API Cast Steel Check Valve 80 mm in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 100 pc/month
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The features of check valve
Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.
Body and Bonnet Connection
The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.
Body-To-Bonnet Joint
Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.
Seat
For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check valves ,and welded on seat can be also optional if being requested by the customer.Welded on seat is used for NPS>12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.
Standard Criteria | ASME/ANSI/API customize |
Pressure Rating | 150 Class 300 Class 600 Class 900 Class 1500 Class 2500 Class customize |
Valve Size | 50 mm 65 mm 80 mm 100 mm 125 mm 150 mm 200 mm 250 mm 300 mm 350 mm 400 mm 450 mm 500 mm 600 mm 650 mm 700 mm 750 mm |
2 inch 2.5 inch 3 inch 4 inch 5 inch 6 inch 8 inch 10 inch 12 inch 14 inch 16 inch 18 inch 20 inch 24 inch 26 inch 28 inch 30 inch customize | |
Actuator | Automatic customize |
Connection | Butt Welding Flange RF Flange RTJ customize |
1-Body Material | A216 WCB A351-CF8 A351-CF8M customize |
2-Seat ring | A105+13Cr A351-CF8M A351-CF8 A105+Tool Steel customize |
3-Disc | 13Cr+A216 WCB A351-CF8 A351-CF8M Tool Steel+A216 WCB customize |
4-Arm | A351-CF8M A216 WCB A351-CF8 customize |
5-Nut | A194-8 A194 2H A194 8M customize |
6-Arm pin | A182-F316 A182-F6a A182-F304 customize |
7-Yoke | A351-CF8M A216 WCB A351-CF8 customize |
8-Bonnet nut | A194 2H A194 8M A194-8 customize |
9-Bonnet bolt | A193-B8 A193-B8M A193-B7 customize |
10-Bolt | A193-B8 A193-B7 A193-B8M customize |
11-Gasket | graphite+304 316+graphite customize |
12-Bonnet | A351-CF8 A216 WCB A351-CF8M customize |
13-Eye bolt | A181 customize |
Design Standard | API 6D BS 1868 customize |
Connection Standard | API 605 ASME B 16.25-2007 ASME B 16.47A ASME B 16.47B ASME B 16.5 MSS SP-44 customize |
Test Standard | API 598 API 6D customize |
Face to Face | ASME B 16.10 customize |
Pressure-temperature ratings | ASME B 16.34-2004 customize |
Wall thickness dimension | API 600 BS 1868 customize |
- Q:i was filling the tire on my car and the valve stem completely came out when i finished, quickly deflating the tire. i could push it back in but then the process repeated itself when i tried refilling it again. is there part of the stem i'm not seeing. the stem that i saw was long and straight and threaded. advise, thoughts? thanks.
- are okorder /... to see a picture of one The valve is threaded into the stem The stem has threads inside and out ,internal threads are for the schrader valve and external threads are for the stem cap If the stem came out there is damage to the stem and it needs to be replaced ,but if the valve came out try using a schrader tool to screw it back in
- Q:I just got a new set of tired 2 months ago. The last 3 weeks I've had a separate tire go flat (3 in total). The last 3 the repair company said they were caused by cracked valve stems. So after the 3rd time it happened they replaced all valve stems on each tire. Now today I just got a 4th flat. That's 1 each week for the past 4 weeks. I'm taking into the shop this afternoon for them to inspect the tire. I suspect they will say it's again the valve stem. Any help on what I can do or what to say or ask to get them to fix the problem instead of just putting another bandaid on it? I'm very concerned about my safety and it really sucks that everytime i get into my car, I have to wonder, am i going to get a flat tire today...
- if you are running hub caps then maybe they are cutting into the valve stems. try running without hub caps and see if they crack.
- Q:I just fixed a clog in my bathroom sink by taking off the p-trap. I had turned off the water valve beforehand, and when I was done I turned it back on. After this, all that came out of the faucet was a trickle. Turning the valve in the off position does not stop the trickle. When I first turned the valve off before taking off the pipe, the valve was not turned all the way left or right. It was in the middle, but the water flowed fine. When I turned the valve all the way to the right, the water shut off at the faucet. My apartment is pretty old. Is this valve most likely broken?
- Being old plumbing, when you turned off the valve (which you did not need to do to work on the drain) debris probably broke loose in the water line. Turn the valve to the off position again. Disconnect the supply tube above the valve. Hold a rag over the top of the valve and turn it on and off a few times. this should tell you if there is a clog and may clear the debris out. Good luck.
