Q:I recently took the compressor apart, lubricated all components, but the pump still wont work. I hear the relay click when i turn on the air pump uld it be the relay, or the fuse, and if its the fuse, where is it located? i know the relay is in the trunkany help would be appreciated, thank you

The terminal numbers are labeled on the bottom side of the relay. I'm assuming the relay you are hearing is in the trunk so it's most likely if that relay is clicking it's working. If the pump operates check for voltage at terminal (85) of the fuse block (ignition on) then check for ground at terminal (86) at the fuse block while the inflator switch is on . If all ok replace relay . If your missing power or ground to any of the above mention terminals locate and repair source of open/short.

Q:I have a 50cc scooter/ moped and for some reason none of the electrical components work: lights, signals, horn, fuel level dials on the dash, brake light, etc nothing electrical works.Yet for some reason the electric start still works? Why would this work and nothing else?

if you have fuses it might be that. if that isn't it, remember that all these accessories must all run from the same electrical point. trace one of those wires back toward the off/on switch until you find the problem.Have you checked the ground. some time the starter is a grounded alone. also turn one of these things on and check to see if you actually have power to it. its tough to answer this in a good way to get right to the exact problem partner.

Q:I unplugged an air freshner from my lighter. Immediatly after I noticed my lighter, dome light, power antenna, rear defrost, key in ignition chime and the lights at the bottom of the doors didn't work anymore. I switched all fuses in fuse box with new ones and the same components still didn't work. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

my first thought was fuses, but since you changed them, my second thought is the computer box. some auto store offer free computer checks. also some store sell computer checking systems. you just gotta get the right one for your car

Q:I have an 2006 Ford Fusion SE. The vehicle is experiencing a parasitic draw of about 110mA. I've found that the draw is coming from fuse 19 in the underhood fuse panel. This circuit is one of the 12V Always Hot circuits that powers components controlled by the BCM, or as Ford calls it, the Smart Junction Box. I have already determined that it is not the Smart Junction Box, as well as a few other components powered by that circuit. I've read on another post that it was a navigation system problem. The vehicle is not equipped with any such equipment. I've also verified that neither an underhood light nor the trunk light are staying on. There aren't any TSBs regarding such an issue. I've also checked 2005 2007 with no luck. Has anyone else experienced this problem? If so, what advice might you have for me as a technician?

First congratulations on doing an EXCELLENT job of troubleshooting most people would have bought two batteries, an alternator and a starter by now. The only thing you have left is to separate the components always on but I see you've done that. Try measuring the draw from those components right there next to the BCM. According to Kirkoff's law, the total has to equal the sum so give it another try. It looks like you're definitely on the right track. It could be bad insulation in the harness somewhere. I've seen stranger things happen.

Q:I was trying to connect two power supplies together so that I could have a positive and a negative voltage. I mis wired and now one of the power supplies went out and doesn't turn on anymore. What are some possible problems? I'm guessing that it's just a fuse that went out.

How did you connect it? If you want to get a positive/negative supply you should connect it like this: PS1power supply 1 PS2power supply 2 PSTtotal power supply PS1 + PST + PS1 - connected to PS2 + PST GND PS2 - PST -

Q:Contrast how a fuse and a circuit breaker work to prevent overloading in circuits.

A fuse is a one time use component, it self destructs in order to open the circuit. A circuit breaker is a reusable/resettable protection device. Once tripped and the circuit fault repaired a circuit breaker may be reset

Q:Blown Kenwood KDC-P5028 CD Reciever?I have a Kenwood KDC-MP5028 CD player. I was installing the system and everything was going fine. The wiring harness has the yellow cable missing which I think the the 12v. I attatched a wire and hooked it all up and everything was working fine. When I pushed the unit into the dash the wire cameout and it touched the black ground wire. I heard a pop and noticed that the unit was smoking a little bit. Now my unit will not power back on. The fuse is still good so thats not the problem. The radio fuse is also intact. Does anyone know what the problem is? Is there an internal fuse I dont know about? Your help wil be much appreciated. Im also trying to avoid taking it to a repair shop because I know they are going to charge me an arm and a leg. Thanks, Johnnie

If the fuses are good and it was a dead short you most likely fried the circut board. If you are mechanically and electronically inclined dis assemble the unit and go over everything with a good magnifying glass. Start at the point of the burn. (it will be obviously marked) and follow the track. If it is only the wire its self then you get off easy by replacing it. Next look inside as many units have another fuse hidden inside. If that is not it and it is one of the fine strips in the board take a very fine bit of wire and solder it in to bridge the burnt section. If any of the small components (resistors, diodes) you can replace the larger ones but not the tiny ones. Damaged ones of any type will be discolored and you can spot them with the glass.

