• Sranded aluminum conductor pvc insulated building wire System 1
  • Sranded aluminum conductor pvc insulated building wire System 2
Sranded aluminum conductor pvc insulated building wire

Sranded aluminum conductor pvc insulated building wire

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
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Supply Capability:
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Quick Details

  • Place of Origin: Henan, China (Mainland)


  • Insulation Material:
    PVCModel Number:
    BLV

  • Type: Low Voltage

  • Application: Construction

  • Conductor Material: Aluminum

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:wooden drum,rool,iron wooden drum,or as your request
Delivery Detail:within 15 days mainly or as your request

Specifications

Sranded aluminum conductor pvc insulated building wire1.Stranded aluminum conductor
2.Standard: IEC,BS,ASTM,DIN etc.

Sranded aluminum conductor pvc insulated building wire  

PVC insulated electric wire Include following types:

1)      Copper (aluminium) conductor PVC insulated wires (BV)

2)      Copper conductor PVC insulated flexible wires (BVR)

3)      Copper (aluminium) conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed round wires

4)      Copper (aluminium) conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed flat wires

5)      Copper conductor PVC insulated flat and flexible connectors

6)      Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed round and flexible connectors

Size: 0.5-185 mm2

Usage:

PVC insulated electric wire is widely used in the construction of buildings airports, power transportation, urban and rural power network reformation and other main projects.

