• Non-water-cooled Hot Oil Pump LQRY Series System 1
Non-water-cooled Hot Oil Pump LQRY Series

Non-water-cooled Hot Oil Pump LQRY Series

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LQRY thermal oil pump series is made with advanced technology and have high efficiency. It can work steadily long without leakage under heat conditions. It has no additional cooling system and can be used safely and reliably. It's widely used in the thermophore heating system in our country and has entered a lot of industry fields such as petroleum, rubber, plastic, pharmacy, spinning, printing and dyeing, road building, food and so on, used to transport weak-corrosive high temperature liquid not containing solid granules. The using temperature is ≤370℃,and it is an ideal thermal oil circulation pump.

LQRY thermal oil pump series is the second-generation production based on our digestion and assimilation of foreign oil pumps. The basic structure form is single-stage single-suction overhanging scaffold structure. The pump inlet is of axial suction; the outlet is center-vertical-up, fixed on the base with the electric motor.

The underprop of LQRY thermal oil pump series adopts double-end ball bearing structure form. The front end is lubricated with lube, and the back with grease; between them there is an oil-conducting pipe, used to observe the seal condition at any moment and regain heat-conducting oil.

Autothermic heat radiation structure is adopted, which has changed the traditional water-cooling structure. The structure is simplified and the bulk is smaller, which saves your operation cost and makes the performance better and the use more reliable.

LQRY thermal oil pump series (1) adopts packing seal combined with mechanical seal, of which packing seal uses high-temperature filler with good hot adaptability and mechanical seal uses hard alloy material with high mechanical intensity and good wearability that ensure the seal performance at high temperature. (2) Adopts politetrafluoroethylene (PTFE for short) of the 3rd generation to make the lip seal, which makes the seal performance advanced by leaps and bounds, with reliability 25 times higher than that of rubber seal and extremely strong corrosion-resistance.

