Light Bulb Filament Wire

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nan
The wires you describe control the relay that starts the AC unit. The main power wires are heavy duty (black and red if this is a 220 volt unit). The light guage wires are low voltage AC and connect to the thermostat. DO NOT joint the red and white wires. There will be a terminal for the red wire. You will have to find out which one it is. Try to get the wiring diagram for your unit from the Internet or call a service professional.
Why are some wires (especially thin ones, like ones connecting a battery pack in a toy) made up of many wires instead of just being one solid piece of metal?
It's called stranded wire. A solid wire is rigid and will break after only a few times bent. Solid wire is cheaper and is used in house wiring where it does not need to flex. But even automotive wiring uses stranded wire because otherwise the vibration would cause breaks in no time. You may get some answers about high frequency skin effects but few people actually understand it and most of the information about it is wrong.
Will a subwoofer amplifier wiring kit be for the sub and the amplifier???? Because I'm searching online and I can find amplifier wiring kits, but not a subwoofer wiring kit. Only a subwoofer amplifier kit???
Yea a amp kit usually don't *** with speaker wire you have to get it seprete
i want technical names of the electrical equipments rheostat,wire wound
1) Anvil Dome, Backsheared Anvil 2) Dust Devils 3) Waterspouts 4) Funnel clouds
I am in the process of installing a new thermostat, but I ran into the problem: new thermostat has 4 ports W, Y, R and G. But the old thermostat has 5 wires: W, Y, G and B. I am not sure where B wire (black color) should go. Do I need to look for another thermostat that has a port for B wire?
The black wire should be for ground. You and try to connect it without the black first to see if everything works ok, if it does tape off the black and tape it to the other wires. If not look at your UPM diagram and see which port is for ground and it should hook up with that wire. But I would double check with the heat pump wiring diagram to see what that black goes to and verify that wire with a multimeter.
The power supply is at the fixture in this case. I have 2 black wires (1 is the hot, I connected the hot to the other black to continue to the switch. The other wires are 2 white wires, 1 red wire and 2 grounds. At the switch there are multiple wires, including 3 black wires, 1 red, 3 white and 3 ground. One of the black wires I know goes on to other fixtures in another room. My issue now is I cannot get my main fixture I was trying to change the switch on to work and don't know which wire to connect to the switch. Right now I have removed the switch completely so the other rooms lights will work. Here is how I have it set up now. At the fixture black to black, white to white, red capped 2 grounds capped together. At the switch area: Black (hot from the fixture) to 2 blacks, all 3 whites connected, red is capped, and grounds are together. Which wires do I connect to the switch to control the fixture and still allow the other rooms lights to work. HELP!
The key is the red wire. At the switch junction, attach the red wire to one terminal of the switch. Combine all the black wires into one bundle and pigtail off a length of wire to attach to the other terminal on the switch. The black wires are now all constant hot, and the red wire is the switch leg going up to the fixture. The white wires should remain bundled by themselves. The bundle of ground wires can also be attached to the green ground terminal on the switch if one is present. At the fixture junction, bundle all white wires together and do the same with the ground wires. Attach the red switch leg to the black fixture wire. The remaining black wires in the junction should be bundled together to remain isolated from the fixture.
Just bought a new amp for my truck. The speaker outputs needs to be indiviually wired to the door speakers. Do you splice into the speaker wire or the trucks harness?
ideally you want to wire directly from the amp to the door speakers with new speaker wire but doing this properly requires removing some of the trimming and passing the new wires throughout the car. you can also take the easier route and pass the wires from your amp up under the steering wheel behind the center console and splice them into the existing wires going to the door speakers. as long as the wattage isn't very high the latter shouldn't be a problem. however, if it were up to me i would use new wires and pass them throughout the car, removing the trimmings, etc. this can be somewhat of a pain to do if you have never done it before though.
Live wire- bring current to appliancesNeutral wire- returns the current from the applianceMy question is, if we are using AC current, then in the next half cycle, the live wire will return the current from the appliance and the neutral wire will bring current to appliances. Am I right? If I’m right, then both wires have the same function why give them different names? Really appreciate your help.
I wish I could give you a more technical answer, but here is a simple one: The change in potential or voltage changes (in AC) from positive to negative in the hot wire. The neutral has NOT change in potential. The voltage is always 0. Put another way, If you put an appliance between a ground and another ground, no current will flow. If you put an appliance between a hot and a neutral, current will flow. If you put an appliance between two hot wires, current may or may not flow, depending on other factors.