• XPZW Intelligent LV integrated power distribution box System 1
XPZW Intelligent LV integrated power distribution box

XPZW Intelligent LV integrated power distribution box

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XPZW Intelligent LV integrated power distribution box


1. Application and Characteristics
LV Intelligent Distribution Box of XPZW type is an integrateddistribution box with distribution and reactive power compensation, which canbe installed with transformers on the same pole or mounted on lines poles andwalls, etc. By selecting the appropriate capacity, the low voltage intelligentpower distribution box may keep power factor at load feed point at an optimallevel.
 

Lowvoltage intelligent distribution box of XPZW type uses distribution intelligentmonitor terminal as the control core, this intelligent monitor terminal ispowered by full digitalization design, communication sampling, man-machine interface128 * 64 dots large-screen LCD display, all-metal enclosure design, to effectivelyimprove the electromagnetic compatibility indicators, the installation with embedded/ wall-mounted series installation method meets the DIN standard, themotherboard uses AMT surface mount technology equipment which consists of distributionmonitor,  reactive power compensation,harmonic analysis, event logging, energy metering, I/0 interface, temperaturesensor interface. The device provides RS232/485 serial port 1 and RS-485 serialport 2, serial port 2 is a data forwarding port which mainly supports formulti-function electronic watt-hour meter data forwarding. Serial port 1communication method supports twisted pair, coaxial cable, data radio, GPRS, andalso can use light to communicate with the MODEM and fiber.


2Parameters

   PowerSupply85V265Vtype
   Weight1.5Kg
   Measuringsignal05A
   MeasuringmodeAC sampling
   Measuring voltage59V280V
   Measuring current05V
   Measuring power factorlag0.200~ lead 0.200
   Measuring harmonicFrequencyspectrum display
   Measurement of active power0999.9Kw
   Measurement of reactive power0999.9Kavr
   Measuring electric degree of active power09999999.9Kw/H
   Measuring electric degree of reactive power 09999999.9Kavr/H


3. Functional description

Thedevice can record once at 15 minutes intervals, and save 90 days historicaldata. Recording density of 15-minute, 30 minutes, 45 minutes, 60 minutes areoptional.


4. Switching control guideline
Controller takes "#" control criteria, the top and bottom limitationsof voltage on each phase and reactive power can be set by users.
1) Voltage between UL and UH, the controller is in auto-switching state. (UL setsundervoltage threshold for users,  UH setsovervoltage threshold for users).
2) It is locked while voltage is below UL, which can not be switched without reactivepower; and it can be released when the voltage is greater than UL, and back to auto-switchingstate.
3) Closed and locked when the voltage is higher than UH, without reactive powerno switching; be released when the voltage is fall back to (UH-6) and return toautomatic switching state
4) Under auto-switching state, the controller measures load reactive power, ifthe value is greater than set value, then the capacitor starts; if the capacitivereactive power is greater than the value for switch off, then the capacitor is off.


