• Polished Porcelain Tile Super White TT36058 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Super White TT36058 System 2
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Super White TT36058 System 3
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Super White TT36058 System 4
Polished Porcelain Tile Super White TT36058

Polished Porcelain Tile Super White TT36058

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1382.4
Supply Capability:
10000 m²/month

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Product Description:

Primary Competitive Advantages Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046 :

 

First choice,top grade.

Water absorption:<0.1%.< p="">

Delivery Time:15~25 days after deposit.

Certicate: CE,ISO9001,Soncap,etc.

Competitive price and good quality

Usage— Suitable for home, high grade office buildings, high-grade hotel, airport, shopping mall,

deluxe clubs floor and wall tiles etc.

 

This series of products in addition to good wear resistance with ultrafine tiles, flexural strength,

and low water absorption, the appearance of the product, due to be fired into a crystal frit, so

three-dimensional effectprominent, white the texture clear, natural, delicate harmony and balance without duplication, with impeccable decorative effect, close to natural stone.              

 

Technical characteristics:

 

 

Adopt international advanced ceramic cloth exquisite processing technology, selected high

 

quality pure raw materials, on the product body, with moist and gorgeous color, microcomputer

 

total precision control, multiple temperature control forming technology create gorgeous texture

 

hd grain boundary, bottom dense embryo thicker, pure texture, deduces the natural stone material through the external environment and the geological characteristics and the dynamic form of change,

 

also make products with high hardness, high gloss, low water absorption, strong dirt resistance, easy

 

to clean, etc excellent characteristic

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

       For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl




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Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046 Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046



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Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046


Product Certificates :


Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046


Packing Details  :



Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046


FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs. 


