Vermiculite Board for Fire Door System 1

Vermiculite Board for Fire Door System 2

Vermiculite Board for Fire Door

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1000 pc

Supply Capability:: 200000 pc/month

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Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:	in bulk or plywood pallets
Delivery Detail:	15 days after your depoist

Specifications

vermiculite board for fireproof
model size:1220*2440mm
Thickness: 3-25mm

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We manufacture both magnesium oxide wall panel for aluminum composite wall panel and it's machine,

with over 28years history. We supply machines for many manufacturers in China domestic and world;

so actually we know the price level and how to produce a good board. Will surely provide the most competitive price.

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You will surely expand your market in the future. Just like many of our machinery clients, you will win with our magnesium oxide wall panel firstly;

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pictures for vermiculite board for fireproof

Composition of MgO Board:

“An innovative mineral based, environmentally friendly “green” building material comprised of:”

MGO 70% MgCL2 10% Fiberglass 15% Perlite(Filier) 5%

Raw Material:

Magnesium oxide(MGO), magnesium chloride, perlite, Wood dust, fiberglass mesh, non-woven cloth etc.

Q: My friend suprised me with a tarantual today as I‘ve always wanted one but I have no idea what to put in it‘s tank.All I know is to feed it 2 crickets a day and to wear goggles for the first week of having it incase it‘s nervous and spits hairs. That‘s all I‘ve been told.So I could do with advice on what to put in the tank and any other useful info about tarantulas i‘ll need to know.: I use organic top soil for substrate. Some of mine hide on a piece of pipe, broken flower pot, or whatever i had lying around when i set up the cage. I take the hide out of the burrowing species cage once they dig their burrow so it is easier to spot uneaten prey. I feed mostly roaches, but every once in a while get crickets for variety. If you decide to breed your own food i recommend Dubai roaches. They don't stink, can't climb smooth surfaces or fly, and have live birth (no work for you). I feed my Ts an appropriate size insect once a week. Not all tarantulas kick hairs. Chances are you got a rose hair (they do kick). I believe it is new world Ts that kick hairs, and old world don't. However the ones without the hairs tend to be very aggressive. I can hold my red hair and pinktoe. The baboons and cobalt are mean as all get out. I don't provide a water dish for my T's. The ones that like humidity get misted 1-2x a week. The others get all the necessary water from their food. Make sure any feeder insects are gut loaded, butcalciumm and vitamin dusting isunnecessaryy. They pretty much suck the juices out and leave the shell so they won't benifit from it anyway

Q: How do you grow your vermiculite? Do you place it at the top or bottom of the soil, or mixing?: The general clay soils rich in rot are the following:Leaf soilThis soil is usually grown by decaying and fermented leaves and weeds for a long time. We can find this kind of soil under the mountain woods.Garden soilIt's the soil in the garden. The content of organic matter in garden soil is much, and basically belongs to composite soil. It is relatively loose and drainage well. It is ideal for planting soil.Pond sludgeAs the name suggests, is the bottom of the pond mud pond sludge. The organic matter content of this mud is high, and its disadvantages are relatively sticky. It should be mixed with garden soil or rotten leaf soil for reuse.

Q: Besides water and soil, are there any other materials that you can use for rooting plants in? I'm doing an experiment so they can be kind of wacky materials.: I prefer adding soil amendments that have an organic content, like leaves, straw, compost, newspapers, lawn clippings, etc.. Perlite seems like an expensive soil additive. I didn't know you could still buy vermiculite, I thought it was mostly banned now because it has asbestos in it?? Well, maybe it's available where you live. Both perlite and vermiculite are/were used in potting soil, where the soil goes through regular cycles of being watered and then drying out. I suspect, though, that when they're in your garden, they're going to fill up with water, and then stay that way. Organic material does the same thing, costs less, and provides nutrition, too. For those reasons, I wouldn't use either perlite or vermiculite in my garden soil. Get some leaves, compost, manure, straw, newspapers, etc., and rototill them in now if you still can, and your garden will be fine by spring.

Q: Which is a better seed starter for growing redwoods, Vermiculite or peat? Which will I get better results with? can I mix them?: for the reason that Eden became on the junction of four rivers i might anticipate it to be an rather fertile river valley. in basic terms 2 of those rivers in time-honored and valuable over grazing and different undesirable practices made Iraq what it rather is without delay, we don't understand the place the different 2 rivers are, so it would desire to be everywhere that the Tigris and Euphrates are. FYI Adam skill guy in historical Aramaic. { (Genesis 25:25 the 1st to return out became pink, and his total physique became like a bushy garment; so as that they named him Esau. [ Esau would mean bushy ; he became called Edom, meaning pink. ] Genesis 25:30 He mentioned to Jacob, rapid, enable me have a number of that pink stew! i'm famished! (it rather is why he became called Edom. [ Edom skill pink . ] )}

