JSS72 Digital-display Timing Relay

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Q:I have a pontiac Grand Prix GTP, its 2000 the under hood is clean but not clean enouch, Should i just go to a car wash and use pressure water on the engine components? how does one clean these wiers and stuff the dust seems to be every where, are there any pros who do it for you? is yes how much taht cost?Pls helpThank you: Do the pressure wash. I'd leave the car running, there is no distributer so the chances of killing the car from the water and soap is zero.

Q:For professional mechanics. I have a 93 buik regal with a 3800. It has no ignition fire. It began with intermittent stalling but would start back up. Then it wouldn't start at all. The control module and coils have proven to be good (tested on another vehicle). It has new cam and crank sensor. Harmonic balancer has no damage to the interrupter rings. PCM is good (tested on another vehicle), Cam is turning and cam magnet is present. Performed a thorough continuity check on all wiring in the circuit from every single point, checks good. Still no fire. What did I miss? Remember, all components in the circuit is good and I'm positive the timing chain is not broken.: Well, you show that your fingerprints are all over the components, BUT- how about diagnostics? Have you done pin-out tests at the PCM? G.M. has a known failure rate in the harnesses. Have you tested for voltage? Have you checked the vRef for the components? When you turn the key on, does the MIL illuminate? If not, check the fuses and Vpwr for the PCM. If the MIL does illuminate, have you checked for Diagnostic Codes? If you need, e-mail me, and I will see if I can help out!

Q:Hey, just a bit of physics revision and I was wondering if anyone knew the function of these circuit components, what they do in the circuit, what they measure, why it's needed, etc. Here are the components in a circuit I need to know about:SwitchCellBatteryDiodeResistorVariable resistor LampFuseVoltmeterAmmeterThermistorI.D.R (What does that stand for?!)It would be great to go into detail of what they really do, although some may seem quite straight forward, and just common sense! Even if you don't know them all, or you just know a few, the explanations still help :) Thanks!: Switch- Turns the circuit on. Cell- Basically, a single battery Battery- A pair of cells. Diode- A semiconductor device with two terminals, typically allowing the flow of current in one direction only. Resistor-A resistor is an electrical component that limits or regulates the flow of electrical current in an electronic circuit. Variable Resistor- A variable resistor is a potentiometer with only two connecting wires instead of three. Lamp- A device for giving light, either one consisting of an electric bulb, together with its holder and shade or cover, or one burning gas or a liquid fuel. Fuse-an electrical device that can interrupt the flow of electrical current when it is overloaded. Voltmeter- A device that measures Volts. Ammeter- A device that measures Amps. Thermistor-A resistor whose resistance varies as a function of temperature. Thermistors are used in electrical devices such as thermometers and thermostats that measure, monitor, or regulate temperature. I.D.R- Interval data recorder.

Q:I am trying to keep my battery from dying overnight since i need a new door jamb switch b/c my interior lights will not go off.: disconnect the positive, the negative is used as a ground for most electrical components. By removing the negative and not the positive you are sending power to parts that have no ground!!! - PL

Q:I am going to run one wire off my battery terminal to an auxillary fuse block under my dash. The fuse block has 8 places for 30amp max fuses and the block is rated for 120amp total. The wire I will be running is about 8'-10' long. What is the formula used to figure what gauge wire I need?: You need to size the wire for the maximum current it could carry. If it is directly off the battery and going to a block that is fused for a total of 120 Amps, then you have to assume that the wire could be asked to carry 120 amps before a fuse would blow. According to your chart, that would be a 8 AWG wire (150A for 10 feet). First problem is that 8 * 30A 240A. If you did 8 branch circuits all fused at 30 with no fuse between the block and the battery, you could exceed the rating of the block! The safe way to do this is to add up all the loads you plan to put on this wire, right size the fuses to those loads and then size the wire for that total plus about 10%. You could also put a single fuse right at the battery that would be sightly larger than the total max load current.

Q:a 75kv 750mA fuse has blown in my micowave (sanyo em d953)do these blow because of the age of the machine or is there another reason: Did you know (true story) when microwaves first came out the companies selling them employed a scientist to do a report on them to see if they were safe. He tested them thoroughly, and announced that yes, they were safe. Then went home and threw out his microwave. This is a true story.

Q:I am looking to short out a resistor - any way I can actually short one out so that it is faulty of its own. Also, any ideas if i can blow one so it is open or is the fact it ends up being shorted or open a random thing that when it is bad it just so happens to be one or the other, not that certain conditions produce one and other conditions produce the other.Any insight into this is very helpfull. Oh, I know about use the jumper wire to reproduce a shorted component I was hoping to actually use a damaged component and I do not have one right now. Thank You Kindly One and All(this is not a school related lesson, I am trying to teach myself at home - I'm an adult learner).: there are many kinds of resistors. fixed carbon resistors have a wattage rating. if you exceed the wattage (may be dangerous) the resistor will heat up excessively and burn. it stops burning when it is physically broken and cannot continue to conduct electricity (or blows the fuse). this then creates an open circuit. open circuits are commonly misnamed short circuits. a short circuit happens when the electricity in a circuit takes a shorter (or different) path than the circuit was designed. this may burn out a circuit component, then you will have an open circuit. does this make sense?

Q:1991 Honda Civic Si Hatchback. The fuse is hot with car off. It gets an immediate ground short when I turn it on. Wiring schematic says this wire goes directly to ECU. So if it were shorted against body somewhere, it would blow fuse key on of off.Tomorrow I will trace wire directly to ECU and clip it off. If it is ungrounded until I turn on key and then goes to ground when I turn on key, is that sufficient proof that my ECU has an internal short and is junk to be replaced.I hate replacing parts then finding that was not the problem.: Check main relay. It may be faulty. Below Driver's Dash.

Q:any suggestion to fix them would be appreciated.: Sounds like a fuse to me. A fuse can actually blow and not look like it. Go ahead and change it out. If you remove the fuse box cover, there will be an illustration that would show you which fuse to pull.

Q:Hi everyone, i hope you can help me out but i have a 92 grand am with a OHC quad 4 engine, 179407mi. I am trying to start it up and the engine turns good but not cracking up, Put new spark plugs and reconnect the ignition components back up, except there is a red wire tip clamp that needs to be connected back up, (WHICH IT WAS ALREADY OFF BEFORE TAKING COVER TOP OFF) i look and look and look for find where is goes and cant, also when you turn the key to the ON position i don't hear the fuel pump hums like it usually does, I ran outta gas a few times and wonder did the fuel pump shut off? or going bad? or just a relay/fuse? which i hoping that it is a relay/fuse, so please anyone can you tell where i can find the fuse/relay? and what does it looks like? and any more tips i need to know?: Sounds like the fuel pump fuse.try looking under the dash or on the side of the dash when you open the door.if it isn't there it will be under the hood.I would reccomend you go to your local autozone and purchase a $15 book on your car!! not only will it help you find those pesky relays and fuses.but it will also have a wiring diagram to show you where that disconnected wire goes.but don't fret if you can't find that because sometimes car manufacturers use wiring harnesses for different cars and option packages and that wire may not be used for your vehicle.although given it's location my guess isthat it goes somewhere.Buy a book if you are going to be doing your own work on the car.it is a invaluable investment!!!!!!!!!

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