CDJS2F Super Timing Relay CDJS2Y Star-delta Conversion Relay

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Q:What would cause RPM and fuel level gauge on 1999 Mitsubishi Galant not to work?
Double check the fuse box. You may have checked the fuse that list the gauges, but there could be a second fuse running those 2 gauges. It might be listed under the fuse but behind some other components that that fuse also runs. If not, I would pull and check all fuses in case they didn't list it right. Also there maybe a second fuse/relay box under the hood. Check that too.
Q:Is it possible to remove the service engine light completely, and is there a fuse that will do this?
Tamper proof by whose terms? The average guy, maybe so. The average GM tech, maybe not. Depends if the lamp is replaceable or built into the dash assembly. Replaceable, you just get down to removing the dash assembly (no fun, usually) and pull the lamp. But as you say, Why? To go to that much trouble to hide some problem would be something a typical disreputable used car lot would pull. But on the other hand, if you've had it hooked up to a diagnostic computer and nothing shows for now, who knows if it's been tampered with or just a bad lamp. The seat belt light is another issue, unrelated to the other. Could be a simple switch bad in the retractor assembly. And if you wear the seat belt anyway, you don't really need 'reminding'.
Q:What electrical modifications do I need to make for 2 15 Kicker L7's?
Actually they really are 2000 a piece depending on how you set the gain with a lot of watts to it. 100 amp fuse is awfully small for that system, you need to get up to 250 or 300 amps if you plan to run 1 ohm an another thing what ohm are the subs?? cause if they are 2 ohm subs then you're gonna need a amp for each sub.
Q:What happens if you use more volts / watts than what an appliance needs to work?
if V I R, you are effectively increasing V while keeping R constant; so I through the device must increase. Power dissipated by the device I^2 R : so by doubling the applied voltage, you'd quadruple the power dissipated by the device. If you're lucky and the components can handle the additional heat dissipation requirement, then nothing will happen except the device will become quite hot to the touch. If the components can't handle the additional heat being generated, the device will burn out. If you're lucky, there is a single fuse or component that will burn out and break the circult; stopping the flow of current. If you're not lucky, then the device could continue to heat up and eventually catch fire. you need to buy/acquire/build a voltage converter/power supply -- something that will take the input voltage and current and output the voltage'/current required by the device. Running 12V electronics from a car lighter socket, you encounter this all the time. The DC adapter basically takes the raw 12.6V and ensures that the voltage/current specification required by the device are met.
Q:General Physics question about electrical components?
hmm - the fuse resistance was very low, the diode was infinite 'cos it didn't conduct - it would have done if you reversed the polarity ( turned it round!). This was an experiment - you do not ask what they are supposed to read, it's your job to find out by measuring.!!! That's Physics, not Criminology! The resistor could be out of tolerance, but so what? Just measure it's value as it is now.
Q:96 Chrysler Concord fuse?
I know you said that you checked the fuses ,but did you check both fuse boxes .You should have one under the dash and another one under the hood. It sure sound like you have a blown fuse to me.
Q:Can I use a 32v buss AGC 20 fuse instead of the 15A fuse that burned out?
As the other poster said it is usually safe short term. The real question is what caused the fuse to blow in the first place. If you know you did something that caused it to blow (like caused a temporary ground on the positive side with an errant screwdriver), then it is very safe to overfuse the circuit until you can buy a new fuse. If you don't know why the fuse blew, by putting in a 20 where a 15 belongs, you are going to allow 5 more amps of pressure on that circuit. This added amperage could allow the circuit to remain active when it shouldn't and result in damage further down the path. Even if it's just a clock fuse, you could be courting a hot wire that might melt and cause real damage to expensive components. In the future when you post, indicate the car year, make, model and in the case of a fuse, what it supports in the car. For instance if this were a BMW 3 series E46 they are known to have taillight issues due to poor grounding. So with more information, the answer you receive here might be more informative. Good luck
Q:Charging problems on a 96 Beretta Z26 3.1 v6?
Go to a wrecking yard and get a fuse box cover. You can also test your system yourself for a short or parasitic draw. First, shut off all the car's lights and accessories then close all the doors. With the battery in the car, first remove the negative battery terminal. Now, using a multimeter set to the DC volts scale put one probe on the negative terminal of the battery and the other probe to ground. Read the meter. If you read more than about a quarter of a volt, you have a draw somewhere. Troubleshoot the draw by having someone remove fuses one at a time until you see the meter voltage drop. When you see the voltage drop, you’ve found the circuit in which you have a power drain. Thoroughly examine that circuit, area by area, until you locate the reason for the voltage drop. Isolate and repair the problem. If this doesn't fix the problem, take extra care for a few days and see that all the lights are off before you walk away from the car for the evening. It could be something so simple as a door that hasn't closed fully, causing an interior light to remain on overnight or maybe a bad switch on an under hood or trunk light. Any of those are more than enough to do the job. I've done it myself, more than once. Usually, a full battery charge will take care of it. Even a jump start and running the car for an hour or so should build your battery up enough to get you going again as long as your alternator is doing its job.
Q:can u hurt a e.c.m. on a car using a test light checking fusses or 4 probing wires?
Checking fuses is fine - probing the electronic module wires with a test light can easily short out an internal component.
Q:Where is a 2003 Mazda6 Fuel Pump Fuse and Relay Located?
It is in the fuse box by the drivers left foot. you have to pull the fuse panel off and then the panel that it attaches to. In my car it was the black relay in the front of the fuse box. It isn't marked on the inside of the fuse panel.

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