring a light switch you shouldn't be doing it get an electrician otherwise you could cause a fire.

Q: Is it okay to solder wrapping wire to a mother board, I am just asking because the wires are called WRAPPING.: Soldering is fine. As with any wire, be sure to tin the wire first (give it its own thin coat of solder before attempting to solder it to anything else) and secure the wire mechanically so that the solder joint isn't subjected to vibration or other stress. A blob of glue will do the job.

Q: Would crepe paper stick on chicken wire?: Crepe paper needs an adhesive to make it stick to a surface, such as white glue. However, it gets messy once dampened, as the colors may bleed. Instead, I would consider working with paper mache or plaster gauzing strips, which would provide a strong skin over the chicken wire. Both can be primed with gesso then decorated with acrylic paints. If this is a sculptural piece you want to keep, we would also suggest varnishing it for protection.

Q: how do i wire a dual 2 ohm sub to an amp at 2 ohm: actually tc your almost right. yes 1 and 4 are the ohm loads of the speaker itself. but if your talking mono thats all you can achieve. on 2 channel amps when you bridge them your talking ohm drop again. so if you have one dvc 2 ohm wired in series and then bridged to the amp your looking at a 2 ohm load

Q: How can it be possible to create a high voltage and have a small gauge wire? Example: 3gj or 3000mw in a small wire (just an example): Voltage don't matter. It's the amps that will kill the wire. Just have really high voltage and low current and you can have lots of power going through smaller gauge wires. That's how it's done with overhead power lines.

Q: I have a ceiling fixture outlet which has 4 wires coming out (red, black, white and uninsulated ground). There is only one light switch that controls it. I wanted to attach a light fixture to connect to that, but the light fixture only has 3 wires (red, white and green - ground). How do I connect this light fixture to the 4 wires?: Without seeing the ceiling fixture box and wiring myself, i might be hesitant to propose you as to what the extra wires are for. I count on that you mean the field on the ceiling has these wires in them, no longer the ceiling fixture that you simply purchased, seeing that that may have had a wiring diagram that explains what the wires would be for. If I had to bet, i'd say that the field includes three wires due to the fact that it is going to have had a ceiling fan that operated on a different swap than the light, or perhaps the light may also be managed from two special switches on one of a kind facets of the room, or might be both of these. Do you will have an AC voltage tester to see which wires are scorching (are living) and which are not? I hate to propose this, however by and large your great guess is to comply with the wires back to their source to look what they are for. Do you will have a false ceiling that you could open up? Do the wires go into the attic or crawlspace where you could seem at them while not having to tear open the gypsum board or plaster ceiling? You could just put all of the whites together and all the blacks collectively, and make sure the grounds are in position, hoping they've a motive. However now not understanding what they are there for is a good way to intent an electrical fireplace. And i am sure doing that might now not be accredited with the aid of your regional electrical building codes.

Q: What causes signal Loss and Distortion in Copper Wire?: Sonayan kidher the tiger wen, India ya Pakistan? Anyways, White noise and electromagnetic radiation interfernces are the key causes of signal loss and distortion. Any loose connections may also reduce the signal quality, often caculated in decibels.

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