Q:Not sure of the year model but think it is a 1991 to 1995 Jayco 2500FS bumper pull trailer. I bought it to put on a deer lease. One of the previous owners had taken out the water tank which I plan on replacing. I can't find the water pump to see if I need to replace it as well. Also, if you know about how the pump knows when to kick on i.e. pressure switch, push button or what. I know I could take it to have repairs done but enjoy the diy thing. I am in the process of finding out the exact year model as well. Thanks!
having had many travel trailers the water pump is usually in a cabinet or under a bed or couch with a lot of plastic water lines near where you screw the water hose into the side of the trailer. and they are usually a preset psi from the factory so that is usually nothing to have to worry about and most have an on off switch located in the traier by the kitchen sink.And if the hot water heater is no good look into a tankless water heater it will save you money in the long run but initially you have to have a vent installed up through the roof away from a roof air vent. Another suggestion everytime you move a travel trailer they get the crap pounded out of them and someone needs to go up on the roof with a ladder and/or a plank that goes across the width so there is no weight standing on a roof to make dents or pop seams. Use some plastic stuff like plasticote available at wal mart after you move the trailer and set it up go up and make sure to double coat any of the seams that need it. I crank the heat up inside the trailer and do a double coat the heat rising will put a skin on the plasticote in a few hours instead of 12 or more. and the double coat gets any cracks missed the first time around. After that check it once a year if the trailer stays there.
Q:directions on changing water pump 2001 gmc pickup
how to change water pump in heat maker boiler
Q:I think my water pump is going bad but figure id ask everyone to see what they thought. I leak coolant like the first 20 min i drive my truck and then it will seal itself up for the next day or two then start leaking again. It is getting leaked all over the belt and the fan is spraying it all around so you cant tell where exactly its coming from but i checked all the hoses and they are good and im pretty sure its not the radiator. Also, when it is leaking there is a loud whining noise when my trucks on and i heard that can be from the pump too.
LOOK okorder on internet! WHAT SIZE IS ENGEIN HERE! FOur, five, six, eight yidner from WHAT COMPANY! NOBODY can answer thsi question for you without MORE DETAILS! THANX!
Q:Two sewage pumps switch from each other, start with float switch control, the first sump, when the water is full, the first start, the second rotation to second units start, so the cycle of alternating
The puddle is full, the float switch is closed, and the relay J1 works to drive the first motor. The J1's work makes the intermediate relay 'J' work and locks itself, preparing for the work of the second machines. The water level is lowered to the required minimum position, the ball is broken, the motor is stopped and the motor is stopped. When the water level rose to the highest position again, the floating ball closed again, the relay J2 and self-locking relay J2 to drive second motors, instant intermediate relay are opened, when the water level again be reduced to the lowest position, float off, the motor stops working, stop by working in front of the intermediate relay. The whole circuit back to the original state. So that the two motors work alternately.It should be noted that the circuit diagram for simple to understand, only painted the control circuit, there is no main circuit, there is no missing phase, leakage, over-current and other protection, the actual installation needs to be installed. There is the role of time relay is to ensure that the relay J2 normal work, the intermediate relay is disconnected, so that the motor 2 does not occur wrong action, time relay can be set to a few seconds, or even less than a second. Intermediate relay can also be controlled by time relay, and its time is also set very small, so as to avoid J2 short time possible power supply.
Q:i heard a water pump should not be able to move.is that correct? It is a 1995 RM250. there is no clogging in the pipes coming from the radiators with 2 fingers require force to move them but with the 1 finger it requires no force to move a couple Centimeters.
The water pump is turned by the primary gear on the crankshaft. When you were turning the water pump - the crankshaft was moving the piston up down in the cylinder. The couple of centimeters of movement is just the play between the gears - that's normal.
Q:I replaced the water pump on my 350 chevy small block and the thing is leaking out of the lower bolt hole on the passenger side. I was told to remove the bolt and coat it with permatex hi tack gasket sealer and reinstall it. Any how I'm wondering why there would be a leak there in the first place, any ideas?
Bad water pump!!
Q:Had house power washed today and need my water to work again!
What else got wet? Will it dry? If it doesn't, then shut the power at the panel and change the circuit breaker. Do not bypass the circuit breaker.
Q:the car is a 1973 Pontiac Lemans, 350 V8. Water pump needs to be replaced. It's obviously a mechanical pump that's in there now. I was thinking of getting something with more capacity (to start off) as I feel the car could do with a better cooling system (and I have to get a water pump anyways). I was thinking of getting an electrical pump as that would also free up a bit of power from the engine. From what I gather, by doing this it seems I need to switch to an electrical fan also. Is that the case? Any advice/opinions on electrical systems and set ups? Any recommendations?Thanks in advance to anyone who answers. Much appreciated.
Most 1973 era vehicles have a clutch on the fan which stops turning at higher engine rpm which saves horsepower. Your best option is to locate a high capacity water pump for your car or locate a radiator with more passes than the stock radiator. A radiator shop should be able to give you advise on both. Remember, the water pump is belt driven along with several other items on the engine, so replacing the water pump with an electric one might be far more involved and expensive. Plus, the water pump has a seal that must work properly for the engine to retain its cooling fluid. There are aftermarket cooling fans that can be installed in front of or behind the radiator to provide additional air flow, the local auto parts store should have a listing or a company like Summit. Fans can be manually turned on or have a thermo swithch which turns the fan on at a certain temp. These are usually options with the electric fan kits. Good luck.
Q:I'm trying to sell my 97 Ford Escort. It needs a water pump but I have no idea what the cost is. I just want to know so I can post an estimate of how much it costs on the site I'm selling it on.
A water pump cost between $25.00 and $30.00 in the area where I live or for that matter in most areas of the US. The problem is that water pump replacement is one of the most expensive jobs to perform. A water pump replacement requires the removal of many engine components, such as the generator, fan blades, drive belts and so on taking a few hours to complete. Here is a brief cost breakdown on a typical job like this. Water Pump $30.00 Coolant replacement $15.00 Gasket$ 7.00 Gasket sealant$ 5.00 Labor $ 140.00
Q:could you explain the process by which water is pumped out of the ground for purposed such as drinking water or irrigation? Can you put it in terms a high school senior would understand?
(1) Identify your potential water source through various methods. (2) Drill a small exploratory hole to different depths, test water pressure and water quality. (3) Drill the complete borehole for production and retrieval of the groundwater. (4) Complete the physical well, will a sheath to allow in the water at the wanted levels, solid pluge to keep other levels out. (5) Insert a chemical and physical filter system (small screen membranes, activate charcoal and diatomaceous earth, etc.) (6) Put in the submersible pump and plug it in. (7) The pump is made up of a motor, an intake and a centrifugal pump. It's all sealed so no water can penetrate through. The water is suctioned into the centrifugal pump, which is an impeller type device. The water is then pushed out at a much higher pressure rate than it came in. This is how the pump works from the bottom instead of above ground. The water is sent to the pressure tank, sometimes referred to as a holding tank, and is kept at a constant pressure, so when you turn on your faucet or shower, the water comes out quickly. As you use the water, more water is pumped into the tank and as the pressure drops in the tank, it will automatically come on and pressurize again.

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