• XLPE Copper/Insulated/Copper/Rubber Cable System 1
  • XLPE Copper/Insulated/Copper/Rubber Cable System 2
  • XLPE Copper/Insulated/Copper/Rubber Cable System 3
  • XLPE Copper/Insulated/Copper/Rubber Cable System 4
XLPE Copper/Insulated/Copper/Rubber Cable

XLPE Copper/Insulated/Copper/Rubber Cable

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Loading Port:
China main port
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TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
1000 m
Supply Capability:
20000 m/month

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XLPE Copper/Insulated/Copper/Rubber Cable

 

Specifications

1 IEC, ASTM, DIN, BS standard  
2 ISO,CCC,CB certification  
3 Response within 12 hours  
4 Free Sample  
5 Factory direct sale

POWER CABLE

XLPE INSULATED POWER CABLE

COPPER(ALUMINMU)CONDUCTOR XLPE INSULATED PVC SHEATHED POWER CABLE RATED VOLTAGE UP TO 35KV

 

Brief introduction about XLPE Insulated Power cable 

 Cross-linked polyethylene insulated power cable do not only has excellent electric, mechanical proper-ties,but also has powerful resistance against chemical corrosion,heat resistance and environmental stress resistance. Its structure is simple,the long period operating temperature is +90°C. It is convenient to use and can be laid with no restriction of different level.

 

APPLICATION

 XLPE insulated power cables has a number of advantages over paper insulated and PVC insulated cable.XLPE cable has high electric strength, mechanical strength,high-ageing resisting,environmental stress resisting anti-chemical corrossion,and it is simple construction, using convenient and higher operating of long term temperature. It can be laid with no drop restriction.

 Various of flame-retardant and non-flame retardant XLPE cable can be manufactured with three technology(peroxide,silance and irradiation crosslinking). The flame-retardant cable covers all kinds of low-smoke low-halogen,low-smoke halogen free,and non-smoke nonhalogenated and three slasses of A,B,C.

We can produce the cables as per GN, IEC,BS,VDE, AS/NZS,ICEA,JIS.

 

TYPE

 VOLTAGE

No.of cores

0.6/1kV

6/6kV, 6/10kV

8.7/15kV, 12/20kV, 18/30kV

19/33kV, 26/35kV

Mm²

COPPER/XLPE/PVC

1

1.5~800

25~800

35~1200

50~1200

AL/XLPE/PVC

2.5~1000

25~1000

35~1200

50~1200

COPPER/XLPE/SWA (STA,AWA)/PVC

10~1000

25~1000

35~1200

50~1200

COPPER/XLPE/PVC

3

1.5~400

25~400

35~400

50~400

AL/XLPE/PVC

2.5~400

25~400

35~400

50~400

AOPPER/XLPE/AWA (STA)/PVC

4~400

25~400

35~400

50~400

 FAQ

Q: Why should you choose us:

A: 1. More than 10 years experience in this industry
2. 100,000 tons exporting per month
3. Professional foreign trade tea
4. OEM&ODM capacity
5. High quality assured & competitive price
6. Try our best to meet your needs & save your budget
7. Very popular in Southeast Asia, Africa, Mid-East and South America etc.
8. VIP membership system, first time customers and long-term cooperation customers can get extra discount on some products.

 

Picture

XLPE Copper/Insulated/Copper/Rubber Cable

 