insualted building wire with follow size and data

Nominal
sectional area
mm 2

Conductor
No/Dia.
mm

Nominal
Insulated thick
mm

Max overall
Dia.
mm

Condcutor
Resistance at
20

Min insulated
resistance at
70MΩ/km

Weight
Kg/km

Cu

Al

Cu

Al

1.5

1/1.38

0.7

3.3

12.1

-

0.011

19.2

-

1.5

7/0.52

0.7

3.5

12.1

-

0.010

20.6

-

2.5

1/1.78

0.8

3.9

7.41

11.8

0.010

30.8

15.0

4

1/2.25

0.8

4.4

4.61

7.39

0.0085

45.5

21.0

6

1/2.76

0.8

4.9

3.08

4.91

0.0070

65.0

29.0

10

7/1.35

1.0

7.0

1.83

3.08

0.0065

110.0

52.0

16

7/1.70

1.0

8.0

1.15

1.91

0.0050

170.0

70.0

25

7/2.14

1.2

10.0

0.727

1.20

0.0050

270.0

110.0

35

7/2.52

1.2

11.5

0.524

0.868

0.0040

364.0

150.0

50

19/1.78

1.4

13.0

0.387

0.641

0.0045

500.0

200.0

70

19/2.14

1.4

15.0

0.268

0.443

0.0035

688.0

269.0

95

19/2.52

1.6

17.5

0.193

0.320

0.0035

953.0

360.0

120

37/2.03

1.6

19.0

0.153

0.253

0.0032

1168.0

449.0

150

37/2.25

1.8

21.0

0.124

0.206

0.0032

1466.0

551.0

185

37/2.52

2.0

32.5

0.099

0.164

0.0032

1808.0

668.0


Q: I pulled, A RUNNING 1974 454 HEI from a 1974!I want to start it on my engine stand so I can get a compression check.Please FILL in the blank or change whatever is wrong, w/this outline,Run a hot wire from the battery to the starter and a ground to the block. DONE! Then run a second wire from the power on your cap to the battery. (I take this to mean the Bat + term. on the cap) Then use a wire from the s on the starter to the hot on the starter (THIS IS WHERE I HAVE MY START TRIGGER WIRED IN.) and it will crank over and fire up.I have 12 vdc at the BAT+ but still no spark, WHAT AM I DOING WRONG.??????????THANKS FOR THE HELP.The coil in the cap is good and I have gas.
ok if the motor cranks over then you are half way there. the - side of the battery is connected to the block. the + is going to the top terminal on the starter, you cross the big terminal with the inside terminal on the starter and it cranks over. now with another wire from the + side of the battery going to the bat terminal on the distributor cap, that should give you spark. cap and rotor are new, then the only other thing it could be is the module. try another distributor. try a spark plug in your spark plug wires and ground it to the - side of the battery , and crank it over and check for spark. i bet its your module, but check for spark first.
Q: All the other outlets in the room have one black and one white wire. The outlet with 2 is not connected to a switch or anything. Could the extra set of wires be and end run from a different connection? Can I take the extra black and extra white from the bottom tabs of the outlet and extend it behind the kneewall into the hallway and make a new outlet? I have none in the hallway and I've always wanted one there. Thanks.
Pannle box 88 black and white wires 8 outlets The first outlet provides power for the second one. You can only add a second outlet to one that has only two wires running to it. Pannel box 8 (8) new outlet
Q: I have changed lights in my own home many times. I bought a new light for my parents bathroom, but when I put it up I realized they had an electrical outlet on there too. My new light has a black and white wire. Coming from the house it has gray, green, 2 white, black and red. Can I cap off the ones I don't need? Which ones are which? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
It sounds like you disassembled the wires in the junction box and didn't diagram what went where. You now have a real problem in that you don't know, and without being there to analyze your electrical system, none of us here can tell you what went to what. Standard house wiring protocol says that black wires are the hot wire supplying electrical current to something. White wires are supposed to be used as the return/neutral, returning the current back to the circuit breaker or fuse box where they are attached to the ground buss. Normally, protocol says that a green wire [or a TOTALLY BARE wire] is used as a safety grounding conductor, in case the white neutral should get cut open, or disconnected. Other colored wires [the grey and red] are both used as hot wires in 220 volt circuits, and SUGGEST that 220 is SOMEHOW involved in that circuit. What you've got is a potentially deadly nightmare, AND YOU NEED a LICENSED, Professional ELECTRICIAN!!!!!! IF some of the wires were capped off and not connected to any others BEFORE YOU SCREWED the job up, THEN YES, those wires can again be capped off, BUT your question implies that they were NOT capped off before. So if that's the case, they should be connected to where they were before. Again, for safety, and to possibly prevent the house from catching on fire and possibly killing someone, YOU NEED A PROFESSIONAL to get the electrical system restored like it was before!!!!!
Q: I have two side-by-side outlets. One does not work at all. I've checked all the connections and cannot get it to work.I noticed that the adjacent box has a black and white wire connected while the error box only had a red and white wire going to the box. Is this right? When I test the wires going into the box, there is no voltage whatsoever.
Black and Red wires are both hot wires. Black is the standard and most common color for hot wire. When red is used instead of black it has some meaning, like maybe the wire is on a switch. Check all the wall switches in the area to see if any of them activate the outlet.
Q: I need this for homework :(
It's cheaper than silver and conducts electricity almost as well. Jesse Willms
Q: i broke my phone they only way i can fix it is if i know how to reconnect those really paper thin, tape like wires.
If you are talking about an internal ribbon cable, it just slips into the socket evenly. Make sure about the right direction. If you are talking about the external phone line, itside it contains four wires. These can be spliced by color and taped up. Much better to replace the whole wire to the junction.
Q: I had drywall replaced in my kitchen ceiling behind a light fixture due to some water damage. The worker disconnected the wires from the light fixture and took it down without labeling anything. I have no idea how to reconnect the wires. In the ceiling there are two white wires that are twisted. Then there is a black wire and a white wire that are twisted together. On the light fixture itself, there are two white wires and two black wires all separate. What connects to what? Please help if you are experienced with this sort of thing. Thanks. I don't want to ruin the light or shock myself.
I don't know exactly as far as the wiring, but please go flip off the switch for the kitchen in your circuit breaker before attempting to rewire the light :). No shockyshocky that way.
Q: A white substance, I'm now worried that this is asbestos, Hope someone can tell me wether it is used in electrical wire, I.E copper based. Please help.
Asbestos was once used as a heat insulator, not electrical. It is doubtful if it is asbestos, as it is not terribly pliable to be inside wiring.
Q: I built a 30x30 workshop and have a few electrical questions.What amp size service panel will I need?Will have 8 120v receptacles and do they all need separate 20 amp breakers with #12 wire?Will have 2 240v receptacles, air compressor and a stick welder, what size wire and circuit breakers for those two components?Will have 8 fluorescent lights with 54w bulbs, How many lights can be on the same 15amp circuit with #14 wire?
In Canada and the USA 15 amp circuits are the norm wired with # 14 cable unless the runs are very long. Up to 12 outlets can be place on one circuit but for a workshop, I would sugest no more the 4 or 5 per circuit. If you require a 20 amp circuit, it should be a dedicated circuit with the proper 20 amp receptacle. A separate 15 amp circuit for your lighting is smart in case you trip a breaker with one or more of your shop tools; you will still have lighting. The welder will require a dedicated 240 volt, 60 amp circuit Your air compressor will also require a dedicated 240 volt circuit sized accordingly to the power demand of the compressor motor. Just from what you have listed, I would suggest at least an 100 amp 240/120 volt load centre. This will give you extra room for fans, heating, etc.
Q: As we know the earth wire takes no current or just a small amount of leakages current, why we should use same size as live or neutral wire in a power system??
Normally the earth wire carries small current leakages only. However in some accidents like electric motor failurs in a refrigerator or in other big motors in the factory,higher currents may leak. Therefore, the ground wires are wired one size smaller than the normal wire used for the electrical equipment to avoid burning of wire insulation.

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