Q:I am trying to take 4 lights in the basement that currently all have to be turned on independently and wire them all in series to a single switch. I just took the wires and put them to the switch and then to the first light. it came on but when i held the silver metal shielding piece that houses the wires, I got a tingle. I think that would mean I need to connect the third wire. The grounding one. The light did come on which I think means I had the pos and neg connected right. Where do I connect the ground wire and what caused the tingle? by ground wire I mean the third wire that is nothing but copper. I think I just put it to the case or the light or whatever looks like a good spot to get grounded. any extra knowledge or advice is a big help! In the mean time I will be searching the web for how to's.

If you got a tingle then something is wrong other than the open ground. Something is shorted out

Q:im assuming red to red and black to black? but then what about the extra green and white wires in the iphone cable? where do they go?

Never assume anything. Wire colours in such cables are not necessarily assigned according to a standard pattern. Before you proceed, find printed documentation -- or its online equivalent -- that clearly and definitively shows the functions of the wires by colour. If all of the wires are for audio (which is possible, but not certain), don't connect any sort of power source to any of them. If it is a USB cable, the red and black are power wires, and the green and white are for digital data. A question was posted about USB wire colours on Y!A about 3 years ago (USB wire color code, please help?). The best answer contains enough info to help you.

Q:Does anyone have a schematic?

on the wires it should tell you want the wires are four you should have a red wire black wire.the red is live wire and the back wire is earth wire.and the four you got left is speaker wires

Q:has black wires.

Two black wires in the box would be a hot from the supply and a switched hot to the load. If the timer has only two wires then it should be pretty easy to just connect them. If they are marked line and load then you would have to hook the wire for line to the wire in the box that is always hot from the supply and the other to the wire marked load. If you are still unsure then it really is not a job for you alone, enlist the help of someone with a bit more experience or even an electrician.

Q:I have a 1989 Nissan 240sx. Somehow the fan caught a hold of the wiring harness and tore all the wires. any idea how much it's going to cost?

Depending on how many wires were damaged and need repaired, I wouldn't recommend a repair unless you can solder them and heat shrink them. And you would want to stagger the joints so they are not all in the same place. Getting a used wiring harness shouldn't cost much. Probably the same as getting all the tools necessary to repair them. (if you don't already have them.) then all you have to do is run the new one along the old one and unplug connectors one at a time.

Q:This is the typical Physics problem with the wire and boom connected to a wall with a mass hanging on the end of the wire.Does the tension in the wire increase or decrease when the wire is connected higher on the wall (meaning the angle between the wire and the boom increases).

Assuming the boom is free to pivot at the wall, and a massless wire, the tension in the wire decreases as the attachment point is moved further up the wall away from the boom. There is a constant vertical force (the weight of the boom and the mass attached to its end) that is a constant component of the tension in the wire. The tension must increase to maintain this constant upward force as the wire approaches the pivot point, because the vertical component of tension is the tension multiplied by the sine of the angle between the wire and the boom. As the angle approaches zero, the tension required to support the boom approaches infinity. Conversely, as you move the end of the wire higher up on the wall, the tension decreases, approaching the combined weight of the boom and the suspended mass as the wire approaches being parallel with the wall. So imagine a sign attached to the side of a skyscraper at street level supported by a wire extending to the top of the building. There will be almost no horizontal component to the tension in the wire and the vertical component will just be the sum of the weight of the wire, the boom, and the attached mass.

Q:Need wiring diagram or manual

Bard Air Conditioner

Q:I just tore my old shed down, that was wired for electrical. though I never used power out there There is size 10 wiring (two wires), running from the house to where my shed was. I then bought a Tough Shed from The Home Depot and put it where my old shed was. While working on wiring my new shed for electricity, I turned power off to the entire house.I am trying to install power to the shed and I spliced the size 10 wires to size 14 (three cable, includes a ground) which I have connect to an electrical outlet in the shed, but once I turn the main power box back on, the circuit that runs power to the shed keeps tripping off. Am I missing something here?Thanks

Thats big # 10. Sounds like somebody was running a welder or air compressor. But you can still use it. Do Not forget your GFCI outlet.

Q:I know there must be a difference, and reason why some wires have a solid strand behind the rubber, or some have several strands. can someone explain to me how it works and the differences in wire. m trying to get my head into electricity. resources would be good too.

it just depends on your application, take for example your house has either solid 12 gauge or 14 gauge copper wire. solid copper has less resistance and can handle more amperage compared to say a stranded 12 or 14 gauge wire. you wouldnt wire your vehicle with solid wire would you? i mean theres no point, you dont need the amperage and the resistance of the wire is negligent here due to that fact there is not any long distances in your vehicle, plus it would be a pain to wire a vehicle with solid copper wire. in AC voltage they sometimes use square rectangular wire due to the fact that ac voltage travels on the outside of wire, rather than threw the entire middle, so a square wire offers more surface area.

Q:When wiring an aftermarket car stereo, do you always match color to like color? Also do you have to use every wire from the wire harness?

Assuming the head unit follows the standard color code (there are some cheap Chinese import units that don't) then you should match the head unit wire colors to the harness wire colors. There are a few extra rules, though: -If the harness has a blue wire, and the head unit only has blue/white (no blue), then the blue harness wire should be connected to the blue/white head unit wire. If the harness has a blue/white AND a blue wire, then both of them should be connected to the head unit's blue/white wire. Similarly, if the head unit has only a blue wire and no blue/white, then it should be connected to the blue and the blue/white wires in the harness. -Orange and orange/white can be treated as interchangeable; ie, an orange/white head unit wire can be connected to an orange harness wire, and vice-versa. (If the harness has both an orange and orange/white, though, don't combine them--just use one or the other with the head unit). -Some harnesses have a black/white wire; this can usually be combined with the black ground wire. -Brown and orange/black wires in harnesses should be taped off individually and not connected to anything. -Some harnesses don't have a black ground wire. In this case, the black wire from the head unit will need to be grounded somewhere else. There will usually be wires left over. Make sure each one is insulated so it can't cause a short or contact another wire.