- Q:We have a 4 station sprinkler set-up. On the 4 station (last station to run) the Sprinkler headers are struggle to pop up water. From inside the house I hear the valve making a noise, that continues through out the entire run cycle. Any ideas on what causes these 2 problems to occur?
- Sounds like you have a valve that is not opening up fully. Is the noise coming from within the valve box or from the plumbing inside the house? I am assuming that it is coming from the valve box itself. If the valve is not opeing fully at that 4th station, the low volume of water flowing through the opening is causing a humming sound. And, with a low volume of water entering the lateral lines, your last station heads will not popup all the way, or may not popup at all. Check to make sure that you have no soft, wet, mushy areas on the turf in the last station area that would indicate a lateral line breakage or leek. If you do not see this occuring, you more than likely need to change out the valve and replace it with a new one for that particular system... Hope this answers your question. ...Billy Ray
- Q:what is the difference between the pinch valve and gate valve / knife valve? If someone can help me explain / show me the complete structure of pinch valve and the way it operates, thats better
- a pinch valve has a membrane (or sleeve) inside the valve. When the valve handle is screwed down the membrane is pinch closed. This type of valve is good when the flow needs to be finely controlled. It is also good for slurry (abrasive) flows, as the membrane can be replaced when worn. Gate valves are less effective when the flow must be controlled. They are not used in slurry applications at all, as the gate will be quickly worn away. Knife gate valves can be used in slurry, but are generally totally open or totally closed. The valve must be installed the correct way around, as when closed the weight of the product against the knifegate helps seal the valve. If you have the wrong way around it will tend to leak.
- Q:Where is the fast idle valve located on the dx or ex model year 89-91??? I found the fast idle on my si model but its different on the base model for some reason.
- base models have no fast idle valve. if the rpm are going up and down inspect the water level in the system and have it bled. there might be air in it. if you are messing with the timing or adjusting the idle you are doing something wrong. do not adjust the throttle cable to adjust the idle. it will throw off the tps sensor. use the idle screw. if adjusting idle at the idle screw or timing don't forget to jump the ECU or you will waste your time. btw you know that the IACV needs to be unplugged when adjusting the idle right? no punn intended just checking.
- Q:Does anyone know where i can get a chromed valve cover for a 99 eclipse or is there a way that i can do it myself? id like to get one that has the etched 2.0 and DOHC words on it
- You can have it dipped in chrome and detailed for the lettering. It pricey but its the best way or you could try finding chrome spray paint that is good up to 500 degrees and do it yourself but it may not look as good.
- Q:I was wondering if the pressure relief valve can be vented right under the house or does it have to be ran to the outside of the house. Also is there another method such as a catch pan that I can employ? I live in Washington.
- Most codes state that it must be vented to the outside.Check with your city code enforcer or county office.
- Q:Its a 1981 Monte Carlo SS with a GM 350 crate motor. There is oil all over the heads valve covers. It isn't my car, but I was thinking of buying it..Thank you.
- If my reasoning is correct.. the answer is all to obvious.. the oil spot saturation is caused by none other than Loki, god of mischief and mayhem. If you could kindly point me in the direction of my half-brother I would be more than happy to hit him with my big dumb hammer. -THOR
- Q:I have a 3-circuit sprinkler system in my yard (built by me, last year). I discovered this week that I overtightened the connection between the valves and the downstream pipes, and 2 of the three valves are cracked, and leaking, at the connection. I replaced all 3 valves, and now I need to reconnect them to the supply. But this means I'm working backward - when I bult the system last year, I worked downstream - I built the manifold first, connected the valves, then the remainder of each branch. Now, I have to make the new manifold fit the valves, and naturally, they don't line up perfectly. Any tips/tricks on connecting valves in this situation? Is there such a thing as flexible pipe that can withstand continuous pressure? I'm using unions at both ends of each valve to help things go together/come apart more easily.
- valve manifolds are something that requires practice and experience. i used to struggle with them at work until i did a good bit of them. 3 zones is not that many valves so it shouldnt be too difficult. if they wont line up exactly right, i would recommend adding longer peices of pipe to the mainline side of the vavles and re routing the supply line futher back and you will have more room to flex the pipe and vavles into the Tees and 90s. do not use any form of flexible pipe on any mainline. you will regret it. lol the bigger the hole you dig will give you the most room and the more pipe, and room will give you more flexability to build the manifold. it is easier to connect the valves the way you did it first though, but you can do it either way. good luck and hope this helps
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API Cast Steel Check Valve 80 mm in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 100 pc/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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