Q:I have a 1987 ninja 750. i bought it and it turned on with an old battery but needed to be jumped to start. i bought a new battery . a duralast the one you add the acid in and charge. but now it wont turn on. a battery before that i added a new battery but i mixed up the terminals (pos on neg and neg on pos) did that mess up the electrical stuff or fuses or am i doing something wrong. hope to hear some help.

If you connected a battery backwards, you hopefully just blew some fuses. Check them all. Note that there may be a main fusible link somewhere apart from the actual fuse block. If the fuses are all good, you've blown some major electrical component(s). Time to either start troubleshooting, or haul it to a shop.

Q:I posted yesterday about my TV. Now mind you I'm not an educated electrician but I'm no amatuer either. I have repaired our microwave, dryer, dishwasher to name a few. So I took our not working TV apart yesterday and found a blown fuse. Is there only one fuse to replace by the way? We live in a small town with no stores, so I decided to take a fuse out of one of our other TV's. It said it was a 125/ 4A just like the other one. I got it put in, put the TV back together, plugged it in and POP. There was a big pop, small spark at outlet. What did I do wrong? Shouldn't the fuse have been the same? Any suggestions or idea's. My friend is taking the old fuse to the store to get a new one, should I try this again or will it make more problems? Thanks Everyone for reading.

The other posts so far are all essentially correct but if you want a little more detail as to what might be wrong ! First you need to be able to use a multi meter ! if you can well then with The meter set to measure ohms on say 20k range place meter prods across the main filter electro , looks like large can situated not far from mains input and on/off etc it will be labelled maybe 200mfd 400 vdc !! If you get a resistance reading of just a few ohms regardless which way you connect the meter leads then you can be fairly certain that the trouble lies with the bridge rectifier block with an open ballast resister as well ! prob 4.7 ohm 5watt !. Also the fault could also be the power regulator IC or transistor which ever the set uses ! The idea is to test those basic components first then if you find the faulty part then you can replace the fuse again . Do not bother replacing the fuse without testing the other parts . Oh one more thing ! the fuse should be a delay fuse !Well that covers the basics , there are still plenty of other possibilities But digest these first and do an Edit if you have further comments ! Cheers Pete EDIT. The tests that I have outlined are very basic and usually do not require a schematic to find the parts, it's like a motor mechanic does not need a workshop manual to indentify things like a carburetter or the spark plugs or the coil in any car he sees even in a make he has never seen before . Also it requires knowledge to understand a TV schematic or diagram . The solder needed is resin multi core solder and can be bought at any electronic store ! You will also need a de-soldering method , you buy solder wick which soaks up the molten solder or a desolder pump. If you still have missgivings then I think you would be better off to find someone who is more knowledgeable to do the job for you thus saving you time and money in the end ! Cheers Pete

Q:i already had a 600w rms mono amp for my bass and a 1.0 Farad Digital Car Audio Capacitor, and it was fine for a year , a few week ago i install a 200w rms American pro amp to run my door speaker and it happen every morning i had to jump my truck, i unplug that new amp for a week and everything went back to normal during that week i took truck to dealer for a 250 point inspection everything was fine ,i saw that my battery was a cheap factory battery so i got a optima battery i rewire everything 0 gauge front to back and 4 gauge on back to wire both amp and cap.after all my truck die agan , had to jump this morning

It may seem obvious to you already, but there's an issue with your American pro amp. It sounds like the amp is staying on all the time. Make sure the REM input only has +12volt power when the key is turned. The remote lead from the HU is supposed to switch the amplifier on, but if you've got a stock radio you might want to tap a fuse in your fuse box to get switched power. If it's turning off like it's supposed to, it has an internal fault making it a constant drain on your battery.