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I have a cabin that is way out in the middle of no where, it would cost 000's of dollars to get power to it. If I have a 8,000 BTU air conditioner that runs on 25 volts and 5 amps (or 875 watts)How many solar panels will I need to run this during the day, plus charge the batteries to run it all night? How many batteries would I need
Unless you have a good charge controller, the battery will never charge, as a lead acid battery requires 5 volts to charge. Ans you don't tell us the capacity of the battery? Is the solar cell only 5 watts? That is amp if it develops 5 volts. Assuming the solar panel is good for 5 watts and 5 volts, that is only amp. so you are charging the battery with amp and discharging it with 5 amps, so how long you can do that depends on the size of the battery. But it will discharge in at most 5 hours with a large battery, and the solar panel will take several days to charge it up again at amp. The best you will be able to do with that 5 amp load is perhaps hour a day, which is 2 watt-hours. The solar panel will be able put back amp for 2 hours at 5 volts, which is 5 watt-hours, which will give you perhaps 2 watt-hours in the battery. .
I am thinking of buying a 3w solar panel called the nomad 3 from goal zero. I want to charge 35Wh lithum batteries. I have heard that lithium batteries are temperatmental and without a regulated current things could get ugly.I have a couple of chargers that came with the batteries. One is a 2v car charger and another is 0-240v wall charger.Goal zero sell something called a sherpa 50, which contains rechargeable batteries and an inverster and I think they suggest that I charge my batteries indirectly through the Sherpa 50, however, the sherpa 50 is expensive at $200, and seems to have a small capacity, in addition to being extra weight that i don`t want to carry.Electronics geniuses, you are my only hope.
Lithium batteries do have special charging requirements. I would recommend that you use the 2 volt charger that came with them to keep them happy. Automotive power systems can have voltages as high as 4.5 volts when the engine is running so there's no need to limit the output of the panel to anything less than that. Check with the charger manufacturer to see what it will withstand. Some will work with systems up to 24 volts nominal (up to 29 volts actual) found in larger commercial vehicles such as trucks and busses. If your charger will work with both 2 and 24 volt systems you might not need anything extra to use the unregulated output of the panel. Otherwise I'd recommend a shunt regulator to clamp the output of the panel to no more than 4.5 volts. That way it would dissipate (waste) very little of the panel's power, and even that would only be during those rare times when the panel is producing maximum output. Such a device could be as simple as a high power zener diode, a low power zener coupled with a power transistor, or a precision shunt regulator such as a TL43 coupled with a power transistor. A more complex way would be a to use buck/boost regulator between the panel and your charger. You might gain a slight advantage under low light conditions when the panel isn't putting out much but the overall efficiency could end up worse than the simpler shunt regulator. Under optimum conditions, I would expect it to take a full day for a 3 watt (peak) panel to charge just one of your 35 Wh batteries. Charging an intermediate device such as the Sherpa 50 through its built in charger and then using it to charge your battery through yet another charger would severely cut your overall efficiency. Depending on how long you'll be gone, it might be far more practical, reliable, and economical to just carry (or find a way to be resupplied with) a few additional fully charged 35 Wh batteries. Don
i need to cut down on electricity bills, and so i was wondering if someone could give me step-by-step instructions, or websites that have step-by-step instructions on how to build an electricity generating solar panel.
The idea behind building your own was to get defective and broken solar cells from the manufacturer, preferably for free though many now charge for them. These are cells that are either cosmetically blemished, cracked or otherwise broken during manufacturing and transportation. As each cell fragment could have very different voltage and current characteristics, you have to manually measure the voltage and current characteristics, sort them and then wire them in parallel or in serial to achieve the desired voltage and current characteristics for the panel. Wiring in parallel increases the current while wiring in series increases the voltage, the current capacity of cells in series will be that of the lowest current capacity cell in that series hence you need to match fragments up to wire in parallel till you have enough current capacity to participate as a cell in the series. Cell fragments can only be wired in parallel if they have the same voltage output. It's painstaking work and it's difficult to place all the irregular shaped cells onto the solar panel in a layout that efficiently uses the space so your solar panels will likely be much larger than commercial ones. You could augment them with Fresnel lenses since the cells don't occupy as much of the available surface area hence focusing the light onto the cells rather than the board will help with efficiency. Practice your soldering skills cause you don't want to have to go back in to figure out where that cold solder joint is. If you're real lucky you can get a supply of blemished cells but the cheapest ones are the broken cells.
