• Solar Panel Monocrystalline Sillicon Wholesale with Cheap Price on Sale System 1
  • Solar Panel Monocrystalline Sillicon Wholesale with Cheap Price on Sale System 2
  • Solar Panel Monocrystalline Sillicon Wholesale with Cheap Price on Sale System 3
  • Solar Panel Monocrystalline Sillicon Wholesale with Cheap Price on Sale System 4
  • Solar Panel Monocrystalline Sillicon Wholesale with Cheap Price on Sale System 5
Solar Panel Monocrystalline Sillicon Wholesale with Cheap Price on Sale

Solar Panel Monocrystalline Sillicon Wholesale with Cheap Price on Sale

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
50 watt
Supply Capability:
4000 watt/month

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Quality and Safety

1. Rigorous quality control meets the highest international standards.

2. High-transmissivity low-iron tempered glass, strong aluminium frame.

3.. IS09001/14001/CE/TUV/UL  

 

Warranties

1. 10 years limited product warranty

2. 15 years at 90% of the minimal rated power output

3. 25 years at 80% of the minimal rated power output

 

Technical date :

ITEM NO.:

Poly 156*156 cell ,60pcs . Power range from 230Wp-260Wp

Maximum Power(W)

 230

235

240

245

250

 255

 260

Optimum Power Voltage(Vmp)

 29.4

29.5

29.7

30.1

30.3

 30.5

30.7

Optimum Operatige Current(Imp)

 7.83

7.97

8.08

8.14

8.25

 8.37

 8.48

Open Circuit Voltage(Voc)

 36.7

36.8

36.9

37.1

37.3

 37.5

 37.7

Short Circuit Current(Isc)

 8.52

8.59

8.62

8.65

8.69

8.73 

 8.78

Solar Cell:

156*156 Poly

Number of Cell(pcs)

6*10

Brand Name of Solar Cells

JA Cell, Bluesun Cell

Size of Module(mm)

1650*992*40/45/50

Cable & Connector Type

Pass the TUV Certificate

Frame(Material Corners,etc.)

Aluminium-alloy

Back sheet

TPT

Weight Per Piece(KG)

19.5KG

FF (%)

70-76%

Junction Box Type

Pass the TUV Certificate

Tolerance Wattage(e.g.+/-5%)

±3%, or 0-3%

Front Glass Thickness(mm)

3.2

Temperature Coefficients of Isc(%)

+0.04

Temperature Coefficients of Voc(%)

-0.38

Temperature Coefficients of Pm(%)

-0.47

Temperature Coefficients of Im(%)

+0.04

Temperature Coefficients of Vm(%)

-0.38

Temperature Range

 -40°C to +85°C

Surface Maximum Load Capacity

5400Pa

Allowable Hail Load

23m/s ,7.53g

Bypass Diode Rating(A)

12

Warranty

90% of 10 years, 80% of 25 years.

Standard Test Conditions

AM1.5   1000W/ 25 +/-2°C

Packing

 carton or pallet

1*20'

14 Pallets / 316pcs

1*40'STD

25 Pallets / 700pcs

Solar Panel Monocrystalline Sillicon Wholesale with Cheap Price on Sale

Solar Panel Monocrystalline Sillicon Wholesale with Cheap Price on Sale

Solar Panel Monocrystalline Sillicon Wholesale with Cheap Price on Sale

Solar Panel Monocrystalline Sillicon Wholesale with Cheap Price on Sale

Solar Panel Monocrystalline Sillicon Wholesale with Cheap Price on Sale

Solar Panel Monocrystalline Sillicon Wholesale with Cheap Price on Sale

Solar Panel Monocrystalline Sillicon Wholesale with Cheap Price on Sale


FAQ

 

Why choose YuanChan Solar?

  1. Advanced technology, professional manufacture, and excellent quality.

  2. 100% A grade cells with ±3% power tolerance range.

  3. High module conversion efficiency, low module price

  4. Anti-reflective and high viscous EVA

  5. High light transmission Anti-reflective glass

  6. 10-12 years product warranty, 25 years limited power warranty.

  7. Strong productive ability and quick delivery.

 


