Q:I have an 05‘ Dodge Neon that I have put 18 low profile tires and wheels on. Just about every year I have to replace the front Rotors and Brake pads due to warping of the Rotors. I‘m sure this has something to do with lots of short trips and a lot of stopping and going. Also these wheels way considerably more than the stock wheels. Would it be beneficial to upgrade my brake system to a performance brake system, or can you just upgrade the rotors and pads and be fine?

It's hard to believe 18 aluminum wheels weigh more that the 14 stock steel wheels. Having said that, are you sure the wheel lug nuts aren't being overtightened? This will cause them to warp, just as hitting then in a car wash with the water wand if they are hot. It's only a matter of using a performance disc and pad set, but if I were you, I would try to find out what is really causing the warping.

Q:i have a specialized hardrock sport, and i have V-Brakes. i want to put GYRO brakes on it, the ones that do bar spins, is it possible?cheers.

The first answer was totally right and on the ball. I have tried it and its a bad thing to do on a mountaibike. V-brakes are delicate,normal cantilevers or 990 styles are not. The Gyro/Oryg was never intended for newer technolagy. Why not try it old school and have a very long front brake cable so you can twist it once,perhaps twice, and not have a big problem?. Braided cables are better for this setup,and as well you should flood the cable housing with heavy oil to keep a maximum of lubrication. Also only use older wound brake cable housing,the newer stuff is too stiff and brittle. Just one persons opinion.I hope it can help in some way.

Q:the brakes work good, however i have to continually add brake fluid. i could not find a leak anywhere, and pressure is good. i have been told it could be one of the following: brake proportioning valve antilock valve brake boosterhow do i test each of these and where is the antilock valve located? is there anything else it could be and how would i check it? i know i should have a pro do it but i am in college and can not afford that luxury.

to tell you the truth, unless you have just done the brakes or the brake light remains on when the parking brake is released, you should not add to the master cylinder. there is a sensor that is calibrated to turn on when the fluid level gets too low, and the fluid level will drop for one of two reasons. 1) normal wear on the pads and shoes requiring more fluid to push them to ward the drum or disk, or there is a leak. this leak you speak of that you can not find, a fun place to look requiring a little know how and work is at the back of the master cylinder. if you are both lucky and unlucky at the same time, you may see a trail down the vacuum brake booster behind the master cylinder. you may have to pull the master cylinder away from the booster to locate this leak though. my wife's car has this very problem right now. but i keep an eye on the fluid level and proceed with caution. as for an anti lock valve, does not exist, it is an entire assembly, but i am not familiar with where to find it on your vehicle of the top of my head.

Q:What happen if I pour automatic transmission fluid in brakes system?

Once an oil based fluid enters your brake system, there is almost no way to remove it from the rubber pieces in the moving components of your brake system. It actually soaks into the rubber and causes them to swell. The rubber is specifically made for brake fluid which has quite different properties than oil or transmission fluid. Years ago using trans fluid in a pinch was touted as an acceptable idea but in any modern vehicle it is a very expensive and dangerous action. Even if you do not have immediate multiple parts fail, in time you will have premature failure of all rubber parts that made contact with the trans fluid. The longer the fluid stays in, the more damage possible. I've been a tech for 15 years and have seen this about a half a dozen times. All had multiple problems after the contamination. I wouldn't recommend driving a vehicle in this condition. Hope this helps!

Q:my brake fluid was contaninated and now all the rubber parts in my brake system must be replaced, can anyone give me a list of these parts?

What is the brake fluid contaminated with? Was something other than brake fluid added to the master cylinder? I guess you took your car to the shop because of brake issues?

Q:i just had my 95 suburban checked out thoroughly. its a good runner with not much major work needed.i didnt pay much for it , and just bought it, so i expect to put a little money into it.my brakes are the only thing i need done. here is what i need: 3 brake hoses, 1 drum, 4 tire rods and sleeves, 4 balljoints, 1 idler arm, and 1 pitmen arm.the brakes arent giving me trouble and i thought it was just the pads need changing. now when i stop sometimes, they squeak, just a little. also the wheel in the rear locks up real quick when i hit the brakes. i have no other problems.i am getting all this done, but not at once. i have to do whats more important first. what should i get changed first?

If you're having brake lock-up on hard application, then I suggest a complete inspection of the front and rear wheel brakes. It sounds as though you may be needing front and rear brake relining done. All the components you listed are important, but with the exception of the brake hoses and drum, the rest are related to the steering components. Get a second opinion.

Q:So quite often in cold weather, I drive my standard jetta car, and when I go to brake during early driving, they barely work, it feels like they‘re literally braking. If I could describe it so you can picture it, imagine driving a floor less car, and when you push the break pole it‘s grinding against the ground!It‘s like KRRRRR KERRRR KRUKKKKWhat‘s the deal?

if the car isnt making any progress in stopping when you apply the brakes, then that could be a big problem. but the sound you decribed sounds like the ABS system activating. You'll hear that sound alot more when trying to apply brakes on ice.

Q:I just had my rear brakes replaced on my 04 Corolla. It has 92,000 miles on it. Is that a long time for rear brakes to last? Why do some go so much sooner? Is it the car or the way someone drives?

This Site Might Help You. RE: What is the difference between ceramic brake pads and regular brake pads? I've been doing a little research about brake pads since I have to have mines changed and found that I could purchase them myself at possibly discounted prices. I called a few mechanics and it seems that even if I brought my own pads in, it would still cost almost the same to have them.

Q:Hello,I have a 2009 Camry auto 4 cycl. not hybrid. My brake cables were vandalized and cut. I‘m installing new brake cables that connect to the abs system. How do I bleed the brake cables????

It is NOT possible to bleed brake cables, or cables of any kind. Sounds to me like you have no idea what you're talking about. Brakes are critical. Be sure to have someone inspect your work.

Q:My 01 solara‘s brake feels weird. I think I need to bleed the brakes. But before I do so, I want to see if I‘m right. The brake initially requires pretty much no effort to press down and for that initial amount there‘s no brake at all, or so I don‘t feel anything. So I think there‘s air in the brake lines. Am I right? or there‘s something else that needs to be done?

NOBODY! Realize that ALL brake fluids break down, turn to GOO and SLUDGE and TOXIC waste over time. THEN it finally turns into LIQUID SANDPAPER! ALL car makers agree that the BRAKE FLUID whshould be changed at4e LEAST every 2-3 years. When it turns DARK BROWN it is at the end of it's service life!. IT WILL require a full PRESSURE BLEED flush and fill. to remove the built up GOO and SLUDGE trapped within the system. Once done you can rest ASSURED that your brakes will outlast most others that do NOT perform this simple service.The DEALERSHIP will use EXACTLY the right fluid and usually charge about $100 for it. This is WORTH the money in saving the brake system and the ABS pump and more with time. the BAD feeling in your brake pedal is the FIRST indicator that you need this fluid CHANGED FLUSHED and FILLED! Good luck!!