I am doing a big project for school, and I have decided to do it on solar panels. I am new to the subject but have done some research on it; I would like to buy a single panel, a charge controller, an inverter and a battery, to charge a simple lamp. My question is if the items in the links will work together and if the panel will produce electricity?
DIY okorder
I have a 500 watt inverter and battery but need solar panels to run my need. I want to have enough juice to run a computer and monitor and sometimes a 5w amp. I am not sure how much power is needed to run the computer (standard desktop with 5flat screen with an additional surround sound system) though on the side of the computer it says 5 amp but I know I used to run it and monitor and surround sound with a heating blanket on the same circuit which was rated at 20 amps. My question is that I would like to go and buy some panels (cheaply as I'm unemployed) from somewhere like Harbor Freight that would meet the need of the converter to supply enough amperage. So what size panel(s) or panels would I need to run this setup? If I am correct I think 500 watts is equal to 5 amps. Would this even work? Could I run a partial system where I could run some of the stuff to take a load off? I need to lower my electric bill somehow. Thanks!
Solar okorder in their survival discussion in the archive, this exact project was discussed at length.
Yes, solar panels can be installed on wineries or vineyards. In fact, they are increasingly being utilized in the wine industry as a sustainable energy solution. Solar panels can be mounted on rooftops, canopies, or even on the ground in open spaces, providing clean and renewable energy to power the winery operations.
I'm just geting into electonics and stuff. So I am trying to make a simple USB charger. I'm looking for at least 4 volts output. What I've got is two solar panels (detached) a 4 AA battery holder, and a circuit board with an led on it (took the solar panels out of old lawn lights. I need more charge out of my panels (I think) so I tried attaching them. I soldered the positive wire from one to the positive connection on the other and negative wire to negative connection. After doing so and checking the multimeter, it says I have no output at all. How do you connect them?
You will need to wire several cells in series to obtain the necessary voltage, and you may need to wire several sets in parallel to obtain the required current. Series: Connect the + lead of one cell to the - lead of the next. You may chain any number of these together this way, and the output voltage will be the sum of the output voltages of each cell. The output current will be the greatest current of each individual cell. Parallel: Connect the + leads of each cell together, and the minus leads of each cell together. The output current will be the sum of the output currents of each cell. The Output voltage will be the greatest voltage of each individual cell. Picture this: think of the series cells as a column, connected from top to bottom. Think of the parallel cells as a row, with all the tops connected together and all the bottoms connected together. To arrive at the required voltage *and* current, you will need an array of cells, in rows and columns. The voltage will be the sum of each column, while the current will be the sum of each row. Most solar panels are arrays of individual cells. The arrays are then connected in the same fashion to provide the necessary combination of voltage and current.
My project needs to build a thermal solar panel that would be used as a demonstrational rig. The dimensions i am allowed do not allow me to use a normal thermal solar panel so i have decided to use the heat exchanger from the back of a fridge. Although this is possible to use what equation would i use to prove the power of the sun would actually heat up the water. More importantly when the rig is demonstrated to students, they will need to be able to determine if the raise in temperature given by the thermometers is what should be given. Variables of the rig will include: Angle of the panel, Light intensity, Direction of panel, and more importantly the flow rate of the water travelling through the pipes. What equation includes those variables (change in temperature, flow rate) and would allow me to incorporate the angle of the panel. The light source would be a lamp so i would also need to know how much of the energy from the lamp is actually being used by the panel?
Forget the long winded discussion above. There are so many variables that you cannot calculate the outcome. This does not mean that the experiment is a failure. It gives you information on the fact that water can be heated in this manner, and that you can vary the result by modifying the variables.