Q:lost the original cable at a gig, but I have another cable. the outlet on the Behringer guitar amp reads quot;Use only with 250V fuse, but right above the outlet it reads 220-240 with a upside down triangle next to it (not sure if this represents volts or not...I know obviously V stands for volts, but this is a upside down solid triangle.)My power cable/cord that i found reads 10A 250VI know i should probably purchase one direct from the manufacture, but that is not possible right now. I have a gig coming up this weekend.thanks for any help.I also mention the original power cord was a two prong (that went into the outlet) - the one i might use is a 3 prong. will this still be safe? It does fit into the back of the amp perfectly.
Assuming you're in a place where the outlets provide 220 to 240 volts, it's fine. The 250 volts on the power cord just means it's good for *up to* that.
Q:When the tv repair company comes out do they take your tv power cable or have there own one for tv
All TV repair people have all the power cables they could need. BUT... if they think that your fault could simply be a fault in your cable, then they may take it with them, though they would be more likely to try swapping it on your premises before removing the set.
Q:Its on power and one is in a pc monitor and one is lying on the ground. Will the electricity go through the cable that is not connected and lying on the ground? is this safe to touch with hands or shoes?
The voltages and amperages going through the Monitor Cables are too low to be of any concern. If you actually stuck your tongue into a live one you'll get a jolt that may be painful...but it's not going to kill you. Touching it with your fingers won't do anything. However it might not be a bad idea to cover it with a little electrician's tape (don't go crazy) to keep it from picking up anything that could jam or bend the pins.
Q:I just finished building my shed, I put a 1 1/2 inch conduit under the shed coming up into the corner. I am now about to dig the 65 foot trench back to the house. I need to run power, not a problem. I want to run a phone line, a network cable, and a cable wire for my satellite. I say shed but it is 12 by 20 feet with an attic. Can I run these additional lines in with the power. I was thinking about using a run of Shielded cables for the network and one for the phone. For the cable some heavy duty quot;I don't know what thoughquot;. Will the power lines mess the data up on them? What will work for the three if any. If I need to I could run them in a new conduit, but that is not cheap!
What I've read here is pretty good. However, having the same situation in front of me for next year (I'm restoring a Victorian era property outside of Toronto, ON- house now, garage next year), my design made me start wondering about the same thing. You don't really need a wire phone line in 2010 do you? Use a cordless if it is in range. Otherwise, use network cable for the phone line as the electrical shielding and twisted pair nature of it is superior. For your satellite cable, direct burial is a great option and saves you running that second conduit. I took a look at what the local cable operator does and its rather simple. They just bury the direct burial line literally inches from the surface. If its good enough for them...... For your data and network cabling...Do you picture yourself surfing the net in the shed? Use a WiFi signal. I thought of the broadband needs of a seperate garage building and found that (for my IP security camera mounted on the garage) that a WiFi signal was plenty! I'm talking a hi definition (I only use the best for security cams) colour full motion bandwidth intensive camera here. WiFi is carrying it glitch free.
Q:Only answer if you know it works with my kind of laptop, because If I order it and it isnt, i may have to end you. :D. I mean it in a nice way.
If you don't already have an OKorder account, you should get one - it opens up a whole world of bargains. Just make sure you buy from a seller with a 99% or better rating and over 100 sales. I have never had any problem as long as I have followed those guidelines. Good luck!
Q:Yjv22 what is the core of the cable? Copper core or aluminum core?
sure. Take the ground pipe is to be from the floor under the brick. But the late completion of the drawing to be accurate, so that the next time to repair the line can not find the location. Want to answer to help you.
Q:Need the cable you plug into your outlet and it's plugged into the back of your power supply on your computer. My computer is for gaming and is very modern so I need one that wont melt and can handle everything. Anyone know of anywebsites that I can order a high quality one from?
all you need is a bog standard power lead. The power unsit runs off mains voltages so a 500W supply uses only 2A (ish) (if on a 220V system) and 4A if on 110 (approx)
Q:I have recently purchased a SAPPHIRE 100228L Radeon HD 3850 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 AGP 4X/8X HDCP Ready Video Card.
should have come with a power cable. sometimes these are hidden in a compartment inside the box. take all the inner cardboard out. It would be pretty unusual for one of these cards to ship without the cable.
Q:I recently got YLOD on my ps3 (60g fat) system ,sent it away ,got it back with a new mainboard ,it worked for about 2 days and it cut out (red lights blinking) once again i sent it away ,got it back and it cut out within a few hours (red lights blinking again ) ,so one last repair i sent it off to same shop ,and once again it worked for about a week then cut out on me again ! ,is there any possibility its my power cable to my ps3 thats doing this ?
It's simple: Your PS3's hardware was too damaged for it to be repaired, or the repair shop has no idea what they are doing. Not all PS3's can be effectively repaired. And even if someone gets them working temporarily (as in your case) they can shut down again almost immediately. See if you can get a refund or at least a partial refund. You need to give up on that PS3. It's beyond repair.
Q:A power cable of copper is stretched straight between two fixed towers. If the temperature decreases, the cable tends to contract; the amount of contraction for a free copper cable is 0.0017% per degree celsius. Show that the stretched cable will snap if its temperature decreases by 128°C.Ignore the weight of the cable and assume Hooke's law is obeyed until the cable breaks. Young's modulus for copper is 11.0 x 10^10 N/m^2 and the ultimate tensile strength of copper is 2.4 x 10^8 N/m^2.
Change in length=(coefficient of expansion)(original length)(change T)= (.0017)(chose your favoret length, I chose 100)( -128 because T is decreeing)=-21.76 Strain = (change in length)/(original length)= 21.76/100= .2176Pa (for simplicity's sake I dropped the negative, rember the wire is in tension) Stress = (youngs modulus)(strain)= (11?10^10)(.2176)= 2.3936?10^10 Pa The UTS (2.4?10^8)<(2.39?10^10) so there is definitely necking and because of the difference most likely there was failure long ago.

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