Q:There was actually only a tub there and no shower, so the walls are all plaster. I know that before I tile I need a different backerboard, meaning the plaster goes at least to a point. Any hints, tips, directions, and suggestions on how to do the job?
You dont necessarily need to remove the plaster, but i would recommend removing it. cut the plaster out to half inch short of where you are going to tile to, so that the tile will lap onto the plaster a little. this will get rid of any patching, painting, ect. In the place of the removed plaster, install half inch cement fiberboard, costs around $10 per 3ftX5ft sheet. install with screws every 8 inches on each stud. use mesh tape in joints of fiberboard and float the joints with thinset. i would also recommend using a sealer that is specifically designed for cement fiber board under tile in the shower. dont remember the name off hand, but you can roll or brush it on and it turns bright red when it is dry. then use ceramic tile adhesive to set the tile on the walls. be sure to seal the grout joints in the tile after the grout has set for 3 or 4 days. 2 coats of sealer recommended. you can tell the sealer is working if you put a drop of water on the grout joint after the sealer has had at least 24 hours to dry, if the drop of water stays in a small bead shape then the sealer is doing its job, if the water drop soaks into the grout and darkens it, then the grout needs another coat of sealer. dont know if you are tileing the floor of the shower or using a shower pan , but that is a whole nother issue. any questions email me
Q:i need to cut a hole in ceramic floor tile. i have tried many things such as dremel with different ceramic tile cutting attachments and a carbide hole saw.what should i try next?
Grinds that carbide right off the bit, doesn't it? One of the previous posts has one technique, that being, drill a small hole in the tile (carbide, diamond-tip) at a slow speed with some sort of lubricant such as water (also cools the bit, but don't electrocute yourself) on the tile. Then you would thread the carbide grit hacksaw blade through the hole and hook up a hacksaw frame and cut away - - slowly. Then the tile will usually break when you are almost done. There are tile hole saw blades made, but they are not cheap, as they wear out relatively quickly. They will work up to a few inch diameter size. If it's any bigger than that, you'll probably want to find someone with a water-jet machine, like a countertop fabricator - person. A water-jet cuts just like it sounds - with water. It'll cut stone up to several inches thick. Hope that helps
Q:I‘ve seen on many different DIY shows that you can get used tiles that are still in good condition (from a certain place, I just can‘t seem to remember the word) to use in your projects.
Most tile stores throw out tiles every week. They throw out sample boards and broken tiles and generally you can go dumpster diving and pick up quite a few. Some stores will give them to you if you ask. I used to work at a tile store and we threw out tons of tiles all the time. The large stores like Home Depot sometimes have rules that they won't give anything broken away or even sell it but it's worth asking because they're all different. You may be able to find a Habitat Re-Store that has some as well. When they tear out old houses they often recycle rather than toss the items.
Q:Can I also use thin set to grout my tiles on counter? I‘m using white glazed ceramic tiles 4x4. If not what should I use? Please help
I used thin set when I did mine and it was fine. Make sure to use a cutting board when working with knives; most ceramic tiles can scratch. I use a clean glass- like pyrex- so the tiles are visible. Don't forget to seal the grout- read the package directions for how long to wait.
Q:My new home has a kitchen with glazed ceramic tiles covering most of the walls.The colour is basically honey brown, but there‘s a hideous purple border (in the same tile size shape) running horizontally vertically all over the place - I‘d say that 20% of the tiles are this colour.I want to reduce all the tiles to one (new) colour.Two guys (both pros) have this to say:GUY 1: Cheapest solution (and least noisy/disruptive) is to use a ‘glass enamel paint‘ over the tiles. I went online and found several manufacturers of this stuff.GUY 2: Scoffed at this and said there was no other way than retiling the whole kitchen.Guy 1 is adamant that it can be done, and the job will last if enough care is taken in preparing the surface.Is he right?Has anyone tried this ‘re-enamelling‘ technique, and were the results OK?Thanks!
Just my 2 cents. A couple of months ago I saw a bathroom with painted tile and it looked really different. It looked really cheap. I think you would be disappointed if you spent the time and money to paint the tiles.
Q:Two tiles are randomly chosen one at a time and placed in the order in which they were chosen. Determine the probability that the tiles are:i.COii.Both vowels
PART 1: On the first draw, you have 1 desired outcome (C) out of 7 possible letters. P(first letter is C) = 1/7 On the second draw, you have 1 desired outcome (O) out of *6* remaining letters. P(second letter is O) = 1/6 The combined probability is the product: 1/7 x 1/6 = 1/42 The other way to figure this out is to count the total possible outcomes. You have 7 tiles that could be picked for the first tile and 6 tiles that could be picked for the second tile. That's a total of 42 outcomes. Of these only 1 is the outcome of CO. P(CO) = 1/42 PART 2: On the first draw, there are 3 vowels out of 7 possible tiles P(first is a vowel) = 3/7 On the second draw, there are 2 vowels left out of 6 possible tiles. P(second is a vowel) = 2/6 = 1/3 Combined probability is the product: P(both are vowels) = 3/7 x 1/3 = 3/21 = 1/7
Q:My husband and I are building a new home. I would love to put ceramic tiling in my kitchen/dining room (they are combined). Do you think that 14‘X23‘ is too large for tiling? Its a concrete slap, and we will be doing the work ourselves. Any tips would be helpful!! I am looking for tips, suggestions, tools needed, extra supplies, ideas, horror stories, turned out good stories, I will take it all! Thanks so much!
Ceramic tile is a great choice and you can do it yourself if you prepare yourself with a little knowledge and a few tools. My suggestion is to go to Home Depot or any other building supply place and pick up the information they have there on doing tile work. It is usually pretty good and will suggest tools you will need. The biggest problems you will run into is cutting the tile, you might consider renting a water bath cutter. I also suggest you consider going with a smaller tile if it will fit into your plans. Tile that big is not only harder to install neatly but is also more prone to cracking if there is any shifting in your slab. So read the stuff and make sure you have everything on hand before you start and be patient doing the work, especially making the cuts so it fits neatly and you will have a professional looking floor.
Q:I purchased a house that came with a pool. The drawback is that tile is covering the outside of the pool which makes it extremely slippery for my family and guests. What a good solution to this challenge? Lastly, what‘s going to be the best and cheapest alternative to this? Someone mentioned to me that the rubbery mats they use at restaurants works very well, but I need to know the best and cheapest alternative.Suggestions?
The answer is wary simple; you have the lethal combination of two things that almost invariably will result in an accident: slick tiles and water. When a tile surface gets wet, the coefficient of friction decreases. This is a fancy way of saying that wet tiles do not provide the same traction as dry tiles. When a person walks across a floor and suddenly steps on a wet spot, it’s usually too late to prevent the accident. This probably is a good time to state what is obvious: The best time to prevent slip fall accident is before they happen! But is this possible? Yes. Anti Slip Protection Company produces exactly what you need to prevent slipping on slippery swimming pool deck.
Q:Hot tubs are in ground swimming pools are some times surrounded by border of tiles. The square hot tub has a side of length s feet. The tub is surrounded y a border tiles. Each square tiles measure 1 ft.to find the tile you have to use this: 4(s+1) now how is that expression same to (s+2)^2-s^2
(s+2)^2-s^2 would provide the area of the tile border. It is equivalent to the area of the whole hot tub installation, including tile, minus the area of the tub itself. 4(s+1) would be a length in feet, and is not equivalent to any area. The perimeter of the hot tub is 4s, and the perimeter of the whole installation, including the tile is 4(s+2). 4(s+1), ignoring units, would give the number of tiles required for the border, which if multiplied by the area of one tile (1 ft^2) would give the area of the tile border. (s+2)^2-s^2 = s^2 + 4s + 4 - s^2 = 4s + 4 = = 4(s + 1) sq. ft. is also the area of the tile border. So they are the same, if you account for the difference in units.
Q:i have ceramic tiles that are loose hollow underneath
Yes Rob...I would suggest you pull up a piece of tile. If the tile has thinset on it, Then there is no bond to the substrait (the floor/plywood, cementitious backerboard or dry packed mortar). If there is no thinset on the tile, Then the thinset may have set-up before the the tile was put down. Stand where the tile is coming up and roll up on to your toes, with some force! bang down with the heals of your feet. If you feel the floor move/bounce, Then the substrait is faulty. In any event the floor must be taken up. TCNA (Tile Council of North America) Suggests a 19/32 tongue and groove plywood subfloor over joists 16 on center and a underlayment plywood floor of 19/32 with an 1/8 cap between sheets. I know its a lot to take in but if you have another installer redo the floor you should get the TCNA handbook and make sure its done right. It only costs about $9.00 Look up TCNA on line. Also make sure the installer uses a super modified thinset!

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