• End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series System 1
  • End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series System 2
  • End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series System 3
End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series

End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
200 set/month

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XAZ Series Close Coupling End Suction Centrifugal Pump

General description End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series
The pump mounting dimensions to meet ISO 2858;Design pressure up to 1.6MPa; Seal cavities construction is suitable for both mechanical seal and soft packing seal; All the chemical pump parts are stainless steel precision casting and good appearance. To match different liquid application, material can be Cast Iron, Stainless steel and bronze alloy…etc.

 

Technical data of End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series
Capacity:Q:8-1080m3/h
Head:H:5-100m
Max Working Pressure:1.6MPa
Max Operating Temperature:120℃
Rotation Direction: from the driven end, the pump rotating direction is CW

 

Model meaning of End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series
XAZ 100/40A
XAZ –XAZ Series Close Coupling End Suction Centrifugal Pump
100 - Disharge Diameter (mm)
40 –Impeller Diameter divided by 10
A- Impeller Trimmed Code

 

Applications of End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series
Civil, Chemical industry, Metallurgy, Light industry.
Such as : Buildings, water works, irrigation, HVAC ; oil processing, Steel industry, silver-smelting, copper-smelting, iron-smelting, Tin-smelting, aluminium -smelting, zinc-smelting…etc non-ferrous metal smelting. Foodstuff, pharmacy, drink water, clean water, alcohol, desalination of sea water and water treatment

 

FAQ of End Suction Single Stage Centrifugal Pump of XAZ Series

1. Are your pumps protected against dry running?

No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

2. How can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

5. Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

 

 

