Casting Machining Wheel Hub Uesd for Heavy Duty Truck
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 PCS
- Supply Capability:
- 30000 PCS/month
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Item: Hub Diamater from 15mm to 1060mm
Name:Hub
Detail:
Production Process: Water glass process of lost wax investment casting or model forging
Standard: ASTM, AISI, DIN, BS and JIS
Wheel Hub Max Casting ang Forging Size: 1 meter
Wheel Hub Casting Weight: 0.2~190Kg
Wheel Hub Dimension Tolerance: CT7
Wheel Hub Surface Roughness: Ra6.4~12.5
Wheel Hub Productivity: 7500 tons per year
A world class manufacturer & supplier of lost wax investment castings forging in carbon steel and alloy steel, is one of the large-scale professional investment casting production bases in China, consisting of both casting foundry forging and machining factory. Annually more than 15000 tons Precision casting and forging parts are exported to markets in Europe,America and Japan. OEM casting and forging service available according to customers requirements..
- Q:also found no fluid in the abs motor
- If the ABS system is faulty the light will come on the fault could be any number of things.“Brake Pressure Sensor” or “Brake Pressure Sender faults are common and on older cars and often require the ABS pump module to be replaced. Another issue can be wear and tear related damage wiring from the sensors or debris build-up around the sensors
- Q:I was looking over the BMW of North America website and Building a 2011 3 series 335i (Which I will be getting when i enter college next year :D), and something attracted my attentionThe 328i version (the crappy version) can come with the BMW Performance Front Axle Brake System, which look very sexy on a carWhen I looked over at the 335i, i couldn‘t find that option in the Performance Category. Im confusedThe 200+ horsepower version has more Performance options than the 300+ Horsepower version.Is it just a website thing or what, somebody explain pleaseThanks,Customer
- crappy version? May not be as exciting as a 335 but to call it a crappy version is downright shortsighted. The 328 and 335 share everything but the motor, exhaust and some trim. The cars are identical otherwise.
- Q:I have to design a 15kW domestic wind turbine and was wondering would a mechanical (calliper) braking system suffice for such forces involved or would I need to include a hydraulic braking system?
- Where is the wind mill going to be located? What is the difference between the two systems? Does wind mill technology encourage one method over another?
- Q:I was driving home and was about to make a right turn but when I tried to press on the brakes to slow down, it didn‘t work! I kept going fast. I almost crashed too, but luckily I was able to avoid the cars and swerve to the right. I had to pull the emergency brake to make my car stop. Then when I tried again, the brakes felt weird and it felt like I was pressing on the accelerator instead. I called my dad to come get me and when he tried the car like an hour later, the brakes were fine? Why did that happen? I‘m gonna go get the car checked tomorrow. I drive an automatic 2001 Honda Civic.
- It was most likely just a random drop in break fluid pressure. The same thing happened to me not to long ago, however, instead of swerving and pulling your emergency brake, try pumping your pedal a few more times first, it most of the time will restore your brakes. If your the kind of person who panics (based on your ability to stop your car with no collisions, I am assuming that panic doesn't rule you) than this may be difficult, but next time that it happens just try this and just stay chillaxed.
- Q:1999 Saab 9-5 (4 cyl). The car feels heavy to drive and would slow down to a complete stop when I just release the gas. I mean it comes to a complete stop without even stepping on the brake pad. Also I have noticed my wheels are covered with brake pad dust and the car smells like burnt brake pads when I drive it. Oh, by the way, this car has anti-lock brakes system (ABS), with four disc brakes including two ventilated discs.So I took to a mechanic he checked all the tires, and for some reason all tires stay locked all the time. He couldn’t figure what it was. He advised me to go to a dealer. Before doing that I need to at least have an idea of what the problem is, and an estimation of much it may cost me to fix it. Your help will be highly appreciated.Thanks!
- sounds like calipers are seized, replace em!
- Q:My brake petal went straight to the floor. why?
- Take it too a different mechanic if you get the same answer - replace the struts.
- Q:When I hit the brakes, do I need to shift to a lower gear and when should I shift?
