• Concentric overhead conducting wire JL/G1AF  JL/G2AF System 1
  • Concentric overhead conducting wire JL/G1AF  JL/G2AF System 2
  • Concentric overhead conducting wire JL/G1AF  JL/G2AF System 3
  • Concentric overhead conducting wire JL/G1AF  JL/G2AF System 4
  • Concentric overhead conducting wire JL/G1AF  JL/G2AF System 5
  • Concentric overhead conducting wire JL/G1AF  JL/G2AF System 6
Concentric overhead conducting wire JL/G1AF  JL/G2AF

Concentric overhead conducting wire JL/G1AF JL/G2AF

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
200 m
Supply Capability:
100000 m/month

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Product properties:  

1. The long-term working temperature allowed by overhead conducting wires is 70°C;  

2. When there are large-span rare weather conditions and there is less ice coating occurring in heavy ice areas, maximum stress the lowest point of the conductor sag should not be more than 60% of instantaneous destructive power;

3. When the wires are connected, strands around the connecting pipe should not bulge, otherwise the strands of wires in operation will be unevenly stressed, after the joints are pressed, outlets of connecting pipe should be covered with moisture-proof paint to prevent corrosion; 

4. When the wires are installed, sag stress of all the wires at the same gear should be the same, and within the range permitted by the limited distances to the ground and exceeding the distance for protection of building, the conducting wire stress can be higher by 10-15% than normal tension.  Scope of application:  This product is applied to overhead power transmission and distribution lines.


Scope of application:

This product is applied to overhead power transmission and distribution lines.


Type and Specification:

New Type

Original type

Description

Specification No.