Q:The water pump on my 1997 corolla has been leaking, I want to replace it by myself. I did some research online, and get the diagram of the engine structure. It seems to me it is not very hard to do, but who knows, it might end up being a very tricky job. Did anyone replace the water pump on 97 corolla before? How difficult was it? Two things I actually worry: 1. It might be hard to unbolt the water pump pulley, because there is little room insert a wrench. 2. Also, because of the lack of room, it would be also hard to unbolt the timing belt cover (the 2nd/middle cover). A shop gave the quote of $440 to replace the water pump, and I think I should be able to do it myself.
Think about the engine timing, its the most important. If you put the timing belt back in at wrong timing it'll be a big problem.
Q:Our CRN series pumps used in the 414V 480V 60Hz 60Hz power supply, what would be the effect? Is not the head can be reduced, there is no water pump and lift what voltage relationship?
Our CRN series water pump 1, 480V 60Hz in 414V 60Hz power supply, won't have what effect, only voltage drop corresponding to the current rise. Water pump head will not decrease.2, the water pump voltage and head have no direct corresponding relationship.
Q:I have a 1978 El Camino V8 305. My power steering has been going out on me, and since then my belt has been squeaking usually when it first starts up. This morning when I got to work, smoke was bellowing from under my hood. Im trying to troubleshoot. Is it possible that my power steering pump damaged the belt enough that the water pump went out?
The only method of positive identification is to use a mechanics stethoscope. A failing bearing is most likely causing the whine, but wear in the p/s pump can also create a whining noise which will get noticeably louder when the wheel is turned and held against the stop with the engine running.
Q:yesterday the electric went out for a while we had some big storms and now the water doesnt work, the pump is running but there is no water coming out, i need help on how to fix it, please. hurry
You might need a new foot valve. That keeps the water from draining back into the well. Depending on what type of pump you have, could be at the bottom of the well. To bleed the well, you need to remove the plug on the motor...it looks like a nut...about 3/4. You remove that and fill with water...when its full, turn the pump on and keep filling it till it gushes out...put the plug in (with new teflon tape) and it should work. Be careful not to touch the electrical, could get shocked. Its easy if the foot valve is good.
Q:Stop the engine immediately and stop the circulating pump and the condensate pump. What's the harm to the turbine?
Then look at what is the circulating water pump and condensate pump users, circulating water with oil in the oil cooler then, condensed water supply pump seal water, water pump can't pump up, how will you know.
Q:I have a 2000 Dodge Stratus and recently had the coolant drained (not quot;flushedquot;, as the mechanic wanted to charge $125 extra for that). Prior to that time I never had a single coolant leak, but since then, I've had the coolant leak out slowly over about a 2 week period of normal stop go traffic. Now the mechanic is saying the water pump is leaking, and that's going to be another $600+ more to fix (over 5 hrs of labor), which I really don't have the money for right now.So two questions.. 1) what could've happened to cause the water pump to suddenly start leaking only after the coolant was drained, when it was fine before that? and 2) should I try using a quot;Radiator Stop Leakproduct? I know people say they can plug up the whole radiator, but if that were the case 100% of the time, you'd think these products would've been made illegal a long time ago.SO realistically what are the chances of it doing more harm than good? I still plan on getting the water pump replaced, it'll just have to be awhile.
Stop leak does work in some cases but not for a water pump the leak is coming from the seal on the shaft as for it being $600 for a water pump? find another shop as for a pump from a salvage yard? no the seals are most likely dried out they drain the fluids when they salvage a car . what happened to cause the leak? chances are that when draining the old fluid from the system the fluid was thick from age and holding it togather this is common with cooling systems and transmissions as if u wait to long to change its fluid it will cause the transmission to fail. the pump may be 10yrs old time to replace (not for $600) stop leak while has its places wont work on a moving part (IE water pump shaft)
Q:Water pump motor often caused by water can not run, how can solve?
You are immersed in water or oil pump pump, if flooding do not be afraid, if you put oil thread wrapped with waterproof tape, general water pump inlet is in the end, you want what the price of copper or aluminum pumps, the price is basically the same, do not buy too cheap water pump
Q:About 3 weeks ago our water stopped. We replaced the switch at the pump and it was fine. Today when I was running water, it stopped again. I went and flipped the breaker on it, but it still didn't come on. About 20 minutes later, it started working again. Have you ever had this happen or do you know what the problem could be?
The pump has a capacitor start motor. Electrolytic capacitors fail. The capacitor is not physically down the well with the motor though, just electrically connected. There should be a pump control box on your wall somewhere with a pump shut off lever on the side, some relays and a large motor start capacitor hidden inside the box. Kill the main power, open the box, remove the capacitor and replace it with a new one with the same number on it. You can get them at any pump supply place, or even just order it on the internet. I recommend taking a picture first for reassembly if you can't understand the schematic on the inside of the box. Sometimes electrolyte from the bulged out old cap obliterates the schematic anyway, so having a pic is a good idea. Look on the internet for motor start caps if you can't figure out which item it is.
Q:So, my husband and I bought a 1993 Chevrolet Corsica a couple of months ago. This weekend we took a trip that ended up being about 400 miles round trip. About 300 miles into our trip, the Check Engine light came on, but there was no noticable problem with the car, no overheating, no clanking or odd smells, the light went off about 2 minutes later. So we got it home, no problems whatsoever. My husband drove it to work this morning, and we were preparing to go to the store tonight in it, and we noticed a massive amount of radiator fluid under the car and the overflow bottle was empty. The leaking appears to be coming from the engine, and the antifreeze is running down one of the upper belts. Could this be a water pump problem? If so, what is the average cost to repair one (I know water pumps are relatively inexpensive, but we'll need to take it in to a shop). Does anyone have any idea? All replies will be greatly appreciated.
we've a Jetta and the water pump went at 30,000 miles. Its meant to final plenty longer till the timing belt desires to get replaced. the reason they use plastic for the impeller is so if it fails it would not injury the timing belt. while the pump fails you may notcontinual the motor vehicle for any distance, the engine overheats, the warning lighting fixtures come on and thats it. in case you endured tocontinual you would be able to desire to doubtlessly grab the engine or a minimum of blow the top gasket and deform the top, those engines are all aluminum and can't stand to be overheated.
Q:Domestic pump automatic shut off the water, but also turn around, stop what happened?
What should have Water Leakage place, check all the toilet faucet is Water Leakage, Water Leakage, water heater and so on, if no problem, to check the pump, which has a check valve, when the valve is broken, can not maintain the pressure, there will be the phenomenon

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