Q:I have a sprinter van. Need to be able to power 4300 watts worth of electrical equipment. Like power conversion alternator etc What would i need to do. the equipment. cost etc.
Are you trying to power 120 Volt or 12 Volt electrical equipment? Either way you're looking at nearly 400 amps of additional load on the vehicle and that's a waaaay lot. If your equipment is 120 volt it would be much easier and cheaper to install a generator. Some generators even have regulated outputs that are very precise and surge-protected for sensitive equipment. If your equipment is 12 volt (such as a rack of amplifiers) then you're looking at adding a couple (or more) alternators and may need custom bracketry and fanbelts to drive them. I was at a car stereo competition years ago and there were vehicles with up to 6 alternators. The problem you will find is alternators are rated at their maximum output, not what they put out at idle. Even a 230 amp alternator may put out less than 100 amps at idle. Look for alternators built specifically for use while idling if this is your situation - either industrial vehicles or special alternators designed for stereo competition with high output at low rpms. If I was you I would research what types of industrial uses the Sprinter has been modified for and some of them may have already solved the very problem you're having.
Q:I have a 2000 Monte Carlo SS that is stock, as in no aftermarket radio/electrical equipment and the fuse for the a/c and cruise. I noticed it popped when I bought the car and each time i put the same size fuse in or a bigger one, it automatically pops. I pulled the dash apart and all of the connections are good so I'm not sure of where to go.
The fuse is a safety mechanism it will burn or pop as you say before damage can occur to the electronic component if it continually pops/ burns out that usually means there is a short in the wiring or on the part itself. Electrical problems can be a real pain in the a$$, even if you are experienced. So if you are not mechanically inclined I suggest not to try to track this problem down by yourself.
Q:CFL LED luminaires
E-Bay -Business Industrial-Electrical Test Equipment
Q:I don't know a lot about electricity, but I know that on earth we ground our outlets, computers, etc. Do they have a means of grounding electricity in space? Are electrical systems more dangerous on spacecraft?
We do not ground all electrical equipment. Much of it is double insulated. Grounding simply connects the chassis to Earth, so that if there is an electrical fault that makes the chassis live this is short to Earth and a person, who we might expect to be standing on Earth and not hovering, will hence be at the same potential as the chassis. The actual circuit is not grounded - its return path conencts to neutral. Precisely the same principle can be used in space, but in light of the fact that people in space may actually be floating, double insulation is safer.
Q:I need some opinions on why do we recycle, computers, tv, cellphones, etc.I know it saves the environment because if we throw it away, it would just end up in landfills but is there anymore reasons?
Electronic waste has increased substantially over the last couple of decades. As technology grows at a quicker pace than ever before, more and more electronics are ending up in our landfills. Toxins from these electronics can run into waters systems poisoning the water we drink. Recycling of electronic equipment will not only reduce waste in our landfills, but also minimize use of natural resources and reuse of already existent materials. TO protects your surroundings. Safe recycling of outdated electronics promotes sound management of toxic chemicals such as lead and mercury and to saves landfill space recycling is necessary . By recycling these items, landfill space is conserved.
Q:I have a garage full of my dad's old equipment from oscilloscopes, amplifiers, circuit board materials, etc. that I don't know what they are/or are worth, or how to go about selling. Does anyone have any suggestions other than listing everything individually (there is a lot) on OKorder or CraigsList? I'm leaning towards hiring someone to come in and auction it all off for me, but need suggestions.Thanks!
Perhaps contacting the nearest community college electronics instructor or amateur radio club president will yield some knowledgeable individual.
Q:I mean for SF6 (gas) containers used to refill electrical quipment such as circuit breakers, must the container be discharged completely, or is it possible to retain a partial amount of SF6 gas in the container for future refilling activities? Any electrical experts out there, would really appreciate your assistance with this. Thanks!
Check the MSDS sheet for safe transport. Is a seal broken before use? Do the containers get returned after use or are they discarded (how?). Your local power company must have info because they use this stuff at switching stations.
Q:I am doing a project on electronic baton.I want it to look exactly like baton used by professional orchestra conductor.I stored the electronic components inside the handle of the baton.The problem is the space is very limited.The maximum diameter of the handle only about 18 mm.I need to choose a battery that also stored inside the handle.I want the battery that could work for long time.However what I can see the coin battery that is small only have small energy in it.It will only last for less than 1 hour.It is not good for new product.What can I do to maximize amount of energy so baton can work for longer time? ideally 10+hours or minimum of 5 hours and can fit inside small handle.I dont want to use external power cable.Hope you guys can help me.Really appreciated all of your helps.
Lithium batteries tend to offer best size to power ratio right now. They are available in rechargeable and disposable. Take a trip to Walmart bearing in mind you may find something you like that is designed to go into something else such as a replacement battery for a cell phone or camera etc.
Q:I am using a piece of equipment that uses plastics hoses to connect three metal pieces (a vacuum pump, a separation chamber, and a rotating sieve). When I touch each of these to remove material I am collecting after use, I get a small shock. What can I do to prevent this?Also, there is a loose, partially exposed wire. What can I do about this? As far as I know, it has no function.
Even if your house has code-approved grounded wiring, you still can get a shock by touching exposed wires or metal that is in contact with them. This rarely happens intentionally. It is more likely to be the result of handling a poorly insulated appliance, or one with a loose internal connection, under conditions that give electricity a path to ground through your body. To prevent this, avoid using old appliances, especially those with loose connections, and install ground fault interrupting (GFI) outlets in the bathroom, kitchen, outdoors and any location where wet conditions increase the risk of unintentional grounding. If your house has carpeting, it is almost impossible to avoid static shocks, particularly on dry days. The movement of your feet on the carpet creates a buildup of static electricity as electrons from the carpet move from the carpet into your body and electrically energize it. When you touch any metal surface, like a doorknob, you create a circuit that allows the electrons to flow, and you get a shock. While uncomfortable, shocks from static electricity are normal. You can reduce their severity by frequently touching metal objects to ground yourself before the buildup of electricity in your body becomes too large.

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