Q:Hi, I've been trying to google-educate myself but I want to make sure of what I'm doing and ask for some expert advice, if we've any in the audience. :) I have a battery case that takes two AA batteries (energizer if that matters), I've checked on my voltmeter and I believe it gives a DC current of 3.20v (if that's way off I may be using my voltmeter incorrectly) And the LEDs I have are 5mm Nexxtech LEDs, which from searching I've found this information on them: 5mm (T1 3/4): Forward Voltage 2.2 V, Forward Current 10 mA (max 15 mA).Now I want to hook up 4 LEDs to this battery pack, to be continuously illuminated. I have also got a pack of 1/4 watt 5% resistors. On the back of the pack it lists a whole slew of specs, apparently there are two of each type, but I'm not sure what the numbers mean, or how to differentiate which resistor is which. (see the summary of
The battery pack you have is +3.2 volts, which is correct since *unloaded* batteries are typically 1.65V and are 1.5V when loaded down. Now in order to hook up (4) LEDs with a (minimum) forward voltage of 2.2V, you will need 4 * 2.2V 8.8V (minimum) as a voltage source. Therefore you would need (3) dual AA battery packs that are connected in series to get 9.6V to work properly. Next you will need to control the current thru each of the LEDs that are also connected in series. The resistor would be need to be the voltage divided by the current from Ohm's Law as follows R V / I (9.6V - 8.8V) / 10mA 0.8V / 0.010A 80 ohms With this solution you can use (1) switch to turn off all the LEDs. An alternate way to power the LEDs is when each of the (4) LEDs are in parallel to the single 3.2V source. Since the voltage drop of each LED is 2.2V, the resistor for each LED would be R V / I (3.2V - 2.2V) / 10mA 1.0V / 0.010A 100 ohms Now you would need a switch to the batteries that is in series will all (4) LEDs that are in parallel to each other with their separate 100 ohm resistor. Notice that the batteries will not last as long with the LEDs in parallel as they would with the LEDs in series. The series combination is more efficient, but requires a higher voltage. LEDs do not give off heat, but the resistor might. However, the current of 10mA is not enough to create any danger.
Q:hey guys i was changing my Xbox controllers batteries and i got up pull the case for my batters out and it slipped out my had and flew on the floor it broke into two pieces and it still works but it wont stay stuck together in my controller the the battery pack that is and it is not a plug and play it is just a regular battery pack you put batteries in. anyway i can make them stay together
tape it
Q:I recently purchased an Xbox 360 and I got an extra controller as well its an Xbox brand Blue. I bought 2 Nyko charge kits (power kit, they are play and charge) as they were really cheap $10! I plugged one into the blue and one into the white controller, the blue one charges everything fine but the white one doesn't seem to do anything, when I plug in the cable the light on the cable flashes Orange once and then no light comes out of the LED (i assume orange is a mixture of the red and green together). If i switch the cable and or battery to the blue controller it charges fine, but switching the blue battery to the white controller does the same thing as before. Most of the time I can play with everything plugged in, or I can charge the battery in the blue controller and then use it on the white controller. Has anyone run into this problem? I have tried connecting it (as in wireless connection, and the charging cable) multiple times and nothing seems to charge w/ the white.
try the regular batteries in the White one and see if it works (batteries should come with the controllers)
Q:do i have to buy the battery pack separately? and is there another way to charge the battery pack without a cable?
I'm assuming you mean for the controller, since I'm not aware of any battery pack for the actual 360 Slim. And no, it doesn't. If you want the rechargeable battery for the controller, you have to buy it separately. There is also a docking station that will charge one or more controllers at once but again, that's a separate purchase.
Q:I have an HP laptop and I can charge it to 100% battery and within 15 minutes the battery is dead. Do you think it's something I'm doing or is it the laptop?
You can get the battery checked but it is most likely a dud - Replace it - But see if it can be checked first -
Q:I have one of those sealed battery/jumpstart boxes that I use to jumpstart a car when the battery dies. This is what I normally do to jumpstart a battery.1) I plug the batterypack into a wall outlet, let it charge overnight.2)The jumpstart box has a red and black clamp that I place on each terminal of the battery.3) The jumpstart box has a dial that once everything is clamped onto the battery, I turn the dial to jumpstart and then start the car.4) After car is started, I turn the dial off, remove the clamps from the battery and Im done.My QUESTION is as follows. I have been working on my car for over a month and the battery has been out of the car. At this stage, Im almost positive that the battery will almost if not completely dead.Is it ok for the car battery to remove it from the car completely, hook up the clamps to it from the jumpstart box, turn the dial over to jumpstart and just let the battery charge?If Yes, how long should i leave them on.ty
you need to install the battery, then jump it and take the car out if the battery is still good they charge themselves as you drive.
Q:I bought the canon 60d but I don't want to have to buy another battery pack, any suggestions?
Try it. If they are exactly the same yes. Canon changes battery pack shape from time to time because of the various configurations inside the camera. The voltage should be the same but the physical size and shape may be different. I have a Rebel XS and an eos t1i, they take the same battery but the 50 60, you'll have to read the specs or just try it.
Q:Here are links to pictures of my Worx Battery (18V 1.7Ah) and its accompanying charger unit. The battery is for the Worx 10-inch 18V Cordless Grass Trimmer
You could do what a lot of radio control guys do and build yourself a simple bulb dis-charger. I don't know where you can find bulbs that can handle 18 volts. I would think most automotive bulbs would burn out @ 18 volts, but it doesn't hurt to try. You need to remember that the bulbs will get hot. I have seen way better examples of a bulb dis-charger, but this will get you started.
Q:i recently bought a laptop and i was instructed that the initial charging time for the battery should be 8 hurs, but there are some people to say that such is a thing of the past and li ions no longer need that long of an initial charging time.
For the initial charge you need to charge it for 8-12 hrs. Then each time you charge it it will be fully charged in about an hour. The charge last a long time and the battery last a long time.
Q:I own a 2 year old (i think 2[could be 1 1/2]) and the battery life should be 1 1/2 hours, but over time that has gone to 9 min without being plugged into the wall. Is the battery weakening, or the computer? Will a new battery pack solve this problem? Or will I have to have it plugged in 24/7?
unless other users with the same model have similar proble,ms (use google search to find qosmio topic forums), the battery is usually the first to go out on a laptop, since the expected lifespan is a few thousand charges. go ahead and buy a MATCHING battery for a laptop. if it doesnt fix the problem then its the computer's issue. if it is the computer, then more than likely you can return the battery- the sooner the better- to get your money back. if youre not THAT attached to the computer if you dont want to deal with the issue, just buy an external drive for 60$, back up all the files you want to keep, and get a new laptop thats just as good or better for 700$ My personal advice: 1) try a new battery first, because those laptops are expensive! 2) never get a laptop repaired- if it breaks by itself, its bound to break again 3) true, you should love and care for your laptop- but dont hesitate to get a new one if it doesnt love you back!

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