• Butterfly Valve DN150 Turbine Type with Hand Wheel BS Standard System 1
  • Butterfly Valve DN150 Turbine Type with Hand Wheel BS Standard System 2
Butterfly Valve DN150 Turbine Type with Hand Wheel BS Standard

Butterfly Valve DN150 Turbine Type with Hand Wheel BS Standard

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China main port
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
5000 set/month

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1. Manual Wafer Butterfly Valve Description:
A butterfly valve consists of body ,stem ,disc , actuator (manual actuator, worm-gear actuator , aerodynamic actuator or electric actuator) , and wafer type butterfly valve can implement the process for turning on turning off and regulating the flow by the circumrotation of stem and disc  that is droved by actuators.
A butterfly valve is a valve which can be used for isolating or regulating flow. The closing mechanism takes the form of a disk. Operation is similar to that of a ball valve, which allows for quick shut off. Butterfly valves are generally favored because they are lower in cost to other valve designs as well as being lighter in weight, meaning less support is required.

2.Main Features of the Manual Wafer Butterfly Valve
a)Cast hole. Flange connection meet ANSI 125/150#   DIN PN10/16   BS4504 PN10/16 in the meanwhile.
b)Soft seat. Replaceable. Increase of service life.
c)Double half shaft without pin.
d) Square and short neck. Easy to stick scutcheon and cost saving.
e).Simple and compact construction. Small in size and light in weight. Easy transportation, installation and maintenance.
f).Quick 90 degrees on-off operation. Minimized operating torque ,energy saving.
g). Excellent sealing performance with no leakage. Long service life.
h). Wide selection of materials ,applicable for various media..
i). Flow curve tending to straight line. Excellent regulation performance.
3. Manual Wafer Butterfly Valve Images:
 Butterfly Valve DN150 Turbine Type with Hand Wheel BS Standard

 

Butterfly Valve DN150 Turbine Type with Hand Wheel BS Standard

4.Manual Wafer Butterfly Valve  Specification:
Butterfly Valve DN150 Turbine Type with Hand Wheel BS Standard 

5.FAQ
 1. What is manual wafer butterfly valve?
A: Wafer style is the more common of the two and is less expensive than the lug style. The wafer style butterfly valve is just about the standard. It ís so common that no one even bothers to use the word "wafer" when ordering a butterfly valve. It is taken for granted that if a butterfly valve is ordered, a wafer style will be received.
 
2. How about the Installation of the Wafer Style Butterfly Valve?
A: Butterfly valves are installed by inserting the valve between two flanges using bolts or studs and nuts to hold it all together. This type of installation, of course, makes it impossible to disconnect just one side of the piping system from the valve. That benefit is received using the lug style valve.
 
3. What is the working principle of manual wafer butterfly valve?
 A: A butterfly valve is from a family of valves called quarter-turn valves. In operation, the valve is fully open or closed when the disc is rotated a quarter turn. The "butterfly" is a metal disc mounted on a rod. When the valve is closed, the disc is turned so that it completely blocks off the passageway. When the valve is fully open, the disc is rotated a quarter turn so that it allows an almost unrestricted passage of the fluid. The valve may also be opened incrementally to throttle flow.

 