- yes most all come with sway bars, there is no real point in aftermarket ones unless you drive it hard or race it or it goes out. but if you're just driving miss daisy to the mall then id keep my money
- Q:I have a 1990 Caddilac fleetwood FWD. The break lines that give fluid to the rear breaks busted. I wanted to know if the front breaks will still operate. I know its not safe and all but i need to know if i can drive it to a shop
- As others have said, your front and rear brakes are seperate in the sense that if you had a line break on the rear, the front brakes would still operate to stop the vehicle. The problem is that the break in the brake line will cause fluid loss and many vehicles have only one fluid reservoir for the entire brake system (on your car I do not know which you have), so a few uses of the brakes and you will drain the reservoir and your front brakes will diminish. I cracked the rear line on my truck about 35 miles from town, so I just drove it home. I went slower on the highway, left myself tons of room to stop, downshifted to slow down as much as possible, took back roads when in town and relied on the parking brake to stop (remember that the rear brakes can become very hot very quick, so coast and downshift to slowdown and use the brakes as little as possible). Only use the actual brake pedal for an emergency (luckily I had no problem). Remember parking brakes only operate the rear brakes, so they aren't going to stop you very well, and yes they will work because they are mechanically operated not hydraulically. I'm going to get a 'thumbs down' for it, but yes you can drive it to a shop, doing the things that I said I did during my experience. Is it safe; no. Can you do it; yes. I did. I suggest driving the car early in the morning before many people are on the road, and throw your keys in a drop box (if the shop isn't open). This way you reduce your chances of something happening because there are less people to screw it up for you. As arglatina23 said, you could pinch the line/hose before the leak to reduce the amount of fluid loss and somewhat increase stoping power (depends on pinch point location). Do the pinch only on the line that is busted (so if it is just one rear tire pinch the line after where the line splits for each tire, if it is on the main running to the rear, you will just have to pinch and neither rear brake will work).
- Q:suggest me to replace the brake master cylinder/brake booster with a bigger one.is it work if i do that?Please help.
- i never been on a bike 2month ago, now i have passed my test on a 500cc bike and i can ride any road bike in the world, are you in the uk , if you take your test on a 125 you are restricted for 2 year then you can ride anything you want , if you do this after october this dont apply as new rules are coming in where youhave a test for every size bike u go on this is why i took mine now
- Q:I just bought an 05 Durango at a Gov. auction. When driving i noticed some resistance from the brakes themselves, not the pedal. The brakes actually seem to work fine, but there is very noticeable resistance, especically at lower speeds, and i dont roll forward when i idle, not to mention squeaking at all speeds. I took it to a dealer they jacked it up, put it in neutral, and one wheel would not spin at all by hand, and the other three were stiff. So i assume thats where i am getting my resistance, but the weird thing is my calipers are not locked up, my brakes arent sticking, i cant figure out where this resistance is coming from. They said it was rusty under there and they wanted to replace the whole brake system, but i really feel its something else.
- There are float pins. They allow the front and back pads to center themselves when squeezing the rotor while braking. If they are gummed up, or out of grease they can not float and keep that tension on the wheel. Another issue is where a soft spot occurred in the brake pad material and wore out sooner on one side. Then the pad begins to line up crooked and can get wedged in that way. Rust and dirt can get in around the caliper's pistons and wedge it out. They only release tension, not have a mechanism to pull away, so small resistances can hold the brakes on. Since, again, there is not a mechanized method of releasing tension on the brakes, if the union of the brake line to the caliper (or any joint) gets rusted (on the inside too) it can cause a resistance that the brake pedal can overcome, but the release force cannot. This would be the most expensive way to fix the brakes, and the most automatic by mechanics, since all the above issues would also be corrected in the process. The float pin and caliper piston issue could be saved by just taking it all off and cleaning them out and/or lubricating the parts that need it. Taking the wheel off and removing 4 bolts (two float pins and two bracket bolts disassembles the entire brake system to get to the components. Easy beginner task that might save you big $$.
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Casting Machining Wheel Hub Uesd for Heavy Duty Truck
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 PCS
- Supply Capability:
- 30000 PCS/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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