• Factory Directly High Qualit Porcelain Tiles From China System 1
  • Factory Directly High Qualit Porcelain Tiles From China System 2
  • Factory Directly High Qualit Porcelain Tiles From China System 3
  • Factory Directly High Qualit Porcelain Tiles From China System 4
  • Factory Directly High Qualit Porcelain Tiles From China System 5
Factory Directly High Qualit Porcelain Tiles From China

Factory Directly High Qualit Porcelain Tiles From China

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1382 m²
Supply Capability:
138200 m²/month

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Key Specifications of Full Polished Porcelain Tile:

Full Polished porcelain tiles

Great natural stone image and high glossy degree

Both silk printing and ink-jetting product available 

Suitable for homes flooring tiles, high grade office buildings, high-grade hotel flooring tiles, government and corporate projects flooring tiles, deluxe clubs flooring and wall tiles

Water absorption: <0.3%

Sizes:600*600mm  800 x 800mm and 1200 x 600mm

Product features: resistance to fading, staining and discoloration, easy to clean

Package: carton + strong wooden pallet

Transportation: by sea

 

 

 Advantages of  Full Polished Porcelain Tile:

 

The porcelain polished floor tiles are non-slip and easy clean and with natural veins.

The porcelain polished tiles are hardness, which are resistant to acid and alkali, waterproof, wear resistance, dirt resistacne.

Good for indoor wall and floor decorations. Elegance, promote your decorate style. 

The porcelain polished tiles with high quality are ideal for creating a beautiful feel in Hotel, House, Supermarket, Shopping Mall, etc

The porcelain polished tiles ,water absorption rate :<0.1%.

Many colors can be chosen.

The porceline tiles have 600*600,800*800 sizes, special sizes available according to request.

CE: GB/T19001-2008¬¬—ISO9001:2008 

This is the best tile for hotel lobby flooring, airport, big project etc..

We have many different color and different design in this series. Please kindly check our website.

It's good for house flooring, super market, shopping mall, warehouse flooring, etc..

Our price is very competitive, and very good quality.

We have many certificates of our tiles

 

 

Main Export Markets:

 

 

Australasia

Central/South America

Eastern Europe

Mid East/Africa

North America

Western Europe

 

 

Product Pictures :

