• Car Parts Brake Pads/Brake Linling for NISSAN System 1
  • Car Parts Brake Pads/Brake Linling for NISSAN System 2
Car Parts Brake Pads/Brake Linling for NISSAN

Car Parts Brake Pads/Brake Linling for NISSAN

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
20000 pc
Supply Capability:
2000000 pc/month

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Quick Details

Packaging : 

Packaging Details:Usually packed by Neutro packing inside,white/colored carton outside
Delivery Detail:within 30 days after deposit

Specifications

Japanese car brake pads
1.Good performance of brake pads with long life time
2.No black dust residue
3.Less brake disc wear

                                                      car brake pads


1.Material:

 

Semi-metallic, low-metallic and ceramic, Non-asbestos.

 

2.Certificate:

 

ISO9001 and TS16949 approved.

 

3.Advantage:

 

-Significantly reduced dust development

-Practically noise-free

-Better rim appearance

-Greater comfort

-No brake judder

-Better environmental protection

-Lower repair costs

-Very safe

4.The price will be sent to you soon after get your OEM or Drawings.

We are trying to do our work better to improve our products so that we can make all of our customers' satisfied. All inquires will be greatly appreciated.

 

Product Name:  car brake pads
MATERIAL:Semi-metallic, low-metallic and ceramic, Non-asbestos
Life Timeabove 40000kms
StandardGB5763/2008
PRODUCT FEATURES:1) High friction coefficient, Low noise,Wear resistant;
2) Good thermal recession and recovery;
3) Good performance of water proof;
4) Friction coefficient:0.25-0.4/0.30-0.40/0.40-0.50/0.50-0.60
5) long life time
Packing

 

1.Inner box Neutral box white good quality the size accords to product size.

2.Can be according to client requirement and use client brand.

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Q1: Why buy Materials & Equipment from OKorder.com?

A1: All products offered by OKorder.com are carefully selected from China's most reliable manufacturing enterprises. OKorder.com adheres to the highest standards and a commitment to supply chain safety and customer satisfaction.

Q2: How do we guarantee the quality of our products?

A2: We have established an advanced quality management system which conducts strict quality tests at every step, from raw materials to the final product. At the same time, we provide extensive follow-up service assurances as required.

picture of brake pad:

 

 

Car Parts Brake Pads/Brake Linling for NISSAN

 

 

 