JL

LJ

Aluminum stranded wire

10--1500

JL/G1A  JL/G1B

LGJ

Steel cored aluminum stranded wire

16--1250

JL/G1AF  JL/G2AF

LGJF

Anti-corrosion steel cored aluminum   stranded wire

16--1250

JLHA1   JLHA2

LHAJ

Aluminum alloy stranded wire

16--1250

JLHA1/G1A  JLHA2/G1A

LHAGJ

Steel cored aluminum alloy stranded   wire

16--1120

JL/LHA1  JL/LHA2

LLHAGJ

Aluminum alloy cored aluminum stranded   wire

16--1400

JG1A  JG1B  JG2A  G3A

GJ

Steel stranded wire

6--63

JLB1A  JLB1B JLB2

LBGJ

Aluminum-clad steel stranded wire

4--200






Q: What is the difference between an ordinary power cable for a dedicated cable?
Another example is the flashlight and electric shaver although the voltage is very low, power and current is very small, is still strong
Q: Why medium voltage power cable sometimes write 8.7 / 10kv sometimes written in 8.7 / 15kv where the difference
. 1.8.7 / 10kV U value of 10KV, which can withstand the maximum voltage of 12KV8.7 / 15kV U value of 15KV, which can withstand the maximum voltage of 17.5KV2.8.7 / 10kV is 10KV system in the first Class II cable (fault time can be greater than 1 minute) 8.7 / 15kV is the first type of cable in the 15KV system (failure time is not more than 1 minute) 3.U0 / UU0 - conductor and insulation shield between the voltage U - the The voltage between the conductors is two, the cable is usually a few or several groups of wires [at least two] stranded from the rope similar to the cable, each group of wires insulated from each other, and often around a central twist The entire outer package has a highly insulated cover. Multiple in the air or in the ground, underwater, for telecommunications or power transmission.
Q: I have a Technics SL-D20 Turntable recently purchased from a garage sale that lacks a power cable. The turntable has a 2 prong adapter, but it is not one that has a square and semi-circular portion, but rather seems to accept an elliptical two pronged cable. It is listed on the back as Power Source AC120V 50 or 60hZ 6wThank you
Man that could be tough. It sounds like a belt drive turntable, I'm sure of the name of the part, but it's basically there to move the belt; it isn't metal so it isolates the belt, thus reducing vibration and transmission of motor noise. That's what I think it is anyway. I'll bet if you go on some audiophile web sites, you can find a parts listing for that model, and get a name and part number. Technics were very popular, I've got a belt drive one myself that I haven't hooked up in 10 years.
Q: I have nine month old twins and they are starting to crawl and touch everything and I dont want them to get hurt. How can I hide all these loose cables. (modem, phone lines, power surges, chargers, camera cables, etc)
You need a rubber cable duct, or cable trestle. The are sold by office supply places everywhere. They're usually made of rubber and the profile (end view) is that of a triangle or truncated pyramid. They usually come in lengths up to twelve feet. They're made to lie as flat as can be on the floor, but the higher profile models (when you need many cables hidden) don't quite allow casters to roll over them, and may present a tripping hazard. If you can run cables along a wall, try a cable raceway. Some models look like larger base molding, and are fairly unobtrusive.
Q: Can I do the big 3 upgrade by only doing the 2 ground cables(battery to chassis and engine block to chassis) now and doing the power to the alternator at another time? Will this give me a little performance boost until I can get enough material?
Yes, that is fine. That is what i did in my car because it was a pain to get to the alt and i had a new one on the way. My voltage was dropping to around 13 volts before i upgraded the two grounds and after it never dropped much past 13.5. It is more of a problem to upgrade power cable and not the grounds, not to upgrade grounds and not power.
Q: I have vtech 5.8 phones that you plug in to the electric socket. It is also connect to the internet.So if the power goes out so does the phone. What phone can you get the will work if the power and cable goes out
You need either 1. A conventional land-line WITH a CORDED phone. If it's not corded, you need a wireless phone with a battery-powered base 2. If you use VOIP (internet-based phone) you should look into a service provider that gives you a modem with a battery. But really, unless you use a regular land-line with a corded phone, you are relying on batteries which need replacing (even the rechargeable ones) plus it's difficult (not impossible) for 911 calls to automatically be traced to your location.
Q: Im running a dedicated power cable from battery to trunk for 2 amps and i just want to know if drilling a hole through the firewall is the only way to do it? What happens in 15 years when the hole gets rusted and coroded from the moisture even with a gromet?
2 amps is a pretty small current so it doesn't need a big cable - there are other cables passing through for the back lights, find out where they run and see if you can just ease another one through the gap,it might work with a little lubrication. Just don't try to poke anything sharp through the hole. There are special fish wires that electricians use to get cables through holes conduits, you could try one of those or at least see how they are shaped so you can use something similar - you'll only need a short fishwire you probably have to buy a 5m length if you want the real thing. Good luck.
Q: I need to change a cable that goes from public power lines to power meter because its skin/protecting shield is peeling off. What happens is that I need to fix this issue as soon as possible but do not know what kind of cable should be used for repair. I would greatly appreciate your help. Thank you!
examine the entire load modern-day score of the motor then length your cable for a voltage drop interior the wires of decrease than 5%. With that long of a run the voltage drop attention would be greater stringent than the optimal modern-day for the cord gauge.
Q: i hooked up all my 4 gauge power ground cable from the batteries of my truck i passed both of them thru the fire wall but what i was wondering is will i have a problem since its the power ground coming thru the same hole thru the fire wall or will i be all good ? somebodyy help
you should never run your ground to your battery, to your amp.. it should be as short as possible, and attached to bare metal , like the frame. and if you have an issue with one, you could very quickly have an issue with both.. I REALLY hope you fused at least the power wire!!!!!
Q: Two things:1.) Why when we're using an AC to step up the voltage the power has to remain constant?2.) Why is it if we increase the voltage by a factor of 100 we have to decrease the current by a factor of a hundred and therefore I^2R is decreased by a factor of 10,000
Power is generated at the power station and transferred to the end user your home by means of power cables. Unfortunately, some power is always lost in this transfer process. It's power NOT Voltage OR Current that is required to operate your home electrical appliance. Yes, current and voltages are involved ;but it is the PRODUCT of these two that makes up the power NOT the voltage or current individually. Power = Voltage x Current Power is lost in the cables as heat as given by your i^2R. To reduce the losses then we must reduce the current I. But, if I reduce the current and keep the voltage the same then the power will fall and my kettle/Xbox/curling tongs will no longer work at home. So, to keep the power up when reducing the current I must compensate by increasing the voltage and this means using a step up transformer. Near the homes, a step down transformer is used to reduce it back down again. Since the losses in a cable are a consequence of I^2R heating then it is important to reduce the current as much as possible when transferring power. If we assume the the resistance, R of the cable is constant, then a 10,000 reduction in power (power/10,000) gives P/10,000 = I^2 x R I^2 = Power/10, 000R I = square root of [const x 10,000] I = 100. Then using power = voltage x current reducing the current by 100 means increasing the voltage by 100 to keep the power the same.

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