Factory Directly High Qualit Porcelain Tiles From China

Factory Directly High Qualit Porcelain Tiles From China

Factory Directly High Qualit Porcelain Tiles From China

Factory Directly High Qualit Porcelain Tiles From China

Factory Directly High Qualit Porcelain Tiles From China

Factory Directly High Qualit Porcelain Tiles From China

Factory Directly High Qualit Porcelain Tiles From China

Factory Directly High Qualit Porcelain Tiles From China

Q: I have a purple tub and purple tile through out the bathroom ,how do I change the color ,is there paint I can buy
Painting okorder / I will give you a web site that might be able to help you out a little Good luck with your project, hope it turns out well!!!
Q: It‘s been a while since I have done tile, but I remember we used to use sheetrock to cover the floor or for back splash wall, however I don‘t remember what it was used for. Is there special cases when you need to use it or do I need to use it every time? What is the purpose to use the sheetrock?Please help. Thanks.
You never use a sheetrock to do tile. Only as a normal wall covering to be painted in a non wet area such as a back splash or a wainscot. Then that you can tile over. You may have used a product ( or one similar) called Denshield. This is a 1/2 special backer board you can use on floors and you work with it just like a sheet rock. because it was a light weight fiberglass impregnated gypsum board. Just like the 1/2 cement board you could use it on floors and wall where moisture is present and you installed it in a thinset bed of mortar prior to nailing it down. Sheet rock is a general term for dry wall, used for regular walls to be painted. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: We‘re fixing our place and will need about 1200 sq ft of 24x24 tile. Any ideas as to how/where one can get this at wholesale/lower cost? Thanks!
The tiling alone will cost more than $520.20 but you don't say if the tiling refers to the tile alone or the installation too. (12 X 15 X #2.89 =$520.20) Also you must figure into the amount of tile you will need things like breakage, corner or edge cut tiles, if you want tile baseboards to match the floor and patterns. You should conservatively consider about 10% to 20% more tile will be required as overage. You will also have to consider the cost of renting or buying a tile cutting tool, either a wet-saw or a score-and-snap cutter.
Q: I am ready to tile a kitchen island, it has the rough shape of HOME PLATE, though not pointy. What is the best way to cover those odds angles effectively? Should I butt two edge tiles together? Also, I am not fond of the 16th inch spacing in tiles, I prefer 1/4 in gaps...any issues for the top of counter. The sides will be 1/8th gap.AdamDeridder,La
Thousands of sq. ft. of tile. Certainly an Angle grinder with a diamond wheel can give you the cuts and angels that might work in as close as the rest of the perimeter tiles. A decent grit grind wheel can be used carefully to round off. In some measure your success will depend on the type of tile. Ceramic is as stable as Porcelain, but the glaze is millimeters thick only. I haven't spaced at 1/16th ever. It isn't enough space for grout to ahdhere well enough. 1/8th or 1/4 is standard, and sanded grout, polymer based. Steven Wolf
Q: OK here is my problem. I want to switch my bath tub to an all-tile shower and wonder how to do it. So far the tile were set onto a cement board that was itself put on top of the drywall. I am wondering if this is a common thing. From all my research, it looks like tile should be on the cement board, but there is no use for extra drywall behind it. It actually makes things tougher because you need some sort of corner tile instead of normal bullnose since the cement board and the rest of the wall are not at the same level.My second question is: is there an order to do all this i.e. should I make the shower pan (sort of rubber sheet filled with cement), before or after I install the cement board on the wall. Is there a specific angle used for the drain?Thanks in advance for all your tips.
If you have never done a shower before, I suggest purchasing a shower pan instead of making one yourself. Take out everything around your tub to the studs, then install the plumbing and pan, cement board (no need to have drywall behind it), tile and grout. You will see the drain attached to your tub, will probably need to move it in order to line up for the shower pan. It is not an easy job, depending on how the pipes run and if floor joists will create a problem in moving the drain. You may want to move the supply lines as well to have a typical shower height faucet.
Q: Why should the tiles be soaked before the tiles?
Due to the different water absorption of different tiles, there is no specific standard. But the end result is to tile the water "drink full", no longer take the bubble so far. High water absorption, the bubble will be a long time. Rainy season because of its humid air, time should be correspondingly shortened; heat dry weather, the time will have a corresponding increase.
Q: Is it good to use a white cement?
When using tiles, it is recommended to use a creping agent, which is superior to white cement caulking from firmness and beauty. Tile Cracking agent, also known as brick trenching agent, the material is from the cement, quartz sand, filled with pigments with a variety of additives made by mechanical mixing evenly. Its characteristics: 1, strong adhesion and toughness, can absorb the base surface and the continuous vibration of the brick and the collection, to prevent cracks. 2, with a hydrophobic function, to prevent moisture from the tile seam to prevent moisture and eliminate the phenomenon of anti-pulp tears. 3, non-toxic, tasteless, non-polluting, anti-mildew antibacterial, to ensure that the face is constant often new. 4, colorful, to meet the requirements of different decorative effects. (Color can be deployed on demand side)
Q: Can you lay down those adhesive floor tiles on top of existing tiles? If so, what kind of prep do you need to do to make sure they stick properly. I‘m not sure what type of tiles are in place now, but they are similiar to the types used in schools and other institutions. Very cheap, flexible, and bland. I want to lay something down in place of them, but don‘t want to rip them up. Is that possible? Thanks!
I wouldn't sign my name to a job as you describe, (no offense) and I've installed thousands of sq. ft. of flooring. BUT...If you absolutely don't want to remove the old, and have a sense of their substance (you state school type) perhaps a commercial grade thick vinyl? School type and/or older commercial types are often not exactly flexible and can crack; especially on corners or fitting that is too tight. Certainly you can take the time and effort to rough up the existing. You can also use Lacquer thinner (albeit smelly) to destroy any possible finish from the manufacturer. I do have a suggestion I state in every Vinyl tile Q however. Go to a Lowes or HD. Purchase a gallon or whatever of a water based contact cement. DuPont might be one manufacturer. What I use is a nice looking Aqua color. Peel the paper off the back of the tile as you proceed; Brush on a coat of the cement to the tile back and floor area. Allow dry time and press down. This assumes you've measured/ perhaps squared the room again; dont strictly place the new on the exact seams of the existing; and don't make a mistake in placement. Save your cuts for the last, work toward/ back to an exit point, and allow a few hours at least for some cure time. The water based contact cement is as durable and effective as the lacquer based; dries rapidly; can initially be cleaned up with water; and doesn't have a strictly offensive odor. Steven Wolf
Q: im looking for tips about PORCELAIN floor tiles.I read everywhere they can look like marble but without the maintenance issues, plus it is a harder material.I like the polished finishes .. and saw some samples of them.. rectified porcelain.I can‘t find much info on the net about its shape uniformity, but looks like they are kind of not so squared?I would like them big.. 24 inches, and spaced at the minimum which i think it is 1/8. But a few persons told me that is too close for porcelain and i should go with marble?The problem is that marble is much more expensive... so i don‘t know what to do.Are there brands of porcelain tiles known for their good uniformity... how should i shop for them.,? i don‘t know what to look for. please help.Please do not suggest any other type of flooring... im not interested. If porcelain is always not uniform, then what would the minimum spacing between tiles be so they look fine?Thanks a lot.
I'm not sure what you're looking at but all the porcelain tiles I've seen are square. All square. Very square. There should be no uniformity issues whatsoever. Go to a home improvement store and take a look. The tile type really has very little effect on spacing. However if you want 24 tiles I would suggest 1/4 grout lines at least. It will be extremely difficult to maintain a straight even grout line If you go 1/8. Imagine, if for some reason one tile was out of square a little or slightly offline (which does happen) the grout line would disappear completely. The grout would also be more likely to break if there was any movement in the floor. If you insist on 1/8 spacing, it can be done, but the results will be almost definitely poor.
Q: Should I put in a ceramic tile shower or cultured marble shower? Which would provide a better return when selling the house?
I would go with the tile. In fact, we just ripped out our tuba and shower to replace cultured marble. The marble is a little dated right now and will only look more so in the future. Our house is only about 10 years old but the cultured marble looks a little too '70's and '80's to me. Also, there are many more choices for style and color with tile and it gives you the opportunity to customize the look with much more detail. Let's put it this way, when my wife and I were looking for tile ideas, I visited quite a few new home constructions sites in nice areas....houses in the 700K to $1 million dollar range. In every case, all the bathrooms were tile jobs, not a single cultured marble bathroom. If you do decide to tile, you probably want to consider tile that would appeal to most people. You want to stay away from the shiny, 4 ceramic tiles in bold colors that were popular years ago. Today, natural stone or natural stone looking ceramics are very popular.

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