Q:I‘m taking the dmv test in FL and i need help!!!!!!! please34 What does ABS stand for?Anti-Lock Backing SystemAuto Brake SystemAnti-lock Braking SystemAutomatic Braking System35 You are not allowed to park within _____ feet of an fire hydrant.1051520
Experience indicates they are probably safe. In the 1970s, our now nearly defunct, EPA identified the EMF from the heating elements in electric blankets, and heating pads, as carcinogenic. Most power companies send warnings about EMF exposure. Some people that work around electromagnetic fields in their work, claim a higher incidence of cataracts, and leukemia. I loved my electric blankets I've avoided the things for years. Too many anecdotes to ignore.
Q:My 2010 corolla makes a knocking sound when I press a brake. Doesn‘t happen often, seems to only happen on wet/snowy road. Sounds like a metal bangs against metal in front of the car and my brake pedal starts to tremble. And the car does not slow down when it happens. What can it be? Any help much appreciated!
That's the ABS brakes working.
Q:I am a newbie when it comes to knowing anything about cars. When regular breaks are applied, is it being applied to all wheels, front, or back?Same question for the emergency brake (the one you pull).How do these braking systems work?
hard situation. lookup with a search engine. this could actually help!
Q:my car sounds like an old bus when I brake at red lights. Also, if I drive around town a lot (as opposed to highways) using my brakes, there is a buring smell coming out of my hood. Any answer? thank you
Semi-metallic brakes are made of bits of metal shavings in place of the asbestos material that has been banned by the U.S. government. These semi-metallic brakes have great stopping power and have a long wear life, but can cause a high-pitched squeal that drives car owners crazy and frustrates mechanics who can't get it to go away to please their customers. Sometimes brake squeals are an indication that maintenance is required. Some common conditions that cause brake noise are: 1. Heat cracked or worn un-true rotors 2. Rough finish on resurfaced rotors 3. Loose fitting brake pads in the caliper 4. Lack of silicone compound on back of brake pad 5. Missing springs or anti-rattle clips that should be on the caliper or pad 6. Improper tightening sequence of lug nuts or caliper hardware If you hear disc brake noises other than a squeal, it could mean your brake pads are worn out and need to be replaced. If your brake pedal feels different than normal or if you've noticed any change in the way your vehicle brakes (pulls to one side when braking or requires more pressure on the brake pedal), have the brake system inspected at once. What can you do as a customer to reduce the chance of squealing brakes? First of all, noisy brakes should always be inspected to make sure there isn't a problem with the braking system. If the pads have worn down to the point where metal-to-metal contact is occurring, your vehicle may not be able to stop safely, and you may damage the brake rotors or drums to the point where they have to be replaced. Sometimes a few harder-than-normal stops can de-glaze the brake pads and help reduce the squealing noise for a while.
Q:The front disc brake on my mountain bike has started trumpeting like an elephant (back does it a little bit, too). There‘s plenty of brake pad left, and it looks like the calipers are adjusted correctly.I even tried scuffing the glaze off the pads with a piece of sand paper, and they still honk like crazy. Is it just time to get new pads? They‘re about 2 years old.
Most of the time this is due to improper caliper adjustment or a bent/warped rotor. Cleaning is a good first step, but often that'll make them squeak worse if the problem isn't grime. Take your rotors off the wheel and scrub them down with some Ajax powder and a stiff nylon brush. Do it for the pads, too, but be careful to keep them flatyou can alter the pad profile if you aren't careful (they're sorta soft). If you're sure the calipers are mounted properly, then spin the wheel and watch carefully one side of the rotor where it comes close to the padyou should see a continuous gap of light. If the rotor is wavy when it spins, then your squealing is most likely from harmonic vibration. You can try to tweak the rotor true using a crescent wrench (very carefully), or have a shop straighten it for you. You could get a new rotor as well, but most can be straightened just fine. If the rotor is true, then double check the caliper mounting. Sometimes shimming the caliper helps to put the inner (non-piston) pad closer to the rotor where there will be less bending as the pads contact it. Another possibility is if the rotor has glazed a little. After cleaning it, take your bike to a huge steep hill (or a parking garage) and go fast. Lay on the brakes hard and come to a full stop 5 to 10 times for each caliper. A helper who can shuttle you to the top with a car makes this a lot easier. This helps alot sometimes, especially if you never burned in the rotors this way in the first place. Doing this, you create a lot of heat and bits of the pad material will actually embed themselves in the micropores of the rotor metal, making a better (and more grabby) braking surface. One other little duh-factor is making sure that the wheel is sitting squarely in the dropouts and that the axle isn't bent. Seen that happen more than once on front wheels. :o)
Q:everything done but afterwards I have to pump twice to stop the vehicle it won't stop on the first step, the brake pedal all the way down to the floor, on the second step the brakes are so good but not on the first step, what could ive done wrong.I changed my pads because of the same problem and after replacing everything still the same, is my booster and master cylinder have problem? i checked all the fluid lines and they all ok.
Don't use copper, use pvc for the cold supply and cpvc for the hot. Insulate them both inside the house, and bury as much as possible outside. No help on a metering valve that would be cost effective for your purposes, sorry
Q:I‘m thinking about getting a fox fork for the front of my bike. but my bike is old but it works great. The new Fox Shox 32 F series are all disk brake. I just need to know about how much it will cost to get a disk brake installed in the front rim?
When I swapped out my v-brakes for discs, I went with the Avid BB-7 mechanical brakes. Brake and rotor, and you can find them under $50. Could work with your existing cable and housing, but I'd highly recommend swapping them out too.
Q:My friend sent over a 1968 chevy chevelle with allaround drum brakes And bought a aftermarker brake system .I put on a new power booster master cylinder all new brake hoses and steel brakelines steering nuckles ,backen plates ,rotors and calipers .He is a friend so I charge him $20.00 a hourIt only took me 10 hours but thats clean up too.What would he of gotten charged
Hi Dr. F, Howard L. gots it right, an independent mechanic doesnt have the overhead of a shop. And depending where you live 20 dollars an hour sounds fair considering its a friend. You must be pretty good at turning a wrench if you did all this work in 10 hours considering its a 40 plus year old car with probably some old rusty fasteners and you were modifying the drum to calipers and rotors. You probably save your friend from 600-800. dollars over most good shops. cheers.
Q:what are the advantages of the anti locking braking system
If : I never seem to use the front brakes though - Learn to ride son. That front brake is about 60-70% of your stopping power. If you're not using it you're a danger to yourself and others. If you can't find a motorcycle safety class, at least find an empty parking lot and practice some balanced braking and panic stops. Start real slow. 15 MPH or less and get the feel of it. The weight transfer from using the front brake WILL lighten that rear wheel, and make it easier to brake traction on the rear until you get the feel of it. Keep the bike dead straight, [look ahead, not down], and a little skid of the rear won't throw you.
Q:I just had the brake pads on my car replaced yet they still squeak, however, not nearly as loud now. My father said that the brake system was fine and that the new brakes just needed some time to be broken in. It has been something like 3000 miles and they still aren't broken in lol. Although lubricant and brakes don't seem to go well together, is there something I can use on my brakes to quiet them down.
the problem is a combination of incorrect installation and cheap pads. The proper way is to take the rotor and refinish or replace it and when you do that clean all the rust off all metal parts in the brake system as the rust amplifies vibration and squealing. also lubricate the caliper slides and use brake quiet compound on the back of the pads. that other problem is semi metallic pads have a high rate of semi metallic brake pad squealing. i always use ceramic pads as they are not only better for stopping distance but the have almost no brake dust and no noise. and the guy below me is wrong. you HAVE to lube the caliper slide pins.

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