Q:hello I am having trouble inflating my back wheel tube. so i guess i will just tell you what happened. well i came back from the bike shop with a presta valve adapter and i put it on my tube. it fills up too near full psi but just after a ride around the block it is flat. i have no idea why. please help me! also its a mavic tube 700 x 23, vittoria rubino pro 700 x 23 tire, and a vuelta xrp 17 deep v back wheel. thanks!
OK, okorder /
Q:what are the factors should be know to select a control valve for specified application
nan
Q:I recently converted my furnace from l.p. gas to natural gas. It's been maybe two weeks of me troubleshooting and replacing. I have a new gas valve and transformer in the furnace. There is 24v running to the valve and it clicks to open but no gas comes out. I have exhausted all my options with the mechanical/electrical components on the furnace. I have bled the valve to be sure that there was gas making it to the inlet side. Does anyone have an idea as to why the valve stopped opening once I converted it over?
I realize this is probably a dumb question, but it has to be asked, just so everyone else won't have to wonder. Are you dead sure you put the valve on in the right direction? I'm not a certified furnace installer or repair person, so I don't actually know if it's even possible to put a valve on backwards, so, the question. It certainly sounds like you've done everything that could be done, other than to take the valve off and try getting it to open while it's off. If it's opening, it should do it on a bench, with 24 volts going to it. You may have to take the transformer with it to be sure, and actually look up in the holes to see if you can spot the flap opening up for the gas to flow. You haven't mentioned a pilot at all, so I have to wonder if this is an igniter type system? That would be my methodology of checking the valve and the transformer. If you can get it to open on the bench, then it certainly should open in place.
Q:What is the purpose of the LNG Vs Propane Valve that has to be installed on Gas Stoves/Ovens before use ? How can I set it myself for Propane ? What negligible effects would I experience if I hook a stove up to Propane while the valve is set-up for LNG ?Thank You !
Gas ovens, and furnaces on natural run at 3.5 inches of water column and propane is at 10.5 inches of water column. Therefore the pressures are different. If you were to run a natural stove on propane you would be eating soot, and it would end up on your walls backsplash, inside the oven etc. This is to be done only by a professional
Q:people tell me i need to install new valves and valve guides
You might not need new valves or valve guides. Mitsubishis, along with many other vehicles, use hydraulic lifters which give off a ticking sound. They're located between the rocker arm, or in the rocker arm, and the head of the valve. It's very common and will not harm the engine. However, if the sound you're hearing is more of a rattling, like putting some nuts and bolts in a glass jar, you may need to pull the valve cover off and inspect for yourself to make sure that the rocker arms do not have any play to them while they are pushing on the valves. If there is any play in the rocker side to side, you may need to replace those rockers. However, if there is any play up and down you may just need to replace the lifter. To better check if you need new valves or valve guides run through this checklist: Are you burning oil? Have you done a compression test (both wet and dry)? And if so, were the compression numbers within spec? Have you felt a loss in power/idle quality/gas mileage? Is your oil level correct/using the correct oil/non-FRAM oil filter? At your next oil change, instead of using the recommended 5W-30 engine oil, try switching to something a little heavier, such as 10W-30, to cancel out the effect of possible lifter tick. Do not use a FRAM oil filter if you have in the past since they're filters tend to have additives that are unnecessary and may cause the engine harm.
Q:my valves got dirty long story how do you clean them
Remove the valves, wash them and the horn in warm (NOT hot) water with liquid dish soap. Dry with a clean towel, then oil and reassemble.
Q:Ball valves are much more reliable. Also, if you have the gate valve for the main shutoff, is it against code to put a ball valve right after it, so you have a working shutoff when the gate valve fails?
I agree with Ed. I have had far more problems with gate valves than ball valves. They can break in either the on or off position which can really be inconvenient. They usually break on me in the off position after performing minor plumbing repairs.I will often use the main shut off at the street if I see an old gate valve. If you are required to use a gate by local codes (I don't know your codes but here in California a ball valve is fine) put the ball valve after it and use it for your shut off.
Q:freak accident broke the shutoff valve at my toilet, so first thing i did was shut the water off at the main shut off valve inside the house. then fixed the toilet shut off valve then went to turn the water back on at the house valve and it ran for a few seconds and that was it. so i then went to the main valve at the street to make sure it was open. it was open as well as all the others inside the house. still no running water. please help.
The service valve inside your home may be in dis-repair as well. These valves rarely get used and will have a tendency to stick in the shut position once the valve has been shut. If you have access to the curb stop at the street and can shut it, then you can go back to the service valve, take off the bonnet and see if the gate is stuck in the shut position. A little cleaning, a little Vaseline to lube it up - and you're good to go. Worst case - you'll need to cut it out and replace, preferably with a ball valve.
Q:I have an above ground water pump. there is good pressure(40), but the pump does not stop. Pump co did diagnostic test and said that foot valve needs to be replaced. The company charge me $399 for diagnostic test and and about $2200 for the foot valve replacement. It is reasonable.
Sounds outrageous to me. Besides the price I don't understand how a foot valve would cause the pump not to stop. Basically all a foot valve is, is a one way valve that allows the water to be pumped out of the well, and closes when the pump stops to keep the water from returning to the well. Maybe there is extenuating circumstances that would make the bill so high. A deep well would be more expensive than a shallow well, because there are two pipes to pull and they are much longer. It would be interesting what the invoice says the individual charges were. Parts, labor, etc. $2,599 should be enough to replace the whole system pump and all. Unless of course this is something like an irrigation pump. Good Luck
Q:I heard there are really fine valves, does someone possesses thoughts where to buy these goods? I heard about them on TV. Anybody alive?
Any plumbing supply shop should have them as well as most home stores, but they are generally for a specific purpose such as at the bottom of a well pick up pipe. Basically a check valve to prevent water from draining back to the well when the pump is off, thus eliminating the need to prime the pump for every on cycle. Al

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