Q: I am using a good lunch bag with the silver Thermos around it for insulation then a tuba where filled with vermiculite And i added some water (moist) and i keep it by the heat lamp but not directly under it and i keep close watch on the Temperature around 85 and the eggs are just covered enough the see parts of them: sounds good but you should keep te temp a little lower in my experience it works best around 83 there are very sensitize so don't think 2* doesn't matter it dose

Q: I was wondering i want to start a garden and i was looking on line to see wha ti am supossed to do but it said you need a sandy faomy soil but my soil is more like clay. is there any way to get my soil ready to sow some seeds soon. I also live in a very isolated area so i can not get to a store more than maybe once a month. any ideas would be great!: Are you sure it is a clay and not just hard packed soil. A soil test will really help. In the US, you county extension service should offer a soil testing service for a reasonable fee. They will make fertilizer recommendations. They also usually have information on gardening that is specific to your area.

Q: Question: How does intraspecific competition affect the growth of individuals in a population?1) what would be the manipulated and responding variable?2) using these materials what kind of procedure could you create to test out the question stated aboveMaterials:Seeds(basil, raddish, grass, lettuce)vermiculite or potting soilflower potsscissorsrulerbalance: Intraspecific Competition Intraspecific competition is a particular form of competition in which members of the same species vie for the same resource in an ecosystem (e.g. food, light, nutrients, space). This can be contrasted with interspecific competition, in which different species compete. For example, two trees of the same species growing close together will compete for light, water and nutrients in the soil. Getting less resources, they will perform more poorly than if they grew by themselves (for example lowered growth rates and fewer seed output). Trees have therefore adapted to grow taller or develop larger root systems through natural selection. Grasshoppers provide an animal example. By eating grass, individual grasshoppers deprive their fellow conspecifics of food. This is an example of exploitation competition, which means that the grasshoppers do not interact directly with each other, but have a negative effect on others' growth and reproduction by their effect on a resource (in this case, grass). Here you can plant the seeds and check their growth using a ruler. You can find that they have intraspecific Competition among themselves.

Q: Well my two normals had their first clutches a few week back. Ones due the first of june and the other the 17th of June. I have a couple of questions that i cant seem to find anywhere. First off the first clutch which was a total of 8 large eggs. I wasnt able to catch when they were first laid so the are all stacked together. My concern is when its time for them to hatch the egg on the bottom, will it be able to get out? also is it normal for the eggs to get a slight greyish color where the vermiculite touches them? all the eggs when candled show veins so there all ok yet.My last question is should i slit the eggs or not? and if i should when should i do so?: i would use Vermiculite Fiberglass infused paint to bond with the fiber glass and offer proper heat protection

Q: My snake should be laying any day now. Her nest box has moss in it. Should I incubate in it or should I use vermiculite?: vermiculite

Q: I am a bit confused as to where I put the humidity sensor, on top of the perlite, in the perlite or a few inches from it as obviously the perlite will be moister than the atmosphere. Also how deep do I bury the eggs? I have a herpnurseryII, any tips for sucessful hatching?: Well, I like things simple and care free. I very seldom have to mist a box once I set it up until hatching occurs. I don't just put them into the incubator. I put them into clear plastic lidded tubs with a 3 layer of vermiculite. Wet the vermiculite. Squeeze out all the excess water so you have a snowball in your fist. Open your hand and it should hold its shape. Touch it with a finger on the other hand and it should crumble/fall part easily. That's moist enough. Beginners usually make the mistake of keeping the hatching medium too moist. I used to put a small hole in the container top until I lost a few eggs to friggin #%#%#%#$% (censored) fruit fly maggots a few years ago. Now I don't vent the container or tops at all. I open them for a moment every 1-2 wk. to circulate fresh air (they aren't airtight to begin with and I'm not sure that's even necessary). I don't like to bother my eggs. I do as little as possible to them. I don't remove one unless it molds. I never bury an egg. I make a depression with my fingertip about 1/2 as deep as the egg is wide and place it into the depression, Sharpie mark up, then firm the medium snug to the egg, leaving 1/2 the egg exposed. I have two humidity meters in the box but these days, I never even look at them anymore. I can tell from placing a fingertip to the medium if it needs a bit more moisture. If you do need to add some, use a spray bottle and lightly mist the sides (not the eggs), to permit the water to drip down into the medium. It doesn't take much to bring the humidity back up. You don't want to see moisture built up and dripping from the lid - this can drown your embryos. If you feel better using the probe, then you'll want to sit it inside the container, barely seated into the medium long ways. I highly recommend using covered containers. Good luck, and enjoy your new babies.

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