Q:I have an 85 Mustang 5.0 convertible. one day, the stereo stopped working. At the same time, the fuse for the gas door, courtesy lamp and key warning buzzer blew (one fuse). If i try to put a fuse in, it just blows. Does anyone have an idea of where the short could possibly be? or can a component on that circuit fail and cause a short?

If the an aftermarket radio was installed, the wiring may of been done using just electircal tape, as some fly-by-night people do. Over time the wires may become loose, and hit a ground. Take the radio out and look to see.

Q:How can I tell if the fuse is blown?

For sure please call Sanyo service center to help you (don't wait until the set blow the worst case it can set fire. Buzzing sound usually comes from the component that has coil in it, like flyback, transformer. But it usually comes from the flyback when its leaking. If this the safety fuse you're talking about, when it blows your set won't be able to turn on anymore.

Q:I have a 2000 Ranger I turned it off and it would not start again I have power to head and dome lights, replaced the 50 blade fuse position number 5 in the power management box and it worked for 1 to 2 sec then burnt out again. is it the starter relay, the ignition switch, the starter or something else. anyone have this problem? how did you fix it? any help would be greatly appreciated

a three or a 5 amp fuse would be positive, as long as your heater works once you slot the plug there is not any would desire to purchase a clean one. If the heater is going defective it particularly is going to easily blow the fuse, yet there is not any reason it is going to.

Q:I recently lost my internal lights, clock and annoying whine that tells me I left the lights on. I worked out where the fuse was after like, an hour of searching the internet forums and found the fuse that deals with the internal lights and clock. Low and behold, it was blown, replaced it with the spare 7.5 rated fuse, checked it, lights came on and clock, and then after about a minute, the fuse blew again. Any ideas what the prob could be? Plus, I couldnt find the fuse for the annoying whine that lets me know the lights are on. Neither could I find any fuse box layouts on the internet, anyone able to help me out?

First you need to find out if the short is in the wiring for this fuse or wiring from this fuse and another. To do this remove half the fuses prior to replacing the blown fuse. If it still blows then all the fuses are eliminated. Now remove the other half and if it still blows then the problem is within the wiring for just that one fuse. Next unplug the items connected to that fuse and then replace the fuse. If it still blows you have a wiring problem. Either seek help or run new wires. If when you unplug a component connect to the wires for this fuse and the fuse does not blow most likely that part is your problem.I an sure this well help you because i try it before and it work it won't harm your car and good luck

Q:I have a 1998 Honda civic stock altenator I want do a 1200 watt amp it says 120 amps fuses and I want do 2 highs amp 1 300 watt and 1 400 watt will I be ok to hook this up

In the short term, probably. Long term - I'd be surprised if that alt lasts 6 mo. At anything over 1/2 volume that alt will basically be maxed out. Under that much stress the amount of heat produced will be extreme. Heat in alternators causes both the electrical components and the mechanical components to wear out quickly.

Q:I did this hardware mod for my computer : (

Get same fuse as that which is blooowwwnnn and repllace it or ask some engeener for help u can also ask from the customer care of ur products company

Q:Contrast how a fuse and a circuit breaker work to prevent overloading in circuits.

A fuse is a one time use component, it self destructs in order to open the circuit. A circuit breaker is a reusable/resettable protection device. Once tripped and the circuit fault repaired a circuit breaker may be reset

Q:Hi everyone, i hope you can help me out but i have a 92 grand am with a OHC quad 4 engine, 179407mi. I am trying to start it up and the engine turns good but not cracking up, Put new spark plugs and reconnect the ignition components back up, except there is a red wire tip clamp that needs to be connected back up, (WHICH IT WAS ALREADY OFF BEFORE TAKING COVER TOP OFF) i look and look and look for find where is goes and cant, also when you turn the key to the ON position i don't hear the fuel pump hums like it usually does, I ran outta gas a few times and wonder did the fuel pump shut off? or going bad? or just a relay/fuse? which i hoping that it is a relay/fuse, so please anyone can you tell where i can find the fuse/relay? and what does it looks like? and any more tips i need to know?

Sounds like the fuel pump fuse.try looking under the dash or on the side of the dash when you open the door.if it isn't there it will be under the hood.I would reccomend you go to your local autozone and purchase a $15 book on your car!! not only will it help you find those pesky relays and fuses.but it will also have a wiring diagram to show you where that disconnected wire goes.but don't fret if you can't find that because sometimes car manufacturers use wiring harnesses for different cars and option packages and that wire may not be used for your vehicle.although given it's location my guess isthat it goes somewhere.Buy a book if you are going to be doing your own work on the car.it is a invaluable investment!!!!!!!!!

Q:i recently opend up my ps2 and took the power board off of the console and wired in an led light through the 4 prongs that go to the power board, i was super carefull with everything and i put it together, it worked and the led light was too weak for i and i took it off, put it back together and it worked fine again, so i left it sitting for all night and i noticed i kept hearing a loud ringing noise like an old tv noise, so i went over to my ps2 because i noticed the red standby light was off and i thought i left the switch off in the back, so i switched it back and fourth and nothing happend, so i was like aww crap so now im in this situation to where when i turn the back switch on it just rings loud and nothing happens, what could be the problem?

You'd need to look at a schematic and say exactly where these prongs were, where they are on the power board. It could be a lot of different things. Adding that LED light to those prongs may have cause a power spike or fluctuation on part of the board and blown a fuse or damaged a component. It may have connected circuits that were never meant to be connected, delivering too much power to something. Sure the light worked, but electricity will flow through any closed circuit, that doesn't mean it's meant to be closed. Those power boards are designed to take 120V and chop it up into different-sized tiny little bits to be passed of to the primary board and its sensitive circuits. They are complicated, and you shouldn't mess with them unless you have a schematic and know what you're doing. Even dropping a paper clip or screw on it can accidentally cause an overflow and destroy some circuits. It's why solder is made with lead, it prevents flakes of tin from shedding off and ruining the circuits. Since it is ringing, it sounds like you have mostly wiped out your power board's relays. Not much you can do about that except replace them. And I wouldn't do that for a good long while if I were you, until the capacitor cools back down again. A TV technician would be able to open it up, find the high-voltage circuits and discharge them. I'm guessing you're not a TV technician.

Q:And how are they wired?

There are two sides to the average home A/C unit. You have the evaporator side or indoor blower and the condenser side outdoor unit. On a close of the thermostat 24v from r to y (G) the indoor fan relay closes(24v GC). Allowing 110v to the indoor blower. The 24v signal also travels to the condensing unit (YC). If equipped with low and/or high pressure switches and they are closed 24v will be supplied to the cooling contactor. When the cooling contactor coil is powered 220v will pass through the contactor to the compressor and condenser fan (Condenser fan sometimes have fan cycling controls). Both compressor and condenser fans have capacitors. Indoor blower motor typically 110v supplied to indoor unit through breaker Outdoor unit typically 220v supplied through separate breaker. Indoor unit transformer takes 110v and down steps to 24v for control power. (Sometimes internally fused) Typical 24v wiring C- Common leg of 24v R- Red supply side of 24v W- Heat Y- Cooling G- Indoor Fan